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Hello,

Let me start off by saying I have no idea how to work on cars, least of all this one. I bought this car from my car savvy dad. It has 240k miles on it. The IMA light is on, the battery pack needs to be replaced. I do grid charge it and disconnect it from the 12V every time I do so, because then it will charge as normal. My dad bought the car about 5 years ago with the IMA light on and bought the charger.

When the car is not charged, and the IMA light is on, I get really bad jerking (the herky jerkies lol) and stuttering when trying to accelerate. It will run with AC like this, but it's a chore and it's like driving a golf cart.

I want to get opinions on whether or not it would be worth it to have someone replace the battery pack and keep the car at how many miles it has now, or try to trade it in.

To be honest, other than oil changes and things like that, I have not done any other maintenance on it in a while. I feel like there are things that can be done to the car that would improve it's performance but I'm not sure where to start.

Also, is it bad to keep disconnecting the 12v every time I'm putting it on grid to achieve the normal state?
I am local to Tampa Bay if there are any enthusiasts locally.

I also drive 50 miles round trip for work so I am worried about the cars reliability when the IMA light is on and I haven't been able to charge it.
TIA
 

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Lots of reading needed here at ICN "Grasshopper". Some of the problems will be easy to fix, other than a new battery. No mechanical skills, then sell it.
 

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Welcome to the forum.
Hello,

Let me start off by saying I have no idea how to work on cars, least of all this one. I bought this car from my car savvy dad. It has 240k miles on it. The IMA light is on, the battery pack needs to be replaced. I do grid charge it and disconnect it from the 12V every time I do so, because then it will charge as normal. My dad bought the car about 5 years ago with the IMA light on and bought the charger.
Have you ever done a discharge on the battery? After 5 years of not doing that once in awhile the battery might be beyond help. But since you have a grid charger it's worth trying to get it to work better.

I want to get opinions on whether or not it would be worth it to have someone replace the battery pack and keep the car at how many miles it has now, or try to trade it in.

To be honest, other than oil changes and things like that, I have not done any other maintenance on it in a while. I feel like there are things that can be done to the car that would improve it's performance but I'm not sure where to start.
You should first try a rejuvenation sequence on the battery before considering getting a new battery. It's possible that you can get some more life out of it.

Also, is it bad to keep disconnecting the 12v every time I'm putting it on grid to achieve the normal state?
It's not necessary to disconnect the 12v battery after a charge or discharge. The car should figure out what to do on it's own.

I am local to Tampa Bay if there are any enthusiasts locally.
There are several forum members around Tampa. Hopefully one of them will chime in.

One forum member extended the life of his battery enough to not only pay for a new battery with the fuel savings but for his car too! :)

I also drive 50 miles round trip for work so I am worried about the cars reliability when the IMA light is on and I haven't been able to charge it.
TIA
These cars love to be a commuter car. Does the battery stay charged when you drive on the open road? If so, you shouldn't get stranded. Your mpg will be reduced while the car is keeping the battery charged if you do a lot of city driving.

I have info on my website that explains how to make your own discharger to see if that might help your battery to work better. It involves two old style 40 watt light bulbs, 2 sockets for the bulbs, a short wood board and discharge cable. It's very simple to build.

Click on my signature line below where you see "CRX" to go to my website. Once there, read the "V2 grid charger/discharger" article.
 

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While you may not have extensive experience working on cars do you: 1) have a willingness to learn? 2) have a decent set of mechanic's hand tools or access to same (Dad) 3) a place to work on the car, and 4) a willingness to invest the time in learning (and it isn't an insignificant amount)? Without all four, the Magic Eight Ball sees a car sale in your future -- "it is decidedly so."

With all four, the complete service manual is available for download -- search site, and folks on here are incredibly generous with their time and knowledge. It is a real community, and a welcoming one at that.

The choice is yours. In my experience these cars aren't especially difficult to work on, although the low ground clearance can be a bit of a bear even with ramps (and jacks/jackstands).

Edited to add: A 19 year old car with a dead IMA pack and 240 k miles has essentially no trade in value. You'd likely do better with a private sale (even on here). Probably biggest economic return would be a part out, but it is a shame to do that to any running car, particularly a rare one, and it helps to know a little bit of auto mechanics to successfully part out a car.
 

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Check your 12V system grounds - one from battery to firewall, other 2 to lower right of air box - make sure they're in decent shape, etc., make sure the 12V battery is in good condition (at least charge it up with an external charger).

Turn the IMA pack switch OFF, drive, see if the drivability issues (the jerkies) go away. You should be able to have a relatively smooth, normal drive without the IMA enabled...

If that doesn't help, pull your spark plugs and make sure they're clean, decent shape, appropriate gap.

If that doesn't help, pull the connector from the EGR valve, drive, if the jerkies go away replace the EGR valve.

If that doesn't help, check your 'blink codes' and report back.
 

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do NOT immediately peg the batterypack in need of repalcement. SO MANY have been repalced when a simple cycle or even finding a long downhill spot can help solve this! I have a favorite backroad that has twisty uphill and downhill sections that allow a good use of the assist, then a nice long charge downhill while in gear.

Does wonders for cycling the battery pack when you are away form the garage and a grid charger.

Healthy 12v battery is required for the engine side of things. fuel injectors want good clean power, ignition coils want good clean power, and the crank and cam sensors rely on a 5v reference circuit that itself, relies on a strong 12v system.

eq1 mentioned ground wires. My 2001 ground wires were DUST nad corrosion when I got my car, acting like ti was about to poop the bed. Fresh battery, fresh ground wires, she started running great.

The jerky driving could be an exhaust leak between head and O2 sensor, could be clogged cats, could be bad sensors.


Best test, go out on teh road, get up to 60mph, and see how 4th gear feels. If the car cannot deal with 4th gear, it is DOWN ON POWER.
 

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I could never do that, even with both cats gutted, tires aired up to 50psi, good fuel in the tank, and knowing the rear of the car was slightly lifted wiht the GAZ shocks and spring spacers (stock sprigns saggy)

Maybe my car as well has an issue.
 

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I could never do that, even with both cats gutted, tires aired up to 50psi, good fuel in the tank, and knowing the rear of the car was slightly lifted wiht the GAZ shocks and spring spacers (stock sprigns saggy)

Maybe my car as well has an issue.
I have two Insights. One is definitely down on power a bit compared with the other but it will still maintain 70+ in 5th. The other would do 75-80 with A/C on.
 

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On level ground, and with A/C off, a healthy Insight engine should maintain 75-80mph without problem in 5th.
hmm, never thought of that. How 'exact' are you being here? Is it more like, 'If your car can't do this, then it likely has a weak engine,' rather than, 'If you can do this it's healthy'?

Pretty sure I don't have any issues with this, but I don't usually drive 75-80 MPH. I'll have to try it...
 

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When I pulled my engine, it had 250k miles, all of the underbody panels in place, 45psi RE92s and some other very small aero mods (upper grille block). I've taken quite a few road trips in it and know just about where it capped out in 5th on level ground.

It would also just barely maintain lean burn ~75mpg at 65mph without A/C, if that helps
 

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I’ve reduced my cars weight by 200 pounds. Only have one windshield wiper. Cut the front springs car sits closer to the ground. Even lost my girlfriend.I easily maintain a speed between 40 and 50 miles an hour.
I also push my car out from under the carport to the Apex of the front yard. Do a Fred Astaire move jump in the car backwards roll down to the next house crank the car in fifth gear.I do more from 0 to 8 miles an hour than most people do all day.
I love the smell of aluminum in the morning.
 

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Mine will happily run all day at 90+mph in 5th with the AC on and no boost from the battery. Up reasonably-sized hills, too. I once passed some chickensh!t tuner in a slammed Civic at 103. He refused to let me pass, at first. Now... It took me a while to get there, but there was still some engine-oomph remaining. The car was willing. I was not. I probably burned more fuel in those couple miles than Nathan does in a couple months!
 
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I briefly tried to do the '75-80 MPH in 5th gear' thing today. Was too hard to tell whether the ground was flat or not, whether there was a headwind/tailwind or not, plus, there's various...'power management' things that come into play, such as lean burn or not, AFR below 14.1:1 or not, VTEC or not (IMA stuff can be eliminated with a calpod activated)...

I'll have to try again at some point... I'm mainly curious because my engine must burn oil, something like a qt per 4000 miles, so I wonder if my cylinder bores/rings are getting worn and if that would 'present' by lower-than-normal power, which lowness might be revealed with this 75-80 MPH test...
 

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Hello,

Let me start off by saying I have no idea how to work on cars, least of all this one. I bought this car from my car savvy dad. It has 240k miles on it. The IMA light is on, the battery pack needs to be replaced. I do grid charge it and disconnect it from the 12V every time I do so, because then it will charge as normal. My dad bought the car about 5 years ago with the IMA light on and bought the charger.

When the car is not charged, and the IMA light is on, I get really bad jerking (the herky jerkies lol) and stuttering when trying to accelerate. It will run with AC like this, but it's a chore and it's like driving a golf cart.

I want to get opinions on whether or not it would be worth it to have someone replace the battery pack and keep the car at how many miles it has now, or try to trade it in.

To be honest, other than oil changes and things like that, I have not done any other maintenance on it in a while. I feel like there are things that can be done to the car that would improve it's performance but I'm not sure where to start.

Also, is it bad to keep disconnecting the 12v every time I'm putting it on grid to achieve the normal state?
I am local to Tampa Bay if there are any enthusiasts locally.

I also drive 50 miles round trip for work so I am worried about the cars reliability when the IMA light is on and I haven't been able to charge it.
TIA
Looks like a job for BumbleBee. Check out my Red 2000 on AutoTrader. OR sent it to LHT performance in Florida and let them put in a Civic Si Engine/Transmission and Dash. Then you can go out and terrorize Mustang GTs. Good stuff.
 

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Looks like a job for BumbleBee. Check out my Red 2000 on AutoTrader. OR sent it to LHT performance in Florida and let them put in a Civic Si Engine/Transmission and Dash. Then you can go out and terrorize Mustang GTs. Good stuff.
Sadly LHT doesn't do this anymore, but there are quite a few other shops that can, now, since the parts needed to do the conversion are all off-the-shelf now.
 

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Looks like a job for BumbleBee. Check out my Red 2000 on AutoTrader. OR sent it to LHT performance in Florida and let them put in a Civic Si Engine/Transmission and Dash. Then you can go out and terrorize Mustang GTs. Good stuff.
well them bumblebee is your choice. or abandon the car. OR buy my ready to go Red low milage tricked out 2000. check it out. it's on autotrader.
 
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