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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all! My girlfriend recently picked up a 2000 Insight - loving the car, but we discovered something scary during our first oil change - the seller's last oil change partially stripped the threading.

It's still oil-tight, but I can't get the drain bolt to the specced 29 lbft - somewhere around 15 lbft it simply spins.

I'm seriously considering a Fumoto or other drain valve, but still have to ensure the installation is oil-tight and won't back out, though leaving the current bolt as-is and doing vacuum extraction is a definite possibility.

I'm also finding conflicting information about whether the threading is located in the pan itself or the Oil Pan Drain Base as shown below:

83028


From Honda Parts Now . com :

6 - 11202-PHM-310 - Base, Oil Pan Drain - $13.48
27 - 91308-PA9-003 - O-Ring (19.8X1.9) (ARAI) - $2.40

There are three FAQ-linked posts for similar problems, but none have a verified long-term solution, and none have a consensus - One focuses on replacing the gasket and retainer but ignores the stripping, and the other two argue over helicoil, jb weld, and full pan replacement.

Given the age of these threads, I'm wondering if there's an update - do we have a time-tested solution or concensus?
 

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6 - 11202-PHM-310 - Base, Oil Pan Drain - $13.48
27 - 91308-PA9-003 - O-Ring (19.8X1.9) (ARAI) - $2.40

There are three FAQ-linked posts for similar problems, but none have a verified long-term solution, and none have a consensus - One focuses on replacing the gasket and retainer but ignores the stripping, and the other two argue over helicoil, jb weld, and full pan replacement.

Given the age of these threads, I'm wondering if there's an update - do we have a time-tested solution or concensus?
The cheap fix, assuming some threads are left, is to remove and discard part #6 &27. That will allow a Fumoto to get a few more threads.

Drain the sump, let it drain very, very thoroughly. Stick a rolled paper towel, rolled up tightly, into the drain hole and wick out as much oil as your can. Repeat 2-3 times until the engine no longer contaminates the threads. Use a very small brush, like an old tooth brush and brake clean to spray and scrub the hole.

Install the Fumoto with plenty of Permatex sealant on the threads and gasket. Torque to no more than 4-6 foot pounds and hope for the best.

Otherwise, the next most expensive fix is to use a rethreading kit. That can get rather expensive because the tools in the kit are expensive. Scot of Covina CA does the repair for customers at a decent price, but not sure where you are located.
 

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Hover over his avatar, and he is in Austin TX,
 

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Ah, the magic of the crossed replies :rolleyes:

Anyway, if worse came to worse, Scot probably would ship you a repaired sump. Would be cheaper than buying one from Honda. They are rather hard to find used because so many of them have been stripped. You can call him DURING BUSINESS HOURS Pacific time at nine oh nine, six oh five, 3810
 

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Look on Fumoto's site for a adapter and machined the Hex part back to get a longer reach into the oil pan to access more threads remove the gasket and epoxy the adapter to your pan after removing the existing aluminum plate, install the valve to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just to follow up:

I installed the Fumoto valve at its next oil change (yes, we put 7,000 miles on it in 4ish months).

Observations:
  • When I removed the old drain plug, what I assume as a badly installed healacoil came out with it - a rough-textured spring that (mostly) stayed int he drain plug thread troughs. /sigh
  • Permatex Thread Sealant takes ages to cure. I gave it 6 hours, but I'm nervous that might not have been enough
  • A normal drain bolt would be long enough to grip fine even with the Oil Pan Drain Base in place, but definitely helped with the fumoto
  • Despite all the damage, with the permatex on the threads, I could push it tighter than hand tight and it didn't spin. Yay for a secure valve!
So, thanks for the input, everyone!
 

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My oil pan did this as well and I removed #6, 27 & 30. Then I added some Black Permatex oil resistant RTV to the threads of the bolt. This allows it to seal well, but not have to worry about getting it torqued to 29 ft.lbs. The RTV keeps it tight and leak free.
 

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The 29ft lbs figure is way too high even for good threads.
Half that maximum in my book.
 

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MY FIRST INSIGHT HAD A CRAZY HOMEMADE DEVICE IN PLACE OF THE DRAIN PLUG .
I KNEW WHY AND DECIDED TO POSTPONE MY OIL CHANGE WONDERING IF IT WOULD SEAL UP A SECOND TIME .

I PURCHASED A FUMOTO BRASS DRAIN VALVE THAT FITS THE INSIGHT ON E-BAY .
ONCE I REMOVED THE OLD PLUG DEVICE ( HELD IN PLACE WITH A TOGGLE BOLT ! )
I LET THE PAN DRIP DRY .

I THEN CLEANED OUT THE HOLE WITH SOLVENT TO REMOVE THE OIL RESIDUE
AND COATED THE HOLE AND THREADS ON THE VALVE WITH J-B WELD .

CAREFULLY SCREW THE VALVE IN PLACE UNTIL YOU CAN FEEL SOME RESISTANCE .
CLEAN UP ANY EXCESS GLUE THEN LEAVE IT ALONE UNTIL THE NEXT DAY .

YOU NOW HAVE A LEAK PROOF VALVE THAT REQUIRES NO TOOLS TO DRAIN THE OIL
AND YOU DIDN'T NEED TO REPLACE THE PAN .
 
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