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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,
I really need your help. Anyone here install philips daylight 4? My philips drl was having the turn on and off issues. Philips sent me the updated control box with a additional blue wire. The blue wire is to connect with the car acc. When key turn on the power is on so that the blue wire detect it, with the detection you won't get the on and off issues. In 2nd gen honda insight engine bay the only fuse box available is the small fuse box next to the 12v battery. The 2, 15a fuse is a ignition fuse. I tried connecting to that fuse and it work, no more turn off and on issues. But.....now the problem is the led will not turn off when I turn off the engine. The led stays on for like 5 or 10 minutes.
Found out the ignition fuse is on for 5 or 10 minutes even though the key turn to off.
I guess this is not the ideal place to connect the blue wire. Anyone know where and how the ideal place to connect the blue wire?

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Any idea where can I insert the wire from engine bay into behind the dashboard? Unfortunately My right hand drive insight fuse box behind the dashboard is on the right. Far away from the car battery on the left.
 

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Err, you got a 2009 or later insight? Dont they come with DRLs?

I dont see the problem with them staying on 5-10 minutes. Most alarm systems do that with the reverse and parking lights here in the US once you leave or arm the system.

I guess plan b is to tap the acc fuse under the dash and run a wire between the door gasket, fender gap to under the hood?
 

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Only in America do they have DRLs (low burning high beams?)
That same arrangement is illegal here (depending on how much light it emits IIRC) and needs to be deactivated on imported cars.
 

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I installed these DRL's on a 1st-generation Insight, so I can't help you with a specific suggestion where to connect the blue wire. On my Insight, there was not a standard source of switched 12 v. power in the engine compartment which might be true for your Insight as well. When I installed an aftermarket cruise control, I had routed a switched 12 v. power wire from the under-dash fuse panel through an existing hole in the firewall to the cruise control controller in the engine compartment. I connected both the blue wire and the main power wire to this switched 12 v. wire. This works perfectly.

I connected the main power wire to this switched 12 v. wire to eliminate the continuous parasitic drain that occurred when the main power wire was connected directly to the positive 12 v. battery terminal. If you drive your car frequently and have a good 12 v. battery, this parasitic drain should not be a problem.

You'll probably have to run the blue wire through the firewall to the under-dash fuse panel where there should be several switched 12 v. sources that you could tap using one of those add-a-fuse connectors. If the blue wire is not long enough to reach the under-dash fuse, you'll need to extend it.
 

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Yeah, thats one method. Run high beams at a lower power. Another uses a 5 watt lamp with an extra bulb off to the side. Some use leds in a lamp off to the side. Other cars just have automatic lights that come on when you drive.

Only in America do they have DRLs (low burning high beams?)
That same arrangement is illegal here (depending on how much light it emits IIRC) and needs to be deactivated on imported cars.
 

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All the new cars here have LED DRLs at the headlamp base or in the front bumper edges.

I bought 2 really cheap adhesive LED strips (4.5W each)
BUT they are too long (1') to fit under the indicators and not white enough. Should be 6000-6500 K but are much more blue than other 6500K LEDs I have.
I'll find a use for them somewhere else.

They are really bright, like blindingly bright close by. They get warm. They lose their heat quickly too; the black backing material spreads it well.
If only they gave real white light.
 

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Whiter ones are available (yellower really) look for something in the 3000k range. (color temp) That's about halogen. If one is going to use some leds like these in a house, try for an even lower number, like 2800k. Those strips can be cut, there is often a little scissors indicator where you can. In the photo above, those can be cut every three leds, indicated there by the markings with the + & -
 

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I know, miniinthebox has them too. Just not that cheap and that powerful.
I am holding my step for now; too many plans, too little time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cobb, aisbell,
Mine is 2011. Unfortunately Insight from my country doesn't come with DRL. Thanks for the tip. I managed to run through the wire from the fender gap to a rubber gasket near the fender? By extending the blue wire and managed to connect to one of the available empty fuse slot in the fuse box with an add on fuse adapter under the dash.

I installed the positive and negative wires to the battery terminals since it is my daily drive car, so I wouldn't worry about battery draining. If I have to leave my car for days, I would just take inline fuse out from the red wire, so the DRL is not functional.

There are many types of DRL led out there and especially those cheap stuff from China, I chose Philips DRL because they have the OEM factory like LED quality and brightness and most important thing is White Colour. Philips guaranteed their LED DRL last the life time of your vehicle. Its worth speeding extra more to get this rather than those CHINA stuff and fail on you numerous times. The only problem with Philips DRL, only year 2013 manufacturer onward the control box is compatible with hybrid cars. Unfortunately I bought mine was manufactured in year 2012 and I have to go through difficult times just to get the updated control box.

Currently the DRL works perfectly.....Finally..................
Thanks for the help and tips guys....Appreciated.
 

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Dear Alxdc,

Can u show the picture where exactly the fender gap where u lay the blue wire to the engine bay? I have been trying to find it but can't find it.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Dear Alxdc,

Can u show the picture where exactly the fender gap where u lay the blue wire to the engine bay? I have been trying to find it but can't find it.

Thanks in advance.
Hi. Okay. I didnt take picture for insight, but i have picture of honda city (honda fit sedan) which I done it again and is exactly the same location as insight.

There is a hole that you can fit through the wire and into the fender.




Then you have to remove this cover to locate the wire and the round rubber seal inside the fender.



Once remove the cover, you can see the wire and the round rubber seal. Poke a small hole and run the wire through it. Once done, you can see the wire under neath the dashboard. There maybe some firewall carpet blocking it. try to open up the firewall and locate the wire.

By the way my car is a RHD.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You have to extend the blue wire. Use a proper wire female and male socket to extend the wire.
 

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Dear alxdc,

Thanks a lot for the picture!! Understand now, so do connet the blue to the acc fuse or other slot? If other slot, which slot no you would recommend?

Sorry for so many question, i am really noob.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Dear alxdc,

Thanks a lot for the picture!! Understand now, so do connet the blue to the acc fuse or other slot? If other slot, which slot no you would recommend?

Sorry for so many question, i am really noob.. :)
Connect the blue wire to the empty slot. Use a multimeter and test it. Make sure thAt empty slot when u turn your key to ON it read 12v and when you turn your to Off. It read 0.

Use the fuse adapter to connect to the fuse box available slot.


By the way. Where are you from?
 

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Hi alxdc,

Owh really, im in the insighters fb group, are u in there as well? Maybe i can pm you for better understanding. Thanks again.
 
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