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You should replace only that one bearing and ignore all the other ones that may or may not fail in the next 5-50k miles. Being cheap and doing the job multiple times is clearly the right answer.
So if I understand what you are saying correctly here, you would replace all of the bearings, I attached a file for all of the seals and bearings to do the job and it will cost $325 dollars.

I kind of agree it makes sense to just replace them all while I have it open, and that is actually what I intended to do before reading this lengthy thread, but lots of people in this thread say its not necessary.

My transmission does have 200K miles on it which is a lot.

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This is what I got the last time,

mainshaft bearing in clutch housing 91002-PHR-013

“ “ oil seal 91216-PHR-003

mainshaft bearing 91004-PHR-003

countershaft bearing 91101-PHR-003

countershaft bearing 91006-PHR-003

countershaft bearing w/groove 91003-P21-003

(2) differential bearings 91005-PHR-003



right axle seal 91206-PHR-003

left axle seal 91205-PL3-A01
 

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Thanks atikovi, I think that is all of them.

Could you tell me where you ordered them from? I'm just curious to see if you bought directly from Honda or sourced them elsewhere.

Also what did you use for sealing up the transmission, like honda bond?

Thanks.
 

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I'm now at about 260K miles with my tabectomy and ISB rebuild (@224K).
The ISB is: 91002-PHR-013
The seal is: 91216-PHR-003

I also did the bearing on the other end of the input shaft 91004-PHR-003
And replaced the two axel seals: 91205-PL3-A01 and 91206-PHR-003

My heart dropped a little bit last week as I thought I hear the ISB noise return, alas it was just the idler pulley bearing, easy fix. I hear where people are coming from when they say as long as it is out replace all the wear items, but I don't think its a bad choice to replace just the items above that have a record of going bad while everything else seems to last quite a bit longer. Good luck, send pictures, and questions (651-261-7310), I'm going to do another insight tranny rebuild over the holidays so this was a good reminder of the parts I need to order.
 

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Thanks, I go back and forth if I should replace all of the bearings. Mainly because my transmission has no issues with any bearings right now and I am only going to rebuild it because of my clutch slipping. But I will replace the ISB of course because that is known to fail often.

Would you know if certain bearings get a lot more use than other bearings in the transmission and if some bearings hardly get any use.

We know the ISB gets the most. But are there bearings that get far less use, like ones that are only used for reverse or for individual gears which will probably never get worn out?
 

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Buy once Cry Once, spent around $400 dollars for all of these parts to rebuild my transmission. They also include the clutch bearings, MT Fluid, Hondabond HT, new washers for drain plugs.

Copy and paste of my order, exclude the stickers, I thought I would get them to make my car look nicer though.

It was hard to justify changing all the bearings but I figure with 200K miles and the fact that this aluminum car doesn't want to die on me or rust away, I might as well just change all of the bearings.

$400 seems like a lot, but if I had to pay a shop just to change the clutch, they would probably charge me alone $400 just for the clutch parts.

Part Number​
Part Name​
Price​
Quantity​
Total​
75731-S3Y-A00​
Sticker, Rear (G-E Hybrid)​
$13.06​
1​
$13.06​
22810-PLW-005​
Bearing, Clutch Release (Nsk)​
$63.80​
1​
$63.80​
91002-PHR-013​
Bearing (26X52X15)​
$26.51​
1​
$26.51​
91216-PHR-003​
Oil Seal (26X40X7) (Nok)​
$7.37​
1​
$7.37​
91101-PHR-003​
Bearing, Needle (34X59X20)​
$34.90​
1​
$34.90​
91206-PHR-003​
Oil Seal (35X58X8) (Nok)​
$10.12​
1​
$10.12​
78419-S2R-003​
Seal, Ring​
$3.30​
1​
$3.30​
91006-PHR-003​
Bearing, Special Ball (6205)​
$26.51​
1​
$26.51​
91003-P21-003​
Bearing, Ball (25X52X14/15) (Ntn)​
$35.65​
1​
$35.65​
91005-PHR-003​
Bearing, Sealed Ball (6207) (Ntn)​
$31.78​
2​
$63.56​
91004-PHR-003​
Bearing, Ball (26X72X15.5/14.5)​
$31.78​
1​
$31.78​
91215-PHR-003​
Oil Seal (18X30X7) (Nok)​
$6.80​
1​
$6.80​
94109-14000​
Washer, Drain Plug (14MM)​
$0.42​
2​
$0.84​
94109-20000​
Washer, Drain Plug (20MM)​
$0.85​
1​
$0.85​
91205-PL3-A01​
Oil Seal (35X56X8) (Arai)​
$10.67​
1​
$10.67​
75717-S3Y-A00​
Sticker (Ulev & Lev)​
$10.20​
1​
$10.20​
75723-S3Y-000ZA​
Sticker, Rear (Type Fs) (Insight)​
$17.52​
1​
$17.52​
91006-634-008​
Bearing, Clutch Pilot (Ntn)​
$23.64​
1​
$23.64​
08718-0004​
Hondabond Ht​
$10.32​
1​
$10.32​
08798-9031​
Fluid Mt​
$6.71​
2​
$13.42​
08717-1194​
Hondabond 4​
$5.09​
1​
$5.09​







 

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This is what I got the last time,
I'm now at about 260K miles with my tabectomy and ISB rebuild (@224K).
Hi,

I was hoping you guys can help me out and give me advice on what tools I should buy to replace all the bearings. Maybe a link or a picture of what you used would be really helpful.
I can't find much information on what tools I should use to remove and also to replace the bearings.


Do I need a bearing press? I saw someone on youtube just hammer on the bearings with a socket.

Do I need a blind bearing puller or can I just knock out the bearings with a hammer, like in the video below at 29.00 minutes?

An important question is do I need a bearing separator like this one below, with that flat bottom piece. Or will a 2 or 3 jaw puller bearing puller work? I will not reuse the bearings so not that worried about ruining them when I remove them.

Again, thanks and I appreciate any help into this.





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Here is a video of someone rebuilding an insight transmission using a hammer and socket, is this OK? Also at 29.00 minutes, he taps out the ISB with a hammer and screw driver.

 

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Click on the word "puller" for the link.
great, I have that tool already so I'll probably try and just use that. The only thing I was worried about was if you could possibly damage a gear tooth with the small grabbing area of the puller compared to a bearing separator. Do you think this could be an issue, or no way this would chip a tooth on the gear?

You can see in the video, he uses a separator, which allows for more surface area under the gear.

 

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I was just looking into replacing the differential bearing and it seems I need to reshim this or something? I can't find much information on this and still looking though the insight repair manual to find where this is.

I do see that honda sells a bunch of different shim sizes for the differential.


Oh jeez, I guess I will have to order this after I figure out what size shim I need.

If anyone knows what section this is in the honda repair manual it will be appreciated if you can let me know because I can't seem to find it.
 

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Couldn't find anything in the repair manual, but I was able to find a youtube video on shimming the differential on a Audi limited slip differential, but I think its the same concepts on our honda, at least for the necessity of shimming.

I have the gauges to do this, so I guess I will try and do this shimming. However, I would need to know the Insight Spec and I can't seem to find any information in the repair manual on this.

If some of you can watch the video and let me know what you think? I am wondering what the people who replaced the differential bearings did about this play, or did you just skip it?

 

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I have been doing more research into how to measure the clearances of the transmission after replacing the bearings.

There is no information in the Insight Honda Manual about the differential bearing even though there should be. They must have forgotten to put it in the manual.

Here is a manual page from another Honda transmission, not the insight, to show you an example of what is missing and the specification of .0 to .1mm. I assume its probably similar to our transmissions.

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Here is also a good youtube video on someone checking this differential clearance and checking the ISB (also known as and called mainshaft bearing) clearance. You would need the special tool to check the ISB clearance.

When replacing any bearing, it could be a different height and the gears may not line up, that is why you are suppose to check these clearances.


 

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I got all my parts for my transmission rebuild, although I may be delayed a month until I can start the job, partly because of the cold weather as I don't want to work below 40 degrees outside.

I was wondering if you used any special oil or assembly lube for:

1) installing the seals

2) installing or applying to the bearings or gears

Also, how well did you clean all the transmission parts? Do you need to spray everything down or just wipe everything up with a rag?

Thanks

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