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Same brand/part number as what I used. Reading my older posts, I wrote that the gap between inserts and housing was 3mm. If convenient, you should take an actual measurement of the housing hole in your OEM mount and your new DIY mount, and outside diameter of your inserts with the 'tube' inserted, post back so we know why you have a potential clearance issue...



You might. But like I said, you can bore the tube hole to compensate. I'd try what you have first though. It's not difficult to install the mount - I must have done it at least a dozen times when I was dialing-in this mod...


Just measure how much 'tube' you have sticking out beyond the inserts and add about 1mm - that's the thickness for the washers.
I installed the mount last night, and drove the car about an hour to school. To be quite frank, I didn't notice any major difference in the performance. I have a good rear motor mount on my car, so my point of comparison is with a proper OEM feel. With that said, I still get the launching rumble at around 1000-1400 rpm just like the old mount. However, the mid range in the other gears feels slightly different. Say 1500-1700 rpm when in second under load feels different. I could say it is better, but I need to dismantle and get real measurement numbers. My guess is that I will be either turning down the aluminum insert, or I will bore out the bump stop material. Unfortunately, I won't be able to get back to this project for about two weeks. Finals are first priority.

However, I do need to modify my CAD model for the bolt size. I downsized the clearance hole for more structural strength, but it appears my guess work was not entirely accurate. The hole needs to be at least 1" to fit the bolt through with a socket. I'll see about uploading the modified CAD file in this upcoming week. I've included some pictures of the setup with the washers.

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Great work. To answer your question about posting you math files, the secret is to rename the file something the system will accept like .txt.
I tried removing the .stl off the end of the file. I'm not sure what you mean by math file, as it is a 3D CAD file. However, the system still won't accept it. I imagine I'll have to post it somewhere else then include a link to that location.
 

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I consider the CAD file as a math file. If the name of the file is rear_mount.stl rename it to rear_mount.txt. Once it's downloaded as a .txt file (or any other file type) to another computer this .txt file must be changed to the original type of file type so it can be opened by the appropriate software. One must know the original file type.
 

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Alright, I have included the file as a .txt file. Not sure if this will work for you guys, but let me know.

Edit: Once downloaded, change the ending of the file name from ".txt" too ".stl", and that should create the proper file format for uploading it to your preferred slicer software. Cheers!
 

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Once it's downloaded as a .txt file (or any other file type) to another computer this .txt file must be changed to the original type of file so it can be opened by the appropriate software. One must know the original file type. Sorry I didn't mention that above.
 

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It's not filling it that's the problem. It's letting it properly cure. If you filled it and let it sufficiently dry, then it would work as a temp fix for about 5K miles and not much more than that. If you take it out of the car, youc ould really fill it, and as long as you make sure it doesn't bubble or anything, then that would work as well. It's just messy.
I actually did this and have had no issues in 15k slightly more vibration at idle that’s it


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What settings did you use with NylonX filament? Did you also have to dehydrate the filament like you normally do with nylon filaments?
 

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What settings did you use with NylonX filament? Did you also have to dehydrate the filament like you normally do with nylon filaments?
As for the settings, I did some tuning in speed with my Prusa Slic3r, but none of the speeds updated in the gcode, so I am still dealing with that. However, I used 4 wall layers, 4-5 roof and floor layers (not sure exactly), 80% infill triangular infill. Nozzle temperature of 264 Celsius for most of the print, thought I plan to up this so I can print a little faster. 90 Celsius on the bed temperature, though I am thinking 80 Celsius will be my new go to. Extrusion multiplier of 0.95. No fan for NylonX unless doing bridging. I run my fan at 25% for bridging. For support, I use a 0.2 mm z offset for ease of removal. 5-7 mm gap between main support towers, and .5 between the finer links on Slic3r. I used a small brim for this part. I like these settings. Make sure you use a glue stick on the bed whether heated or not. Also, if you can contain the heat from the printing or make a nice toasty but not hot environment to print in, you can likely expect even better results.

Yes, I did dry this material once before. I do also have a dry box I use when printing, though I have been storing this in a plastic bag with descant packs when not in use, and I wasn't sure exactly how dry it was. The print looked the same as when I had this exact filament before without drying it, so I don't know. If you want a super strong equivalent of NylonX, I would buy Onyx. This is a more expensive form of a nylon with chopped carbon fiber reinforcement that is proprietary to Markforged. However, if I could experiment on my printer with the nicest stuff, this is what I would get. I have experience with running prints for others out of it, and this material is truly great stuff. It is super, super moisture sensitive from my experience. So if you choose to go that route, be aware of that. It is a 1.75 mm diameter, so it will run on my Prusa.

Hope that answered your questions. If not, let me know. I can grab pictures of my slicer settings if that is of interest.
 

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that is helpful information. I've only ran pure nylon before, my Ultimaker uses 3mm filament. What layer height were you printing at?
 

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that is helpful information. I've only ran pure nylon before, my Ultimaker uses 3mm filament. What layer height were you printing at?
Sorry, that is most definitely relevant information. I was using a 0.2mm layer height. Does your Ultimaker have the option to use 1.75 mm filament if you change the setup or nozzle? By the way, make sure you use a hardened steel nozzle for anything with chopped carbon fiber reinforcement. Brass just gets chewed up by the abrasive carbon fiber strands.
 

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I am not sure if I can swap filament sizes, but I would hope so. Ah good advice on the steel nozzle, I wasn't thinking about that.
 
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