[Craigjoplin1959]

People on this site have parts to sell.
They may chime in. Check this sites market place where you can even post a WTB (want to buy)
Also some auto salvage places advertise on eBay and have parts cars. Even it they don't advertise that exact part, good chance the parts car still has it.

 

[Bull Dog]

If you want it professionally repaired, it's time to take a trip up to Jue Motors in Covina, CA. We have the parts.

If you want to attempt the replacement on your own, then you should go on YouTube and look for KLR3CYL's Video on removing the dash bezel.

 

[Willie Williford]

All the info you need:

https://www.yelp.com/biz/jue-motors-covina

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbczmUvUkN8dqTbQOVWI56w

 

[Doctor_Zoidberg]

Rocketfuel, I see you also live in San Diego! With this rain I too had my Driver side window only want to go down. It would come up about halfway and stop. What fixed it for me was spraying WD 40 silicone in the window tracks, both front and rear, and moved the window up and down a few times. Silicone Lubricant Spray | WD-40 Water Resistant Silicone | WD-40

 

[FadedBlue]

This might not be the problem with your window, but the window switch on the driver's side can break in such a way that the least bit of downward force can start it moving downward (like it does normally) but when you release the switch, the switch does not pop back up enough to actually turn off. With the switch still on, the window motor stays on after the window reaches the bottom of the door. After it has been on long enough, the resettable thermal circuit breaker inside the motor trips. It will keep the motor shut off until it cools enough to connect again. The motor will come on because the switch on the dash is still closed, the motor will not move because the window is already down, get hot again, rinse and repeat.

If you push the switch up to close the window, nothing will happen if you happen to push it up while the thermal breaker is still closed. In that case you can hold it up and wait for the thermal breaker to reset, and the window should go back up.

Once you lift the window switch up, and release, it will tend to stay in the off position until you press it down again.

Those of us with this problem learn to lift the switch after rolling the window down, or stop the window before it rolls down all the way, in which case the switch will be off and the thermal breaker will not flip.

Sometimes the motors do burn out or the brushes wear out. Then it is a different problem.

This is good to know. I usually try not to put my driver's side window all the way down, knowing that it may take a while before it will go back up. However I have on occassion just hit the button for down and not realized I just put the window all the way down. So the reason why the window stays down for a while is that I have to wait for the thermal breaker to reset.

I suppose I should replace the switch as one of my next projects. If I have to take the take the dash bezel off I suppose I should also replace the little switches so I can reset my maintenance light. I was looking at the video for that and it has this link for the replacement switches: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/KSA0M911LFT/CKN9954-ND/2057205 However those switches are currently out of stock.

 

[5sp]

So once I bumped this switch by accident after rolling down my passenger window and it would not go back up until… I turned it back on, window went back up, new to the car learning curve. I guess it’s there to keep kids from playing with the passenger side window up, down, up, down … are we there yet?

Another time I rolled the driver window down and it wouldn’t go up. So took the driver door panel off, removed the glass, removed the window tracks and mechanism and cleaned the tracks and mechanism, greased the moving bits and, before putting it all back together, cleaned all the dirt out of the felts and rubber bits. After I put it all back together, it worked just grand.

Another time, the passenger window went down and wouldn’t come back up. So I did what I did the time the drivers window didn’t roll up. But this time it still didn’t go up.

So I took my tester and tracked from the above switch, under the dash, until I found that there was a clip-connector under the passenger foot kick panel that there was something amiss in that quick connect, that’s where the power stopped flowing. So I routed a new wire to make sure there was power to the passenger side window switch from the main on/off I the photo above.

All’s well that ends well.