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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to get input from folks on whether or not anyone thinks it is worthwhile to purchase a new/replacement IMA battery.

Many of our cars have 200k or more in mileage. They don't look as nice as they used to. My car has been maintained and overall, is in great condition.
But the main thing that concerns me is the cars seeming inability to maintain the IMA battery.

My original Honda IMA battery made it 10.5 years with the help of a grid charger starting around year 8.

I've had 2 other batteries since then and the 1st went almost 3 years and the 2nd about 6 months. My car went from being ultra reliable to "what's it going to do today?" every single day.

I drive 65 miles round trip daily to work so need a car that runs reliably without all the "surprises" each day.

I converted over to an Arduino setup a few months ago and the car is now back to being utterly reliable but I sure do miss the IMA assist in this Dallas traffic. Texas Summer is rapidly approaching and I can't imagine using the A/C with the Arduino set up that I am currently using but maybe I should try it before dismissing it altogether.

So for now, I have a base hit and I expect the car will continue to run well. Getting around 58 MPG per gas tank so it's not as bad as it could be. The question is do I try to score/splurge for yet another IMA battery. Based on history, I'd be crazy to unless I could find one that matches up to the performance of the original Honda battery.

Appreciate any and all thoughts. :)
 

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Personally, I don't think aftermarket packs are ever a good idea. In your case where you've had two it sounds like an even worse idea...

There was a write-up on second gen Prius cells as a replacement within the last year or so. If I hadn't gone other directions I'd probably be trying those. Sounded like a good, economical, reliable alternative, with not too much fuss.

If I couldn't fuss with even that, I'd be buying a used OEM pack - maybe a Bumblebee 'Bee-Line' if I could get a hold of one of those, and I'd manage the pack somewhat manually by using the pack at as low a charge state as I could.

I've had 'good luck' with an OEM pack I reconditioned, which had thrown codes when I got it. I'm on year 3 with that, now, and I think the key was ultra deep discharge and using the pack at low charge states. This pack puts out full-blown full assist at very low charge states and relatively cool temps, a sure sign that the pack is working how it should... This is an original pack from 2002: the fact that this pack can put out like it does just blows my mind - it's 17 years old! I'm pretty sure there's something wrong with how the stock management, the BCM, does its thing - I think the cells get a bad rap when its really the management that's to blame...
 

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You probably live in The Land Without Rust. There’s always the CRZ. Similar form factor and mileage close to what you’re getting now. You can pick one up fairly cheap, too.

I know some folks ‘round here don’t think much of them, but it’s something to consider.
 
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