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Discussion Starter #1
got my new parts to fix the slow window problem. when i install the new run channel is it simply snapped/pressed in place, or do u guys glue them? anyone know what honda recomends?

thx!

lear
 

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Run channel

There is nothing in the shop manual re Adhesive....If it snaps firmly in place,I would not use adhesive.JMHO.My window problems disappeared after spraying silicone lubricant down the channels.Window speed now faster than ever.....I did notice that the windows tend to cock in the channels,which causes lateral stiction.This can be adjusted by moving the channels,but just the lube worked so well for me,I left it at that.

Best of Luck,and Kudos for your intiative!Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thx man! ive been milkin mine w lube, monthy cleaning etc for a year now, and its shot. ive adjusted the glass a few times, but i believe the plastic sides that control that lateral play in the wiindow must be worn, cause i can no longer keep it straight. finally my run channnel has gone up w the window and is balled up in the upper cornar. PITA

thx again

lear
 

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slow window movement

Greetings,

My slow window problem was simply a matter of having the guys at Honda lubricate the windows.

They stuck in cold weather from the day the car was new, then worked great once lubed.

Jim Watson
 

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Hi Jim. Welcome to the forum.

The drivers side window slowing down is a common issue with the Insight. Personally I wonder if it has to do with wiring voltage drop due to the thin wiring and longer distance from the control for the passenger door. Eventually someone is bound to discover the root cause, meanwhile many have found that lubrication helps.
 

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sticking electric windows

Hi Kip,

Thanks for welcoming me to the group.

As for the windows, mine stuck from the time the car was brand new. I told the dealer that I thought they put 'experimental windows' in the car, whereupon he suggested lubing them. It's been 14 months and they are working fine.

I'm not sure how they lubed the tracks but I know they did it without removing the inner door panels, and there was no charge for it.

Jim
 

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silicone spray fixes it

If you spray silicone down the channels it cures the problem completely,for quite a long time.This leads me to belive the problem is not electrical, but simply a matter of friction....And window motors/hardware will last ALOT longer if lubricated routinely,as it markedly decreases the strain on the motor and related parts.

Plus it is so easy to do....just spray down the channels.esp.in the rear of the door...
 

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Honda power windows are notorious for having this problem. I recently fixed it on my 97 model Civic, which is a slightly different style, by replacing the regulator.

The regulator can sometimes get "tweaked" or slightly bent, and the additional force required to open / close the window will wear it out over time.

I'd replace the regulator before the run channel, personally.
 

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Sorry to resurrect this thread but what exactly is the procedure to spray silicone down the channels?

Do you lower the driver's window all the way down before you start spraying with the silicone spray can?
 

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Yes.....Be aggressive with the spray. Use the tube that comes with the spray. Both front and rear channels. Let it set for a while so the lube gets a chance to run down the channel. You might have to clean the window after the operation.

Willie
 

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What do you mean by front and rear? Are you referring to all of the rubber channels in the window frame (i.e., sides and bottom)?
 

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Roen;
The channels where the window "slides".

Willie
 

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My window problems disappeared after spraying silicone lubricant down the channels.Window speed now faster than ever.....I did notice that the windows tend to cock in the channels,which causes lateral stiction.This can be adjusted by moving the channels,but just the lube worked so well for me,I left it at that.
Sitting in the hot sun for two days at the RDU airport the passenger side window got stuck when I tried to air out the car. Fortunately, enough glass was showing to be able grip the glass betwen both palms and jiggle it loose. You could hear a click when it let go and raised okay.

Machine designer's rule of thumb for a sliding member is to make it at least one and one half times as long as it is wide to give it directional stability. Few automobile windows meet that ratio. Any EXCESSIVE side clearance on a short wide slider such as the Insight side window will allow cocking and will probably result in the binding problem I had.

If you don't have time for either of "eastender's" suggestions you can always jiggle the glass and hope for the best.

Hugh-Falls
 
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