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I was lucky to find 2 pieces from my vintage VW parts bin that work perfectly. The first piece is a 2" by 24" fresh air hose which appears to be made of a dense paper with a metallic inner lining. These are commonly used on VW cars from the 1960s. A VW of this era uses two 12 inch length hoses but I was lucky to find one that I had not cut in half so it remains 24" in length and was the perfect fit. The second piece is a 2" exhaust coupler that attaches the hose to the intake elbow.

I removed the original intake and flipped the intake elbow backwards and positioned the rear under the battery tray so it faces the rear of the engine. I connected the elbow and hose with the exhaust coupler. I ran the 2 inch hose under the batter tray and placed it between the engine block and exhaust manifold behind the first Cat. It stayed in place by itself and needed no attachment point. I placed a zip lock bag secured with a rubber band over the hole for the resonator. This will allow it to be easily removed when outside temps get too hot to allow for cooler air to be pulled in. I used the plastic bag for a few months with no problems but recently found a foam antenna ball that works perfectly. I monitor it all with a ScanGauge II. I like this option because it allows better access to the front of the engine so I can easily remove the oil filter from the top.

I've had this mod installed for a little over 3,000 miles and it has shown no problems with placement or movement. The temps here this time of year have varied between low 40s to high 70s and I am seeing Intake Air Temps from 115 to 125.

I'm sure you could prepare some type of enclosure around the first Cat to produce even warmer temps if you are in a colder climate.

I've attached pictures that I think are self explanatory but feel free to email me should you have any questions.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd91 ... G_0750.jpg
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd91 ... G_0752.jpg
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd91 ... G_0753.jpg
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd91 ... G_0757.jpg
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd91 ... G_0758.jpg
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd91 ... G_0759.jpg
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd91 ... G_0761.jpg
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd91 ... G_0747.jpg
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd91 ... G_0749.jpg
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd91 ... G_0760.jpg
 

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OReilly auto parts sells 2 inch metal flex pipe used for carb intakes, it works perfectly for this took me 10 mins to install, used a 2.250 inch hose clamp and routed under battery as described by atlaw4u, wonderful can't wait to see air intake temps rise!!
 

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Thanks, will check out giving this a go when the weather improves.
 

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going to modify heat shield to accept 2 inch pipe. intake air temps went to mid 60's it is 15-20 degrees out, I would say that is pretty good, but with water temps at 195 I would say a direct connect could get air temps up to 100 or so, at least I would hope so.
 

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Here in Canada at Canadian Tire, I saw they had flexible exhaust tubing. I assume this will work? 2" was one of the diameters. A hose clamp will work to secure it to the stock elbow. Any secrets on how to fasten the end near the cat?

I am new to this, but why is there a second opening in the stock elbow? Others have covered it up, some temporarily, others permanently.

Thanks.
 

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The second opening connects to a pipe that goes to the resonator chamber that is near the Driver side tire area. People cover this up, because if you dont then the intake will just suck in normal air from that hole instead of the hot air from the Exhaust.

On my warm intake mod, I actually re- used that same flexible hose that goes to the resonator, and attached it in the place where you would connect the metal tubing. But the stock resonator pipe, not being metal, you have to make sure it doesn't get too close to the cat, just close enough to get hot air.
 

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I just covered it up with duct tape, I am going to fabricate a hole with a metal 2 inch sleeve on the heat shield and attach my metal flex pipe to that. My temps yesterday were as high as 72 degrees air intake, outside temp 20 degrees, water temp 192. I am pretty pleased as my fuel economy went from 47 to 61, it seems like I could have done even better if temp was higher but car did respond much better to warmed air on the intake. Such an improvement for a 10 minute job!!!
 

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This was my lastest update to the automatic warm air intake mod back in April 2009 from the initial post:

http://www.insightcentral.net/forum...8614-automatic-warm-air-intake-very-long.html

I moved some parts around so they are much different compared to the original posting at the beginning of the posting.

I took more pictures and replaced them using the same name so older links will still work but will contain the newest pics.

To make it easy for viewing, here are just the pics of the update.

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake01.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake02.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake03.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake04.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake05.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake06.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake07.jpg

The tube that goes from the cat to the air mixer is now all one piece that goes under the battery. It is wrapped with tons of duct tape for stength and some insulating value. After the initial duct tape wrapping of several layers, there are two layers of insulation tape (R2 value for each layer), then another wrapping of duct tape as a final layer. So I know that it is at least R5 value or more with all of the wrappings.

I was able to shorten the length of the insulated tube by repositioning the angle of the warm air inlet 180 degress from the stock part so now the inlet faces the rear of the car.

Also, the metal air mixer is double layered insulated as well.

I can achieve temps beyond 100F even when outside temps are in the 20s (New Hampshire)...It was 7F ( -11 windchill) yesterday and a short trip to the store already got to 60F (it was a short trip without much time to get very warmed up).

I have a winter time setting that when it gets above 100F it starts to mix with cold air.... :smile: So I don't know the max temp that it can get to.

In the summer time, I have another bi-metal sensor that is set to open at appox 77F to let cooler air in at a lower temp. I just change the vacuum line to the summer or winter sensor and the rest is automatic. :)

I figure the pics with the heat sheild may give you some ideas of how to attach the hose.

JoeCVT = Just your average CVT owner
 

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...The second opening connects to a pipe that goes to the resonator chamber that is near the Driver side tire area. People cover this up, because if you dont then the intake will just suck in normal air from that hole instead of the hot air from the Exhaust...
Just a heads-up. Covering up the resonator hole will reduce your low end power.

See the following link for more details...

http://www.insightcentral.net/forum...-issues/13760-how-build-hot-air-intake-2.html

Jim.
 

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Ok, this has been helpful as I have been looking for ways to improve my mileage in these cold months. I have been averaging 4.5 L/100km or about 52 mpg in my 2001 MT.

I have snow tires and no warm air intake or rad block. (The rad block will be next).

So, it seems that the best solution is to leave the elbow as is (connected to the resonator) and route the intake across the front and around the passenger side of the motor to the cat.

I will try and work on that.

Thanks everyone.
 
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