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Has anyone else had a warpage problem with rear brake drums?
We took our Insight in for an oil change and tire rotation (37K).
When we got it back it was making a noise, rear drums egg shaped they told us. Note; we are extremely light brakers. First cost $140 to turn drums, I complained that it did not make noise before and they did the repair for $70. At first I thought that reasonable. Two days later I'm having tires rotated on my VW Bus and comment on the fact they are using a torque wrench to tighten lugs.
The guy a counter tells me it is because of warpage problems with new light weight drums. I immediately head to Honda and relay this information to general manager. While there I talk to the mechanic who did our brake repair and while talking to him he installs a wheel on a Honda using and air impact wrench. I am waiting to hear from the GM on what he will do!

Wonder if anyone has more information or personal feedback?

Thanks David
 
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In an idea world wheels should be done up using a torque wrench all of the time.

I know I always use one.

The tyre place I use also uses a torque wrenc, it's just good practise.
 

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An impact wrench should NEVER be used to tighten any nut on a car, unless it is a huge, torque insensitive one (the big flywheel nut on the RX-7 comes to mind). As far as I know, there are no nuts that fit that description on the Insight. Fun fact is that using an impact wrench to tighten anything at a BMW dealership is grounds for immediate dismissal.
 
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Funny thing is that we use them to tighten the wheels on our race cars at pitstops, still that's a totally different story.
 

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I have had a smiliar issue where an impact wrench was used on my poor Insight. At 2700 miles the air vents refused to stay pointed so they thought it a very reasonable warranty claim at the dealership so I had them fix it. Well they quoted me only a fer hours to get it done, but they had neglected to look up how long it would take to replace the part and the car was there all day. Anyways I got it back and everything seemed ok, but I recently had things apart to inspect the work. In addition to breaking the lower and upper plastic pieces that are behind the steering wheel and not replacing them they used an impact wrench on everything. I went to pull the steering wheel off and it took me holding the wheel with all my might and another person with a socket wrench with an extension on it pushing with all his might to break the nut loose that holds the steering wheel on the spline. Estimating it there was probably 100 foot pounds (at least it felt like it) on that little bolt which is spec'd at 29 ft pounds. This was after nearly stripping out the T30 torx bolts that hold the air bag in and I had to replace them the next time it came off. So yeah, it's not just you, this is why I don't much trust dealerships. They try to get things done as quickly as possible to maximize thier profit, but tend to sacrafice quality of the work in the process. Now I wouldn't think they are using an impact wrench on your oil pan but do you really thing they take the torque wrench out every time they change your oil?
 

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Rick said:
Now I wouldn't think they are using an impact wrench on your oil pan but do you really thing they take the torque wrench out every time they change your oil?
Off hand, do you know what the oil drain plug is supposed to be torqued to?
 

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Impact wrench will not only warp your drums it will also warp rotors and rims. My son's aluminum rims were ruined on his mustang by an idiot dealer. No reimbursement without a lawsuit.
good luc
Rick
 

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SeanW said:
Rick said:
Now I wouldn't think they are using an impact wrench on your oil pan but do you really thing they take the torque wrench out every time they change your oil?
Off hand, do you know what the oil drain plug is supposed to be torqued to?
What should the wheels be torqued to?
 

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ncnightowl said:
SeanW said:
Rick said:
Now I wouldn't think they are using an impact wrench on your oil pan but do you really thing they take the torque wrench out every time they change your oil?
Off hand, do you know what the oil drain plug is supposed to be torqued to?
What should the wheels be torqued to?
It took a while to find but on page 18-6 of the Service Manual it says "108 N-m (11.0 kg-m, 80 lbf-ft)".

The next time I rotate the tires I also plan to add a little anti-seize to the threads to prevent future problems. To date, the only work I have had done on the car by the dealer (or any shop for that matter) has been the recalls and yearly State inspection that requires the removal of one wheel. I change my oil, rotate my tires and plan to change the anti-freeze at three years as required for the 2000's (2001's get 10 years until the first anti-freeze change - go figure). I have not had any problems at the dealer but all of the horror stories about too much oil added during a change, over torquing of bolts and drain plugs, etc. scares me from even giving them one chance at it.
 

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rschaffrath said:
ncnightowl said:
SeanW said:
Rick said:
Now I wouldn't think they are using an impact wrench on your oil pan but do you really thing they take the torque wrench out every time they change your oil?
Off hand, do you know what the oil drain plug is supposed to be torqued to?
What should the wheels be torqued to?
It took a while to find but on page 18-6 of the Service Manual it says "108 N-m (11.0 kg-m, 80 lbf-ft)".

<snip>
Thanks Robert! :)
 

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Mark Elvin said:
Funny thing is that we use them to tighten the wheels on our race cars at pitstops, still that's a totally different story.
Yeah, but that's a little bit of a different situation. Speed is important, years of longevity is not. Also, depending on the wheels used, you probably just have one big nut in the center. :D
 
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That's roght, one mother of a big nut. They do occasionally work loose, but not a problem as the FIA deem it neccesary yto run a secondary locking device.
 
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