Refused oil change?!?

1. go buy some 0w20 mobil 1 from wherever you can get it. NAPA still has several thousand quarts in their system.

2. dont take your car back to those idiots! you wont blow up your engine by using an oil that is just slightly thicker when the engine is stone cold. morons!!!!!

3. do your own oil change and get to know your car!

andy g.

Hogwash...

Anytime any self-appointed expert gives me a line similar to that, I ask for their name (or read it off their shirt), then I say something to the effect of, "so, [idiot's name], when I call your home office for confirmation, and I tell them you're passing up legitimate business because of your vast knowledge [of this subject], they'll be OK with this, right?"

Then enjoy the back-pedaling... :lol:

In BoogetyLand, inane statements like those would result in immediate penalties of public slapping and forced sterilization... now, I just need to buy an island and declare sovereignty... :shock:

You can also buy the oil at your Honda dealership.

That so called slack mouth idiot may be your cars best friend. NEVER put anything but 0W20 oil in your engine. The bearing tolerances in the engine are .0001". Starting the cold engine with 5w oil is bad news.

Rick Lewis

cktman said:

NEVER put anything but 0W20 oil in your engine. The bearing tolerances in the engine are .0001". Starting the cold engine with 5w oil is bad news.

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Do you have an owners manual? While I agree that 0W20 is best, on page 160 of my owners manual it says:

"An oil with a viscosity of 0W-20 is preferred for optimum fuel economy and year-round protection in your Honda. A 5W-20 or 5W-30 oil may be used if 0W-20 is not available."

It also says:

"You may use a synthetic motor oil if it meets the same requirements as the specified oil: energy conserving, a service classification of SJ, and a weight of either 0W-20, 5W-20, or 5W-30."

It seems using an alternate oil isn't nearly as dire a situation as you believe. Though I personally plan to stick with 0W oil, if Honda says 5W-20 or 5W-30 are okay, I assume they know what they're talking about. If you live in a warm climate, I would think it's even less of an issue.

Thanks for clearing me up on this matter. I'm glad to hear that Honda say's it ok since it will open up other choices of oils if the Honda brand become unavailable..

Rick Lewis

Zach24702 said:

When I told them that I'd read on this site that the 5W/20W was also ok they said I'd be violating my warranty and would probably blow my engine. They also claimed that nobody but Honda makes the oil type that I need.

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Didn't we already have a post like this before? First off, nobody can refuse you service because it would void your warranty, that is for you to decide. Secondly, Mobil1 did make 0W-20 oil, now others make it. Thirdly, READ your owners manual so you know that 0w-20 oil is not the only weight oil that can be used in your car.

My read is that they did you a favor (out of their ignorance).

Since they obviously didn't know much about oil viscosity and engine protection did they know about magnesium oil pans :?:
Replacement of the drain plug crush washer :?:
The *critical* need to use proper care when tightening this plug :?: (its a $400 + repair to replace the oil pan)

Don't go back :!: :!: :!:

HTH!

I was just amazed that they actually said "sir we will not change the oil on this car". Even after I showed them the sticker from my first oil change that showed 5W20W oil was used. Even it would "void the warranty", its my warranty, not theirs. Oh well, goofy little place I guess. I'm going to find the 0W oil somewhere and then carry it with me to oil changes from now on.

Insightful Trekker said:

Replacement of the drain plug crush washer :?:

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This is just not that critical. I have the same crush washer on my 2001 CVT since when I bought it new.

Well I can gar-un-tee it ain't crushin no more.

So ask yourself what else takes the brunt of the tightening force :?:

( And I didn't say it was critical only how its tightened )

Help me? I'm dying over here...... :twisted: :twisted: :evil: Guh!

I suspect that Resist's fingers tired before he/she could start a second sentence stating that a different type of drain washer or system is used.

I vaguely remember an old post...

devin1955 said:

cktman said:

NEVER put anything but 0W20 oil in your engine. The bearing tolerances in the engine are .0001". Starting the cold engine with 5w oil is bad news.

Click to expand...

Do you have an owners manual? While I agree that 0W20 is best, on page 160 of my owners manual it says:

"An oil with a viscosity of 0W-20 is preferred for optimum fuel economy and year-round protection in your Honda. A 5W-20 or 5W-30 oil may be used if 0W-20 is not available."

Click to expand...

We could only get 0W-30. However, in the UK manual, this is listed as acceptable. I will try to get 0W-20 next time. Any pointers, UK people?

It also says:

"You may use a synthetic motor oil if it meets the same requirements as the specified oil: energy conserving, a service classification of SJ, and a weight of either 0W-20, 5W-20, or 5W-30."

Click to expand...

Shrug. It only said "suitable for VW cars".

Insightful Trekker said:

Replacement of the drain plug crush washer :?:
The *critical* need to use proper care when tightening this plug :?: (its a $400 + repair to replace the oil pan)

Click to expand...

Hmm, that was another thing. The washer on our car was "trapped" above the threads on the plug. It's not possible to remove it. It's a plain looking, solid washer. What does a crush washer look like?

Is this perhaps another variation, or is there meant to be a crush washer *as well* and it's missing? :evil:

I tightened the bolt to the recommended torque anyway.

Either your crush washer is missing or just stuck on. As I stated before my crusher has never been changed. If you don't over torque the oil drain bolt the crush washer shouldn't have to be changed. Sure it's a very inexpensive part but I really don't feel it's something you need to replace, at least not with every oil change. But if you are unsure of how tight you are cranking in the oil drain bolt, then change out your crush washer.

My read it that this washer is wayyyy overdue for replacement. Simply use some wire cutters and a screwdriver to remove it next time. There is some doubt as to the service manual being correct in its torque specification. A very fastidious member in Canada was diligent in torquing his plug (but didn't always replace the washer) and the threads failed after a few 10's of thousands of miles.

My recommendation is to replace the washer on each and every oil change and simply torque the bolt until you "feel" the washer begin to crush, then just a "nudge" more for tightness. My "calibrated" elbow tells me that this is slightly below the factory spec.

HTH!