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Discussion Starter #1
I am thinking about replacing the ECU and BCU since everything else has been replaced and still no power. (all indicators behave normal) It doesn't charge right either. When I replaced the IMA pack a couple years back with a parts yard part, I don't think the ECU or BCU was part of it.

I don't have a service manual, but I do remember that after I remove the aluminum shield, the IMA pack has a circuit breaker. Are there any other safety issues I need to know about? I don't plan on going any deeper if I don't need to.

As far as I know the muffler, ECU and BCU are the only parts never replaced. Wish I could just repair whatever's wrong with it.
 

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You know it's a shot in the dark, but you might call Honda and beg for the updated modules they're replacing for those select few states with the IMA warranty extension. They might say yes, I'd say it's worth a shot.

As far as replacing those two modules there really shouldn't be any extra special considerations aside from the usual IMA equipment precautions. Turn the breaker off and let it sit for a while, remove the cover and check for voltage with a meter to make sure it's safe. The two modules are right on top and will be easy to swap out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Would the same go for the entire IMA pack?

I looked at the parts catalog and the BCU is pretty straight forward, but the ECU box part number seems linked the entire drawing, and is listed as $1500 or so.

Can I throw the breaker, wait 15 minutes and pull the entire IMA pretty simlpy? Or is that a don't touch without proper equipment or you'll die kind of thing? The labor will kill me if the Amps don't :lol:
 

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Re: Would the same go for the entire IMA pack?

Not sure what your referring to in "pull(ing) the entire IMA". As you may be aware that implies _ALL_ the hybrid components of a Honda hybrid.

Replacement of the ECU is entirely separate from the hybrid components too. Its under the passenger's side floorboard at the firewall. The MCM & BCM "simply" reside within the 144v IMA "battery" box (under the rear hatch carpet) and will not require removal of the IMA battery pack for replacement.

But you've got to remove all the lid's bolts and there's plenty of them :!: Its then your potentially "exposed" to the full 144v's (in different and reasonably protected locations). Just don't touch or drop anything down into the case and you'll live to tell the tale :!: :shock: ;)

HTH! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK I meant the MCM

I really think there is a drain off (short) somewhere. I don't get the power or charging response I should. Wish there was a way to test this theory. I nkow if I run the AC for 5 minutes (sitting still), shut off and start driving...recal. I don't know enough about it to test for a short. The IMA does put out, but nowhere near where it should. I let NCnightowl drive it to confirm the issue. If I do replace the entire pack, is that something I can do safely? I've never opened the shield.
 

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Well Dan,

There are several posts by other members that describe their DIY expereinces. Try the forum search function.

Is it safe :?: Strictly speaking NO.

144v is deadly dangerous should you make the wrong electrical connection with your body. But not all electrical shocks are life threatening. I've been "shocked" dozens of times myself, so have you. Ever gotten one of those "ouch" static electric zaps :?: But without the requsite electrical knowledge of what is safe to do, or not, it can be left to the luck of the draw as to your life :!: :|

Should you spend the time to educate yourself in how to then the risks are minimal but not zero. An oops :oops: can have serious consequences even when you know that you shouldn't have just done that :!:

While its more work to do in two steps the MCM & BCM updates may still be the complete "fix" for your current situation. If not then it sounds like another 144v battery nearing the end of its service life. The red IMA light will illuminate and a code of death will be stored in 99% of cases when you get there.

HTH! :)
 

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Hey, dfiore, sorry I just noticed your thread.

I replaced my IMA battery a few weeks ago, talked about it in this thread:http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5059&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
I also posted some photos you might like to look at if you've never removed the IMA cover yourself.

Feel free to post specific questions about the procedure, I'll monitor this thread.

The main switch is under a small cover with two bolts - after you pull of the red plastic "lock" and flip it to the off position, replace the lock the other way, so you don't accidently flip it back on.

After I removed the 88 bolts attaching the main cover (I didn't count them :!: ) I checked the voltage at the main terminals, it was 2 Volts. Still, I wore heavy leather welding gloves when I got anywhere near the orange cables. Actually, when you get into the IMA, not all the high-voltage contacts are painted orange :!: :shock:

The MCM & BCM are right on top of the battery after removing the cover. It's just a matter of disconnecting the connectors and removing 6 or 8 bolts. Don't drop the bolts :!: :!: :!:

Go slowly and THINK before you do each step. :)

- Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Speaking of going slowly

Go slowly and THINK before you do each step
I really have my doubts that the pack is to blame. The first one did this too. It is just getting worse. I wish I knew someone that could help me check for shorts. My amp cuts off during decel/charging even if it isn't loud. There's something else going on there, I think.
 

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I wish I knew someone that could help me check for shorts.
Or a really, really good friend with an Insight, who would be willing to switch MCM or BCM with your car, to see if the problem disappears.

- Jim
 

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To bad I just moved here! :? I'm going to the dealer tomorro (taking a day off) so I can show them exactly what it's doing and go over with them.
 

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replace ecm and bcm

Hey, dfiore, sorry I just noticed your thread.

I replaced my IMA battery a few weeks ago, talked about it in this thread:http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5059&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
I also posted some photos you might like to look at if you've never removed the IMA cover yourself.

Feel free to post specific questions about the procedure, I'll monitor this thread.

The main switch is under a small cover with two bolts - after you pull of the red plastic "lock" and flip it to the off position, replace the lock the other way, so you don't accidently flip it back on.

After I removed the 88 bolts attaching the main cover (I didn't count them :!: ) I checked the voltage at the main terminals, it was 2 Volts. Still, I wore heavy leather welding gloves when I got anywhere near the orange cables. Actually, when you get into the IMA, not all the high-voltage contacts are painted orange :!: :shock:

The MCM & BCM are right on top of the battery after removing the cover. It's just a matter of disconnecting the connectors and removing 6 or 8 bolts. Don't drop the bolts :!: :!: :!:

Go slowly and THINK before you do each step. :)

- Jim
hi
starting with bcm and mcm replacement. but how do i get harness off the ecm and mcm? pushing on white tab? any help appreciated. ed.
 

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hi
starting with bcm and mcm replacement. but how do i get harness off the ecm and mcm? pushing on white tab? any help appreciated. ed.
As Peter said, there are tabs on the bottoms of the plugs. Squeeze and they'll come out. The BCM may be very tight, so unplug the orange cable, unbolt the bolts, swing the whole module up and you'll be able to remove them easily.


Then call me later if (when) the replacement BCM and MCM doesn't work.
 

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mcm and bcm replacement

hi
starting with bcm and mcm replacement. but how do i get harness off the ecm and mcm? pushing on white tab? any help appreciated. ed.
hi
thanks to input from the group, i was able to get harnesses loose and r/r both modules. seller recommends "relearn" now of battery-run engine at around 4000 rpm until battery indicating charged on meter. true? ed.
 

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hi
thanks to input from the group, i was able to get harnesses loose and r/r both modules. seller recommends "relearn" now of battery-run engine at around 4000 rpm until battery indicating charged on meter. true? ed.
Yes, but 3500 rpm is fine.

Disconnect 12V battery for 10 seconds and then reconnect.
Hold throttle at 3500 rpm and watch the four regen bars.
After about a minute they will go out.
Let go of the throttle and let it idle for another minute or so until the batter gauge stops moving.
 

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mcm bcm replacement

Yes, but 3500 rpm is fine.

Disconnect 12V battery for 10 seconds and then reconnect.
Hold throttle at 3500 rpm and watch the four regen bars.
After about a minute they will go out.
Let go of the throttle and let it idle for another minute or so until the batter gauge stops moving.
hi
just replaced my bcm and mcm modules with known good ones after my 2000 insight scanned bcm defective. did relearn-3500 for 10 minutes-no charge showing, no battery bars. now what? any help appreciated. ed.
 

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What exactly where the error codes that told you you had a defective bcm?

Did you turn main switch back on? Easily forgotten. Do you have any error codes now? IMA light on/off? Flash the codes out and post them here so we can help more accurately.
 

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What exactly where the error codes that told you you had a defective bcm?

Did you turn main switch back on? Easily forgotten. Do you have any error codes now? IMA light on/off? Flash the codes out and post them here so we can help more accurately.
hi
thanks for reply. yes, main switch is back on with clip on it. ima light not on. only thing on dash is eps-electronic power steering.
i took car to honda dealership where we bought it. they scanned it 3 times and showed me p1568 battery control module defective. i do not know how to flash the codes out.
thanks. ed.
 

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