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Help! I just return from the holidays and went to reset my MPG and Odometer and they will not reset. I tried to hold down the reset button and go back to zero and nothing happens. I also can not go to trip 1 or 2.
Can anyone please help. I don't want to take the car into the dealer. Thank you for your time and help.

Mike
 

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mike said:
Help! I just return from the holidays and went to reset my MPG and Odometer and they will not reset. I tried to hold down the reset button and go back to zero and nothing happens. I also can not go to trip 1 or 2.
Can anyone please help. I don't want to take the car into the dealer. Thank you for your time and help.

Mike
Make sure your FCD button hasn't been pushed to on.
 

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can you clarify what you mean by FCD hasn't been pushed to on?

I just got my 2006 insight last wednesday, and I am aching to reset the trips! but my button doesn't work, and in the same exact way mike says his doesn't. the dealer is pissed at me because I gave them a very hard time to get this car before the end of the year, and I'd really like to not go back so soon.

thanks!
 

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On the left side of your dash is a FCD, Fuel Consumption Display, button which is in essence another trip odometer. If it is on, your regular trip odometers, A & B, cannot be reset. Read about it in your manual.
 

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I'll look it up when I get out to the car tonight - but essentially, and this is basically from hitting buttons, the FCD button switches between the lifetime FCD and the trip FCD. when the trip FCD is showing I hit the trip button on the right of the display nothing happens, it doesn't switch between A and B.

I did check the manual earlier, but it says all I have to do to reset the trip display (or to switch between A and B) is to hold down the trip button - so I hit the FCD button until the trip display is showing, and hold down the trip button, and nothing happens.

Thanks for your help -
 

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it's hard to overcome years of engineering training and practice that tells me I can figure it out on my own! ;) I'll put it back on my bedside table so I can really get into it.
 

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kari said:
it's hard to overcome years of engineering training and practice that tells me I can figure it out on my own! ;) I'll put it back on my bedside table so I can really get into it.
I feel your pain.... :wink:
 

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kari said:
when the trip FCD is showing I hit the trip button on the right of the display nothing happens, it doesn't switch between A and B.
When the FCD is on you will see arrows similar to "<===>" by the bar graph for your MPG, at this time you cannot access your trip A and B. You must press the FCD button again to turn it off so it shows your lifetime mileage and odometer readings, then you can press the trip button to toggle trip A and B as well as resetting them.

Enjoy your new Insight!
 

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I don't think this thread is dead yet. Both my trip button and the mph/kmh button don't work, or are very intermittent. And it's not because I don't understand how they coordinate with the FCD button. I definitely am in the odometer display when pushing the trip button (not the "segment" display with the <===> symbol displayed.)

Note: call it the segment display, not the trip display, because the displays: odometer, trip A and trip B are three alternatives controlled by the trip button when in odometer mode as controlled by the FCD button. That is the FCD button toggles between odometer mode and segment mode.

I think it might be corrosion under the grounds. Cleaning the battery ground to frame connection seemed to help a problem with the fuel gauge. So I am going to clean some of the other grounds, before I pull the gauge/instrument cluster. When I cleaned the battery ground to frame connection, I found either gray primer or silver paint under the connector. So I scraped and sanded that off (I don't want to rely on the bolt and the top of the connector to make the ground.) I say this seems to have helped, the verdict is still out.

Note that battery terminals often develop a thin film of corrosion between the post and the connector. It doesn't seem like much, but in a high current situation (cranking to start) it matters. But in this case, I wouldn't have thought that a little corrosion on the grounds would matter.

An aluminum car doesn't solve all the corrosion problems, and might even have more corrosion problems due to galvanic action. My car was originally from Michigan where salt is used on the road and has rather bad corrosion problems all over the car, including most of the steel bolts in the engine compartment. The engine to frame ground cable was corroded and broke.

Even the dealer (well the service coordinator, the greeter) couldn't get the trip button to reset the "Maintenance required" light. And they said that the tech couldn't do it any other way, it definitely requires the trip button to be functional.

If I do pull the gauge cluster, I'm hoping the switch is accessible for cleaning or replacement. Anyone seen the thing up close?
 

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Assuming the proper steps are being used, there have been people that had a problem with the button contacts getting worn. Some believe the problem starts when the button is pushed down hard over a period of time and the contacts do not make contact anymore. It will probably get worse the harder you push until one day, it just doesn't work anymore. I think the buttons (one side of the contacts) are an integral part of the dash assembly. I have never taken the assembly out myself. Since the time I read about the possible problem, I have only tried to push down as lightly as possible to make contact in order to possibly prolong the problem that may arise in the future.

JoeCVT - Just your average CVT owner
 

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The problem likely is that the trip and FCD buttons contacts have developed some corrosion. My silver R&D Insight which had been totaled at 150K due to some flood damage had the same problem. The contacts began to work normally after I repeatedly pressed the trip and FCD buttons to wipe off some of the corrosion. It took hundreds of presses to get it to work every time.

The FCD switch is a plug in assembly that is fastened to the rear of the dash bezel, and the trip switch is built onto the guage PC board and requires a guage cluster removal to access.
Good Luck
 

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Yes, I agree, probably contact corrosion, not ground corrosion. I would hope the switch was designed so the contacts wouldn't bend if you pressed it too hard.

I still want to know if someone has had the switch out. I have the service manuals. Looks like the gauge cluster is a big plastic box. Do you have to crack it open to get to the circuit board and switch? Even if you get access, is the switch a sealed unit?

Or, does the button/cap come off? Looks to me like it must, since it looks larger than the hole in the plexiglas cover. If so, I would forego the dissasembly and squirt some contact cleaner down the shaft then give it the hundred toggles you suggest.

(Your car totalled by flood before you got it, or after?)
 

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It was totaled before I got it.
The flood wet the rugs, but never reached the ECM or other electronics.

The car only needed a new AC compressor clutch bearing, a new 12V battery, and the only other issue was the inoperable switches.

the FCD switch is mounted to the front plastic dash, which comes out easily once the few Philip screws in the instrument cluster are removed.
The guage switches are a bit hard to get to, and are part of the guage cluster.
 

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Basically, the contact in the button on the board is worn out. I've had these apart a number of times due to this problem, and inop led's. I bought a gauge pod for parts, and the other 3 buttons on the pod are exactly the same as the reset button (stylewise.) It's a matter of simple pc board work, switching out the dead button on the board for one of the barely used ones from the kph/mph, or + or - brightness buttons from the donor pod. One dead gauge pod gives you at least 3 good (hardly used) buttons....It seems about 1/4 to 1/3 of the insights I've had have this problem, just from wear....
 
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