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I'm looking at an Insight that spent a significant amount of time in the salty mid-west. Everything that is made of iron is rusting. There is evidence of both fuel and brake lines being patched. Suspension bits, engine bits, everything is rusty.

The car needs a bunch of other work to make it nice, most of which doesn't concern me (apart from the cost). Anyone with experience with a car like this? Should I run away or not be too concerned?

Here's a lousy picture. Not sure if the link will work.

https://images.craigslist.org/00k0k_kUe8RiS2exE_1200x900.jpg

Thanks.
 

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Um. No offense intended here, but you are just seeing some iron oxide on the heads of the bolts. That is not a big deal at all.

The insight is aluminum. It doesn't corrode. I purchased my car SPECIFICALLY because it won't ever rust out, or, if it does, it will take decades.

Yes, fuel lines and brake lines are steel, and can rust, but I coat mine with Boshield T9 every year to help protect them.

You are coming across as someone who is super ignorant about cars, has only leased brand new cars, and sees some slight surface rust on the heads of bolts as a 'rusty' car.

If that is a rusty car, I would hate for you to come to Wisco and see what WE call rusty cars. This is not a rusty car imho.
 

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Um, no I've never leased a car and I understand what an Insight is. I've nut and bolt restored cars and replaced all kinds of rusty steel parts under a car, straighten and repaired frames. I used to work on beach cars in Florida and grew up in Indiana so I know what corrosion looks looks like. It's a lot of work. I guess my point was why travel when you can find one locally, with possibly fewer corrosion issues. I've only ever purchased 2 brand new cars in my life. I saw the slight corrosion on the crappy picture, but you could also be looking at fuel lines braked lines rear suspension, front suspension. I will FREELY admit everyone on this site knows more than I on this car. I had 2 thru my dealerships and now I'm interested in having one and researching all I can. But I'll throw down with anyone on automotive knowledge. I appreciate we all are entitled to our opinion. Offense taken. Check my profile, which is what you should've done before throwing me under the bus.
 

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I'm not talking to you, I'm talking to the OP. Calm your tits.
 

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Sometimes it is beneficial to name the person the conversation is directed to at the begining of the post. It keeps the anger down a little.

Willie
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Of course the body is aluminum and plastic. However, every bolt is steel, every screw, every line, suspension parts, etc. I was looking for advice from someone who had direct experience with this type of car. That's all.

This car has already had failures in the fuel and brake lines. Use that as a metric for how rusty it is. The ABS module is covered in flaky rust. What I could see of the rear suspension arms were rusty. Other engine accessories were heavily rusted (what was perhaps a timing chain tensioner? Front pass. side of engine). This wasn't just some surface rust on some bolts.

Saying "no offense" before insulting someone by calling them "super ignorant" does not make it better.
 

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@jbyoungis

ADDvanced, like to come on forum and spout bad information, consider himself some type of expert and plagiarize information to try to make himself appear like he knows how to do things when he does not.

He had a problem with his car and it took him almost 2 years to read the codes and post them. He couldn’t understand how a code for a temperature sending unit could cause all the problems. I posted why and the fix, not really for him, but to help all the other members of the forum. I explained how difficult the access was to the sending unit, he said he knew where it was located. Later he came back on here and whines about how hard it was to access.

In another post, regarding body repair he told someone they didn’t know what they were doing about body repair. He posted quite a comprehensive post about the body and paint process. I read it and thought wow, that’s pretty spot on. I’ve been doing body and paint repair now for about 37 years, I’m ASE Certified in body, paint, frame and a few other areas. Later, ADD got a new compressor and posted asking questions about painting his car and did he need to use primer?
It was obvious he had plagiarized information from somewhere else.

Any posts from ADD need to be considered as bad advise or misinformation.

jbyoungis, please continue to contribute to the form. Your experiences from working in the business are valuable to the others here.

Scott
 

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That car is no more worse than the one I own from the picture. The major issues you will run into is having to go SLOW with taking the bolts out and you will have to replace a bunch of them. The steel bolts will be locked into the aluminum parts so you will need to walk the bolts out instead of just pulling them out. Erm be mindful of the knock sensor it brakes if someone near you farts. It's easy to build brake line and cheap to do fuel lines. If you can change a brake caliper, you can do those repairs easily. If you have never built brake lines ask for a roll of the copper brake line, it's more forgiving than the steel line by far but twice as expensive. You can rent the brake line tool from any parts store. Fuel lines can use brake line just match the size or the 6is dollar a foot fuel injection line just make sure you secure it. Having that said if it's mechanicly sound ish, and it's not to expensive I'd do it. YouTube how to build the lines and take about 4 two inch pices of the roll and practice first.
 

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It looks about like mine, maybe slightly worse. I've had my current car for going on 5 years now?

If it doesn't snap coming out, I apply grease to every bolt I put back in... that steel/aluminum interface is pretty obnoxious sometimes.

For instance, if you want to align it, you'll pretty much guaranteed have to replace the tie rods as they'll be totally seized. I've been avoiding this by avoiding potholes :p.

If the price is right, it's fine. If the price isn't right, then it's not. That's what it all boils down to IMO.
 

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@jbyoungis

ADDvanced, like to come on forum and spout bad information, consider himself some type of expert and plagiarize information to try to make himself appear like he knows how to do things when he does not.

He had a problem with his car and it took him almost 2 years to read the codes and post them. He couldn’t understand how a code for a temperature sending unit could cause all the problems. I posted why and the fix, not really for him, but to help all the other members of the forum. I explained how difficult the access was to the sending unit, he said he knew where it was located. Later he came back on here and whines about how hard it was to access.

In another post, regarding body repair he told someone they didn’t know what they were doing about body repair. He posted quite a comprehensive post about the body and paint process. I read it and thought wow, that’s pretty spot on. I’ve been doing body and paint repair now for about 37 years, I’m ASE Certified in body, paint, frame and a few other areas. Later, ADD got a new compressor and posted asking questions about painting his car and did he need to use primer?
It was obvious he had plagiarized information from somewhere else.

Any posts from ADD need to be considered as bad advise or misinformation.

jbyoungis, please continue to contribute to the form. Your experiences from working in the business are valuable to the others here.

Scott
You made a **** ton of accusations and I'm going to defend myself.

My problem was INTERMITTENT, which was why it was difficult to diagnose. I also moved cities, lived in an apartment, purchased a house, then rehabbed a garage to make a suitable wrenching environment while my car was FUNCTIONAL but not optional. Sometimes it would work perfectly, for weeks at a time. Othertimes, it would refuse to start once hot, and NOBODY here had an answer for me, including you! Once my garage had nice floor, lighting, and a work bench, I started digging into things. I replaced the sensor myself, which was a PITA, and it solved the problem. I then updated every single post I had related to intermittent issues and posted how I solved them, which was related to my faulty temp sender.

Secondly, I went to school for industrial design. We had to learn how to do paint/body on appearance models, and automotive is the same process. I restored my S6 years ago, and was heavily involved in the paint process, but that was done BY professional painters. I disassembled the car, had it stripped, primered, straightened, base coat, color coat, clear coated 6x, then I reassembled the car myself and wetsanded/polished it out. I know the process, when you are starting from scratch. My question about primer was related to DO I NEED A PRIMER if I am respraying my car, over the top coat of EXISTING paint. There is a difference between doing something from scratch, versus puting a top coat on an already existing color coat, and as you said, I am not an ASE certified body guy so I asked a question about it, and now you're busting my balls?

Eat a ****.

Edit: And since we are apparently enemies now, I would like to state that Scott sold me a $20 fumoto valve that did not fit my insight at all, it was the wrong diameter and wrong thread. He said he'd refund me if I shipped it back to him. Yeah, okay, lose money on shipping too for something I didn't screw up. Belly pan is good tho, but i think it's stupid you didn't put an access hole for the drain plug and filter.
 

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That car is no more worse than the one I own from the picture. The major issues you will run into is having to go SLOW with taking the bolts out and you will have to replace a bunch of them. The steel bolts will be locked into the aluminum parts so you will need to walk the bolts out instead of just pulling them out. Erm be mindful of the knock sensor it brakes if someone near you farts. It's easy to build brake line and cheap to do fuel lines. If you can change a brake caliper, you can do those repairs easily. If you have never built brake lines ask for a roll of the copper brake line, it's more forgiving than the steel line by far but twice as expensive. You can rent the brake line tool from any parts store. Fuel lines can use brake line just match the size or the 6is dollar a foot fuel injection line just make sure you secure it. Having that said if it's mechanicly sound ish, and it's not to expensive I'd do it. YouTube how to build the lines and take about 4 two inch pices of the roll and practice first.
I replaced most of the fuel lines in my S6 with plastic lines and compression fittings. Roll of plastic tubing was $20 from mcmaster, and will never corrode, ever.
 

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You made a **** ton of accusations and I'm going to defend myself.

My problem was INTERMITTENT, which was why it was difficult to diagnose. I also moved cities, lived in an apartment, purchased a house, then rehabbed a garage to make a suitable wrenching environment while my car was FUNCTIONAL but not optional. Sometimes it would work perfectly, for weeks at a time. Othertimes, it would refuse to start once hot, and NOBODY here had an answer for me, including you! Once my garage had nice floor, lighting, and a work bench, I started digging into things. I replaced the sensor myself, which was a PITA, and it solved the problem. I then updated every single post I had related to intermittent issues and posted how I solved them, which was related to my faulty temp sender.

Secondly, I went to school for industrial design. We had to learn how to do paint/body on appearance models, and automotive is the same process. I restored my S6 years ago, and was heavily involved in the paint process, but that was done BY professional painters. I disassembled the car, had it stripped, primered, straightened, base coat, color coat, clear coated 6x, then I reassembled the car myself and wetsanded/polished it out. I know the process, when you are starting from scratch. My question about primer was related to DO I NEED A PRIMER if I am respraying my car, over the top coat of EXISTING paint. There is a difference between doing something from scratch, versus puting a top coat on an already existing color coat, and as you said, I am not an ASE certified body guy so I asked a question about it, and now you're busting my balls?

Eat a ****.

Edit: And since we are apparently enemies now, I would like to state that Scott sold me a $20 fumoto valve that did not fit my insight at all, it was the wrong diameter and wrong thread. He said he'd refund me if I shipped it back to him. Yeah, okay, lose money on shipping too for something I didn't screw up. Belly pan is good tho, but i think it's stupid you didn't put an access hole for the drain plug and filter.
It’s hard for you to back pedal and try to make your self look better.

Intermittent problem, that took two years to post codes? Doesn’t matter where you live to get codes read.

You have continually come here on the forum and tried to make yourself an expert when you are clearly not. All one has to do is pull up papers by you and they will understand.

Thanks for the compliment on the belly panel. As a designer you know how to identify quality, but seem to not understand why there isn’t other holes cut in the panel. I guess you missed that day of class at design school.

You also come here on the forum and continue to call people names and use inappropriate language. Again this just to show your ignorance and lack of professionalism. As a moderator I can delete or edit it, but choose to leave it so forum members can see your true colors.

Regarding your Fumoto valve, I addressed your issues as you seem to think your oil pan was different. There has only been one part number for a gen 1 oil pan. Your pan was stripped and has an oversized drain plug. Again, showing your ignorance.

Hey Rob, have a great day.

Scott
 

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The picture below is the one you sent me with the Fumoto valve and an over sized non OE drain plug.

The other picture is of an OE drain plug and a Timesert that I sent you at the time.
 

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I'm looking at an Insight that spent a significant amount of time in the salty mid-west. Everything that is made of iron is rusting. There is evidence of both fuel and brake lines being patched. Suspension bits, engine bits, everything is rusty.

The car needs a bunch of other work to make it nice, most of which doesn't concern me (apart from the cost). Anyone with experience with a car like this? Should I run away or not be too concerned?

Here's a lousy picture. Not sure if the link will work.

https://images.craigslist.org/00k0k_kUe8RiS2exE_1200x900.jpg

Thanks.
Here's a car that has been on & off the S. Fla craigslist since Feb 2019. It appears to a nice car and is close enough for you to drive over and take a look at it:

https://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/cto/d/west-palm-beach-honda-insight-manual-5/6891551372.html

No under the hood picture of the engine though. Since the pictures seem to have been taken near a private airfield it would appear that the car is stored most of the year by a snow bird.

Just assume the battery will need to be grid charged, discharged, charged again before trying to use it. Ask the owner if the IMA battery has been changed (and when) and if he/she has a grid charger/discharger.

I would be hesitant to even test drive it if the IMA battery was allowed to sit from Feb until now without at least being grid charge first.

Either way for a 2000 model and over 150,000 miles the price is a little high for this area.

If you are not all that familiar about what to look for when looking for a MT Insight I have an article on my website with hints.
 

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Better jump on it. That is one of those RARE 4 Cyl G1 Insights.
 

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Did they have a 4 cyl version?
Only for sellers that don't know what engine they have when the fill out the craigslist seller's form.

Usually used car lots are the guilty parties that don't count intake runners or spark plug coils etc because listing a G1 Insight isn't up for sale that often.

4 cylinders is definitely not stock.

I would tread carefully, if the seller doesn't know the engine how can he be so sure the IMA battery is OK?
 
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