Bummer! My beloved 2000 Insight, with 285K on it (182K of it mine) was on the road when it started showing extreme overheating - 2 bars into the red, then 3 (the max) after pulling over and shutting off the engine as soon as possible. The next day, drove it in two short stints to a dealer, not getting into red, and cooling off between legs. Dealer says the radiator is all blocked up, and it looks like someone put Stop Leak in there, gunking it up (said they saw gunk in the overflow resevoir and the radiator itself). They also say the compression measures 160 on one cylinder and 55 on the other two, so they kindly offered to drop a used engine in there for only $4500 (plus new radiator costs)! Uh, no. Now, on the way to the dealer, it did run unevenly, and with significantly less power than usual. But, I've never put anything like that in the radiator in the time I've had it - could it take 185K miles to manifest? And, 160 seems high for a compression number to me, can anybody verify that's a real number? A friend will help me tow the car home tomorrow, and I'll do my own compression check, but unless the dealer's totally bogus, I'm looking at a radiator replacement, and probably a head removal and valve replacement. Given that I agree the radiator looks bad, I'll start by replacing that (needing to use, evidently, the "magic burping procedure"), but I haven't done an engine rebuild in exactly 40 years, although I'm comfortable enough doing another one, and I still have some tools. But, not sure if (a) I can do the valves myself (I sorta doubt it), or if one needs special tools (I think so, like a valve spring compressor, and/or a valve guide removal tool, or what else?), (b) if I should just take the head to a machine shop, and if so, whether I should supply them the parts, or ask them to get the parts themselves, and (c) whether, with 285K on the engine, it would be reasonable to just do the upper end (valves) and leave the lower end alone, or whether I should consider checking and possibly replacing the main and rod bearings, and rings, as well. A new head assembly runs something like $900 from one source, which seems high, but not sure how high costs of rebuilding the one I have could go. Finally, if the head shows up warped, would that change things significantly (I suppose I could check for that myself)? Does anyone have any guidance (and/or commiseration)?