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Any thoughts about a permanent harness for the car?

I'm thinking a DC fuse and a small 12v relay, similar to RL1 on the schematic, installed close to the high voltage attachment point on the 144v battery. To discharge the battery, 12v would be applied to the relay which would then connect the Simple Cycler HV Battery Connection points, or alternatively, to a permanently mounted 300-400 ohm 100 watt resistor in the IPU compartment.

Any other ideas?

I'm hesitant to have a live high voltage harness in the car all the time, just in case of an accident.
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Every other discharger on the market has to have a permanent live. We have to live with it.

It's no big deal if you fuse the connection at the + point on the battery with a 1A dc rated fuse, use double insulated wire, decent connectors and route the wire sensibly to the plug/socket.
 

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Peter:
I have my unit completed...sorry I havent given you feedback yet. I have been VERY busy at work and unable to do my first discharge. Am looking at maybe first of next week. I will post results.
 

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Is there a schematic for the LCD version? I'm putting together my parts list and would like to order those parts at the same time. Also, have the boards changed now that there is the LED version?
 

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Using the Correct Schematics for your type of build.

Just to clarify

For those of us that buy one of Peter's Simple Cycler boards with the intent of building the LCD version.
Please use this schematic named LCD version.

If you have purchased the Board from Peter with the intent of Building the LED Version
Please use this schematic Named LED version.

For clarity in this thread you will see the terms "Simple Cycler" and "Simpler Cycler"

"Simple Cycler refers to the LCD version
"Simpler Cycler" refers to the LED version

Dave
 

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Thank-you for the LCD schematic Honda Dave.

When I built my OBDIIC&C board, I remember it had several connections between the LCD and the logic board. It must have been a parallel connection. Having the schematic posted is a great help. My level of expertise with electronics is enough to get me in trouble when I start guessing. :D
 

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I've been working on a USA parts list for the LED version. I found everything at Mouser except the case, constant current LED power supplies, and the 300-400 Ohm 100 watt resistor (ebay for these). No plugs or wires are on the list. I don't have a board yet to build, so this list may not be 100% correct, but it should provide a reference to start from:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByZgwZkDsAG2Wk1uTEtNWlJFRlE/edit?usp=sharing

Please note there is an error on the parts list I posted above:

** R7 needs to be 390K ohms (not 390 ohms) **

Also, the Phoenix Contacts Mouser Part #651-1725656 are the wrong quantity. I thought the same ones were used throughout the board, but you only need one of these with 2.54mm spaced pins for the 12v load fan....not 12.

The ones that the power supplies connect to the board as well as the HV Battery and AC connections require 5mm spaced pin connectors if you choose to use them. There are 11 of them on the board if you utilize all the LED power supplies. You don't have to have them.. Part#651-1707205 .. you could just solder the wires to the board, or you might find less expensive ones.

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #191
Yes but it on the back burner like everything else as I'm moving house.

Honda Dave can probably recommend his best version of the software.
 

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Yeah this is the code for the LCD version.
Dave.
Edit: if your prefer a more gentle approach to the discharge down to 10volts use the custom code I made for bornloser a few posts back.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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I'm not sure how I missed this before... must have been too busy wiring audio amplifiers and such. With my IMA going dead, it stoked a fire under my extruder unit to investigate options to hopefully squeeze some more life out of the pack and get my MPGs back up to normal.

Peter, if you have a PCB for this available, I'd like to exchange some funds for it.
 

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Preventing Overcharge/venting of cells

I'm currently cycling my battery manually with a dumb grid charger and a 300 ohm resistor. I'm on my third cycle re-charge, but my car had previously thrown a P1449 code and quit using the NiMH battery. I've tried to clear the code with the OBDII...if I don't start the engine and just turn the ignition to "on" the code appears to be erased, but when I start the engine the IMA light and code immediately reappear. I believe I will have to reset the Insight's system by pulling a fuse or disconnecting the 12v battery to correct this. When I reset it, the car will initiate a forced charge into the battery for a period of time.

If I top off the battery to 174 volts or so on the final charge, and the car starts putting in another 5-8 amps of charge for a period of time, I'm concerned that I will overcharge the cells and possibly cause them to vent. Anyone have a thought on preventing this, or is my thinking incorrect?

What would be my best course of action in this situation? Stop the final charge at 160-165v and then pull the fuse or battery cable to reset the car?

Finish the charge to 174v and then discharge to 160-165v before resetting?

Some other method?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
 

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Don't worry about it. Top off and reset. Hybrid Automotive recommends waiting 30 minutes after grid charger disconnect, and I like to wait a few hours, but it really doesn't matter. You're only going to vent if you exceed 140°F, and it's highly unlikely you'll hit that in a couple minutes of what amounts to a 1C charge rate. Pretty sure the car will cut-off based on temps even after a reset.

Steve
 

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....You're only going to vent if you exceed 140°F, and it's highly unlikely you'll hit that in a couple minutes of what amounts to a 1C charge rate....
Venting can happen at normal temperatures, it's not a temperature-based phenom...
 

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When I reset it, the car will initiate a forced charge into the battery for a period of time.If I top off the battery to 174 volts or so on the final charge, and the car starts putting in another 5-8 amps of charge for a period of time, I'm concerned that I will overcharge the cells and possibly cause them to vent. Anyone have a thought on preventing this, or is my thinking incorrect?
This happens because the state of charge or battery bar graph isnt figured solely from pack voltage. The car has a fancy way of trying to determine SOC. After a fuse reset the ECM has to try and figure out what the SOC of the battery is.

From my understanding the background charge starting is more an act of trying to figure out SOC than it is actually topping your battery.

I doubt Honda engineers figured on users grid charging their packs to the 100% full mark and then nonetheless resetting the IMA fuse thus this overcharging starts.

With all the scary overcharging talk now behind me, personally Im not worried when this behavior happens as I know grid charging is proven here time and time again to help with ailing packs.

Also the car does go to great lengths to prevent inflicting battery harm (ex. limiting assist and regen with voltage too high or low, limiting assist/regen with pack temp too high or low, limiting assist and regen when stick falls too far out of range with others, activating battery pack fan for hot pack or cold pack, thowing IMA light and disabling IMA use for certain conditions, etc, etc, etc.

If your pack is ailing/weak or possibly throwing IMA codes and not working at all, whats the big deal if it vents cells from grid charging?:dunno: Your pack was junk to start with. Do we need to go vent happy? NO!! not at all what I'm saying. Has this happened? Prolly somewhere. Does it happen everyday?:dunno:

Have any insight central members grid charged and had the same things happen and still have excellent results (including me multiple times)? HUNDREDS!

What would be my best course of action in this situation? Stop the final charge at 160-165v and then pull the fuse or battery cable to reset the car?

Finish the charge to 174v and then discharge to 160-165v before resetting?

Some other method?
Several methods available, every single one of them works.

Some people leave the ignition in the ON position while grid charging, as the car will see the voltage rise and adjust the SOC sometimes, and automatically turn the battery pack fan on if the pack becomes warm. If you plan on grid charging for an extended period, put a trickle 12v charger on the engine bay battery to keep it topped up while the key is in the on position.

Others pull the fuse as you did

The easiest way is buy Peters ODBIIC&C and use it to set your SOC to full after every grid charge, as a bonus you can clear check engine lighs, maybe even IMA light I cant remember for sure on that one though.
 
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