Nice summary of what people have done so far, kedge, thanks. My comments:
Futon mattresses are made from alternating layers of egg-crate shaped sheets of foam, cotton padding (I agree this is what it looks like Figgy used) and a polyester fiber such as Hollowfill from DuPont.
In mid-install of my ShoeBox subwoofer I drove the car across town to do some shopping, with all the rear carpet removed. The increase in noise was amazing, so I figured post-install it wouldn't hurt to add some sound insulation. I cut up old backpacking foam mattresses to fit under the rear carpet, in front and back of the cargo bin, and underneath the cargo bin atop the spare tire.
I also have wider (185/60R14) and quieter tires.
I suspect the cargo mat (shown here) would also help to damp sound from the rear of the car.
For those who have done door insulation, how much work is it? I am thinking of a dynamat-type solution on the inner surface of the exterior door panels, if possible. InsightCentral has excellent directions on removing the door panels but does not go beyond getting the interior panel removed. Judging from these pictures it looks like there is more work to get deeper into the doors (towards the exterior of the car from the inside). Also, that set of pictures shows that the moisture/water barrier on the door has been removed (a plastic sheet that is sealed along the still-visible white glue line in the top right picture). I have had problems with door modifications in the past (dealer repair to window regulator to fix auto-down issues on driver's side) that didn't reseal that barrier properly later leading to the infamous "wet seatbelt" issue, plus the eventual water damage of a speaker, and would rather not have it happen again.
Is there a way to do door sound insulation without removing that plastic? If so, how? What did you guys do? If not, what did you use to reseal it?
Futon mattresses are made from alternating layers of egg-crate shaped sheets of foam, cotton padding (I agree this is what it looks like Figgy used) and a polyester fiber such as Hollowfill from DuPont.
In mid-install of my ShoeBox subwoofer I drove the car across town to do some shopping, with all the rear carpet removed. The increase in noise was amazing, so I figured post-install it wouldn't hurt to add some sound insulation. I cut up old backpacking foam mattresses to fit under the rear carpet, in front and back of the cargo bin, and underneath the cargo bin atop the spare tire.
I also have wider (185/60R14) and quieter tires.
I suspect the cargo mat (shown here) would also help to damp sound from the rear of the car.
For those who have done door insulation, how much work is it? I am thinking of a dynamat-type solution on the inner surface of the exterior door panels, if possible. InsightCentral has excellent directions on removing the door panels but does not go beyond getting the interior panel removed. Judging from these pictures it looks like there is more work to get deeper into the doors (towards the exterior of the car from the inside). Also, that set of pictures shows that the moisture/water barrier on the door has been removed (a plastic sheet that is sealed along the still-visible white glue line in the top right picture). I have had problems with door modifications in the past (dealer repair to window regulator to fix auto-down issues on driver's side) that didn't reseal that barrier properly later leading to the infamous "wet seatbelt" issue, plus the eventual water damage of a speaker, and would rather not have it happen again.
Is there a way to do door sound insulation without removing that plastic? If so, how? What did you guys do? If not, what did you use to reseal it?
