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What do I need to know about the Sport mode?

When should I use it? What impact does it have on the battery? Is there a way that it can charge the battery to switch over to EV mode?
 

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Ignoring the condescending "Chuckles" and "Hypermiler" comments, Sport Mode is delivering the best driving experience for my likes in hilly and curvy terrain. I immediately notice the extra thrust and power, but I also feel the regenerative breaking on slowdowns around curves that put that energy right back into the battery. The maximum regenerative "breaking" setting does not reset in Sport Mode, and I wish the other modes would do the same, but they don't. I have found that if you anticipate the curves and slowdowns early enough, you may not even need to do any hard breaking, as the maximum regen resistance slows down the car enough to avoid wasting energy in the disk breaks. That will also save you from needing a break job that much sooner. So, where the roads are more demanding, Sport Mode does a good job of providing power when you need it, and putting power back into the battery when you don't need it. Plus it keeps the battery charged up better for when you want to cruise around in EV Mode. EV Mode is great for quiet flat terrain cruising. I wish I could drive in that mode full time.

The Normal Mode and Eco Mode make the engine work harder to get up to speed. I was very surprised at how Sport Mode delivered compared to the others, which didn't respond the same. Normal Mode and Eco Mode don't charge the battery to full, and that could be why the gas engine has to work harder by getting less from the electric motor. On flat terrain these other modes may be fine, although I still believe the battery reserve should be higher.

This is a bad time of the year to test MPG, but as soon as the weather gets warmer I will test all three modes on my test course to see which one works best for mileage. My early tests did not show Sport Mode to be bad on mileage. But if I'm not trying to squeeze every last drop out, and not losing much over other modes, I might stay in Sport Mode. Acceleration and deceleration are that much better.

Phil
 

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Cmon people, what is wrong with the good old fashioned "braking"?
Is "breaking" become the norm now or is it a millium thing.
 

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This is a bad time of the year to test MPG, but as soon as the weather gets warmer I will test all three modes on my test course to see which one works best for mileage. My early tests did not show Sport Mode to be bad on mileage. But if I'm not trying to squeeze every last drop out, and not losing much over other modes, I might stay in Sport Mode. Acceleration and deceleration are that much better.

Phil
It is an interesting post.

Re MPG testing, sports mode may not make a large difference IF the driving techniques are comparable to tests in the other modes. Testing is tough when you are trying to differentiate a couple of MPG. If you do tanks in the various modes, you will probably find it hard to maintain a "constant" driving style. I have had more success by doing relatively short test, say 10 miles, and using the car gauges to differentiate between the resultant MPG.

I guess tastes differ. The regen paddles come in for a fair amount of criticism, but I though it a good idea. The paddles allow the driver to make a judgement of how hard he wants to electrically retard his pace. It is a bit inconvenient that one cannot retain a level tailored to ones driving style.
 

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It is an interesting post.

Re MPG testing, sports mode may not make a large difference IF the driving techniques are comparable to tests in the other modes. Testing is tough when you are trying to differentiate a couple of MPG. If you do tanks in the various modes, you will probably find it hard to maintain a "constant" driving style. I have had more success by doing relatively short test, say 10 miles, and using the car gauges to differentiate between the resultant MPG.

I guess tastes differ. The regen paddles come in for a fair amount of criticism, but I though it a good idea. The paddles allow the driver to make a judgement of how hard he wants to electrically retard his pace. It is a bit inconvenient that one cannot retain a level tailored to ones driving style.
I think the Regen Paddles are great, and sometimes decrease regen on a coast to reduce using more energy to come back up to speed. The paddle setting does retain it's setting in Sport Mode. And I often use maximum regen instead of breaks. You have to anticipate what is coming ahead and react as soon as possible. So this way I recover the max energy and use very little disk breaks. That saves break wear. Unfortunately, this setting is cleared with ACC on, and does not retain in any other mode.

So I can eek out 50+ MPG if I keep switching modes. Sport with a full charge really helps on long hills to assist the gas engine, and I have ridden Econ EV mode for over five miles at highway speed on slight downhill slopes. But at some point you have to charge the battery for the next hill, and that is where it gets tricky planning which mode to choose. Depends on how well you know the road you're driving on.

For whatever reason, Honda did not allow the battery to fully charge in any mode other than Sport Mode (regen breaking aside). That is yet another issue I would like to see get fixed. Having the reserves available seems logical. But then Sport Mode doesn't like to go into EV Mode much either. Maybe it is trying to keep the battery charge for demand. Econ on long hills? Very hard on the gas engine due to the battery running out way too soon. No electric assist means it's all gas engine. That's a problem. I would stay in Sport Mode if the EV selection didn't kick out until I released it manually. That way I could decide when to use the reserves, and when not to...without going to Econ and EV all the time.

Some day soon I can see these modes changing themselves based on GPS navigation and topographical data. The computer would know what is ahead, and would prepare ahead if time. I'm kind of surprised that hasn't happened already.

PS - Sorry, I repeated what I said above. My Catskill Mountain drive yesterday reinforced this line of thinking. But it's late. Need sleep!

Phil
 

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Philbert, that makes me feel better about enjoying sport mode. I'll have to experiment with saving up the battery for hills. Have you tried different modes during the ascent itself? I wonder if that changes anything about the ratio of battery pull vs engine rpms or if the mode only matters earlier on to build up the charge?

Is there a danger in using sport more too long on flat stretches that it'll fill the battery all the way and just bleed off any extra energy into the void? Or is it smart enough to force EV when it gets too full?

Is there actually any difference between using the paddle shifters and lightly applying the brakes? The brake pedal shouldn't use the disc brakes as long as you don't hit it too suddenly right? I'm sure it makes it easier to not accidentally hit it too hard, but is there any other difference?

And I guess there's a balance in that regeneration must lose some energy in the process compared laying off the gas earlier and coasting.. But if you're on a straightaway with the engine geared to the wheels, letting the engine run longer and then using regeneration/brakes to stop would leave you with a higher battery to use for a hill right?

As an aside on modes, I think I read that eco mode affects the heating system, allowing it to have larger variations in temperature and put the engine on less.
 

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Is there actually any difference between using the paddle shifters and lightly applying the brakes? The brake pedal shouldn't use the disc brakes as long as you don't hit it too suddenly right? I'm sure it makes it easier to not accidentally hit it too hard, but is there any other difference?
^^ THIS!

I'm thinking/hoping easy braking is exactly the same thing.
 

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sport mode

if you drive slow enough with the ice off you should be able to hear when the pads meet rotors prior to full stop.
 
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