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2000 Honda insight rebuilt the motor drive a week. After a week the exhaust broke put a new exhaust on and now the signal wire for the starter isn't working. I can jump the starter and some times it starts some times it doesn't. After a short time with no noticeable reason the car shuts off. Relays all replaced fuses all replaced. Only check engine light is the Ima that's been bypassed. This is also one that's be modified to have a alternator instead of the Ima system
 

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I doubt you're gonna find much help with this. You'd need to explain how the IMA is bypassed and how the alternator is hooked up to even start to get anywhere with your immediate problem... The 12V starter is an auxiliary system in stock form, and it's dependent on portions of the IMA system. You're trying to use the 12V starter permanently, with two of the related systems gone. For anyone around here to sort through all that is a tough row to hoe...
 

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Joe;
Please include your Location in your Profile. Thank You.
Sounds to me like you have a partially connected wire somewhere.
Please explain "rebuilt the motor drive a week"?
 

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I doubt you're gonna find much help with this. You'd need to explain how the IMA is bypassed and how the alternator is hooked up to even start to get anywhere with your immediate problem... The 12V starter is an auxiliary system in stock form, and it's dependent on portions of the IMA system. You're trying to use the 12V starter permanently, with two of the related systems gone. For anyone around here to sort through all that is a tough row to hoe...
Battery and all is gone. Clutch sensor jumped . Alternator is mounted in place of the ac compressor.
 

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We rebuilt the motor and I only got a week out of it before this happened
What was included in the rebuild? What did it cost? I think this is the first rebuild I have seen here.

Sam
 

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Right, but what did you REBUILD? Pistons, rings, bearings, head work, turn crank, what? How many miles, and what were you trying to fix?

Sam
 
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Sounds to me like you have a partially connected wire somewhere.
I agree with Willie.

+ engine earth leads and 12V battery voltage etc etc are all candidates.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I agree with Willie.

+ engine earth leads and 12V battery voltage etc etc are all candidates.
All cables have been replaced. It
Right, but what did you REBUILD? Pistons, rings, bearings, head work, turn crank, what? How many miles, and what were you trying to fix?

Sam
I pulled it apart to reseal the engine because of leaks. Also the head blowing a spark plug and threads on cylinder 2. Furthermore when it has issues with staying running now it shuts off at just under 3k rpms
 

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I came across this thread again and I thought that it kinda a shame that no one posted the starting circuit schematic from the ETG online. The schematic is attached.

I also thought some about eq1's well placed comment that the circuit for the 12V starter is complicated by a set of logical tests of whether the car can start from the IMA. These tests may take place in various electronic modules, but from the schematic it can be seen that the 12V go-no go signal is received from the ECM, which must pull pin1 low, i.e. provide a ground.

The good news is that a functional test for the ECM signal and the relay is fairly easy. The relay is the blue relay in the small box just in front of the underhood fuse box. If one turns the IMA battery off, removes the cover of the small box, and places a finger tip on the blue relay, it can be felt to actuate when the ignition switch is turned to the run position. This connects pins 1&2 of the relay and makes it possible to energive the 12V starter. I think this is a kinda basic test of the starting circuit and ECM function. If the relay can't be felt to energize, then there are some strong pointers to a problem more complicated than a simple starter circuit. Probing the relay with a voltmeter would probably provide additional strong clues.
 

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If the IMA is gone, bypass the starter relay if that hasn't been done already.

You can determine if it's an electronics issue by running jumper cables directly from the battery to the starter. If it starts, then the issue is something electronically related. If not, then it's probably somewhere else.

Always load test your battery to make sure it's good. Bring your starter along to your local autozone and have them load test both.

Replacing the grounds doesn't guarantee that they function. Make sure they have a proper bare metal connection with no corrosion on the bolts or area on the car they are attached to.

Spin the engine by hand to make sure that nothing is seized. Then if its a manual, bump start the car to ensure that it isn't a fuel or engine issue.
 
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