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I'm attempting to install a new stereo in my insight and I cannot find a proper insight wiring diagram. The one I have lists the white/green wire as constant 12v but the volt meter shows nothing. Searched for another constant 12v but got nothing. Could a fuse be blown?
 

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You can look on 12volt.com to get wire locations for your car, but for a head unit I recommend you buy a wiring harness adapter for your car from Amazon or crutchfield and leave the stock plug intact.
 

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Thanks for the quick replies but neither site seems to have any info for an insight. I'm in the USA. So far the only wiring information I have is here:

Honda Insight Car Audio Install Instructions
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Green
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Red
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Red
Car Stereo Power Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Turn-On Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Depth: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
Car Audio Front Speakers Depth: 3″
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Black
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Yellow
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
Car Audio Rear Speakers Depth: 3 1/2″
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Car Subwoofer Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Subwoofer Rear Speakers Depth: N/A
Car Subwoofer Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Yellow
The 2003 Honda Insight radio wire color information above is updated as it is submitted by the Modified Life community.
 

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I used an adapter, Metra, I think. It plugs into the car harness and the wires are labeled. The wires from the radio are labeled. The wire colors are mostly the same. Just splice a few wires and install the radio. Done. I've done this on two Insights with different brand radios, and both worked fine. It took longer to get the dash apart that it did to do the wires. $12 well spent. No need to make this so hard.

Sam
 

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Splice them back the way they were?

Sam
 

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I took a picture from the Honda electrical troubleshooting guide but now I can't get the photo to photobucket......


Yellow red is hot in key on
Wht is hot at all times
Red is illumination dim control -
Red/blk is illumination dim control +

Wht/grn is antenna preamp power (the antenna has a built in preamp you will need to keep powered) probably should connect to a switched radio output or key on power or radio out to power antenna

Blue Wht is lr speaker +
Blue blk is lr speaker -

Pink is rr speak +
Blue/yel is rr spk -

Grn/blk is drivers +
Light green is drivers -

Grn yel is pass +
Gray red is pas -

Black is ground

Note that what you listed as always on power does not match what I listed, and some of your speakers and speaker polarity don't match either.

Now, does anyone have additional info on the two dimming wires? I did not hook them up when I installed my kenwood dnx9980 because I could not find out how to connect them......





 

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Interesting.... The gen 2 uses blue for the antenna amp, which is the same color thats used for a remote turn on wire.

We use orange for illumination control. Wow, thought these were universal?
 

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The service manuals are online:
http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/honda-insight-forum-1st-gen-discussion/16983-download-2000-2006-insight-service-manual-pdf-others.html

Wiring diagrams are both in the electrical manuals, and the "wiring.pdf" from the repair manuals collection

Here (http://i.imgur.com/316wdAc.png) is the page you're looking for from he Electrical Manual, and here (http://i.imgur.com/n2tzc5q.png) is the color version from the "wiring.pdf" if it makes it easier to read


Now, does anyone have additional info on the two dimming wires? I did not hook them up when I installed my kenwood dnx9980 because I could not find out how to connect them......
The Red/Blk (Illumination +) is basically 12v supplied when the headlights turn on. So that is the illumination wire some aftermarket radios will use to dim the display or turn on their lights.

Leave the Red (Illumi - ) disconnected, since aftermarkets radios cant use the dimmer function of the stock car
 

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I am wiring an amp, 15 amps, and a dc to ac inverter 30 amp . I would like to keep the install clean and not connect straight to the battery.

There are two screws on the under hood fuse panel that look like they connect to the bus. Can anyone confirm and let me know what they are rated for?
 

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WELL the DC/AC inverter is overkill it is a Cobra CPI1575. It says that it is rated at 30 Amps. The Amplifier is a bit smaller, it is actually a micro amp that will fit nicely under the dash. It is a KAC m3004 by Kenwood. I am just hoping to get a little more sound from the speakers and to match the underseat sub that I got.

If anyone can tell me what the screws on the fuse panel are rated for, i'd really apprecaite it.


Thanks!
 

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Take a look at the service manual (which is stickied on ic.net). Specifically:
-Look at the connector physical document
-Turn to page 174 "Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box"
-Find "Connector C", which is "Option Connector D, Hot in ACC & ON"
-Note "Connector C" isn't fused on the underdash fusebox, but is fused in the engine fusebox.
-Open insight schematic.
-Turn to page 10-1 "Power Distribution - Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box"
-Note "Option Connector D" is connected to a 30 A fuse (#16) in the Underhood fusebox.
-Note fuse #16 is also used by 8 other subsystems, so there's zero chance you'll be able to pull 30 A through it.
-Note also that running a fuse at more than half its rated limit will cause it to fail much faster than you'd expect. Most manufacturers rate fuse current as "time to fail after four hours at continuous load." However, cutting the time-to-fail exponentially decays with decreasing current; below 50% rated current, the lifetime is in the "thousands-of-hours-to-failure" range.

...Back to the drawing board:

-Look at underhood fuse #17 (40 A), whose only load is the power windows.
-Find a creative way to tap into the lead from from engine Fuse #17 (WHT/BLK) to underdash fusebox.
-At 75% continuous load, a typical fuse is going to last a few thousand hours. You almost certainly won't place a constant 30 A on the fuse, so you're good to go.
-Make sure you lower inverter demand before operating the windows, or risk blowing the fuse.

...Another option:

Tap directly into the DCDC inverter, which connects to the 12 volt battery via fuse #2 (80A). As an added perk, power sourced while driving will come directly from the DCDC converter without first passing through the battery lead. Note the car won't be able to measure the load sourced in this way.
 
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