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Hey guys, about to do an oil change and I have a few questions.

First off Honda used 15400-PLM-A01 when they did their famous "4 quart change" shortly after I purchased the car. That part number has been replaced recently with A02. Are you guys using this or just whatever the local auto parts store has on hand? I like the fact that I can buy 6 of these for $35 on Amazon or Ebay.

Secondly what is your average interval for changing the oil? The manual says 7500 miles under normal conditions. I would say that is the case with my vehicle as I drive it with a feather foot and never push it hard. That said she's just about 175k miles so I'm entering the high mileage category though I know they are out there with twice that. At 2.5 quarts frequent oil changes aren't exactly expensive but my Toyota on synthetic recommends 10k intervals. I don't want to start an oil debate etc etc. Just curious. I know "cheap insurance" blah blah. Just looking for some Insight. :)
 

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The general opinion IIRR, is use Mobil. 1 Synt. 0-20. Change around 7.4 K miles.
 

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I change it once a year or 10k miles, whichever comes first.
 

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Yes, Mobile 1 0w-20 full synthetic. I replace every 5000 miles, and the oil is about toast then, but I drive hard. I've recently switched to "high mileage" oil (still mobile 1).
 

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Another vote for Mobil 1 0W-20 full synthetic. I drive like a moron and replace my oil when I get a round tuit - generally at much less frequent intervals than the manufacturer recommendation.
 

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Yes, Mobile 1 0w-20 full synthetic. I replace every 5000 miles, and the oil is about toast then, but I drive hard. I've recently switched to "high mileage" oil (still mobile 1).
Synthetic oil should not be 'toast' after only 5k miles. Regular oil lasts 3500-7500 miles. Synthetics last 10-15k miles. The only reason to change it is contamination.
 

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Synthetic oil should not be 'toast' after only 5k miles. Regular oil lasts 3500-7500 miles. Synthetics last 10-15k miles. The only reason to change it is contamination.
Interesting... maybe I used the wrong vocab word, then. Even at 'only' 5000 miles, my waste oil is always really dark and thick, so I've always assumed that means it's used up. Looks like I need to do more research on that. I guess I'm getting lots of 'contaminates' at the monster truck rallies.
 

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Interesting... maybe I used the wrong vocab word, then. Even at 'only' 5000 miles, my waste oil is always really dark and thick, so I've always assumed that means it's used up. Looks like I need to do more research on that. I guess I'm getting lots of 'contaminates' at the monster truck rallies.
What oil are you actually using? A real synthetic or a blend?
 

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I'm not a scientist or good looking so most people pay no attention to me. But I think -mostly to myself -A car with the tires aired up over 100 psi can go longer on a oil change than one on 35 pounds of pressure. No way the car motor works as hard with so little resistance from wheels. And you could say the same about the under tray And taking over 100 pounds out of the car. I would gladly change my oil more often if I had a 130 pound good Lookin girlfriend to ride with me. Like I said I'm not very smart.I am looking for 0/16 weight oil for my next change. 2% increase sounds good to me.
 

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As far as "normal" 0w20 synthetic oil goes, the winner by far according to:
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Coming in at number 8 0W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, synthetic (originally gold, now green bottle) = 124,393 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil was tested in Spring 2016. The psi value of this oil, which came from testing it at the normal operating test temperature of 230*F, which put it in the FANTASTIC Wear Protection Category.

However, I went on to also test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. This oil did have a 14.7% drop in capability. But, even at that elevated temperature, it produced an impressive 106,163 psi, put this much hotter and thinner oil in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category.

(54) 0W20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic = 100,229 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil was tested in Spring 2016.

(142) 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic = 79,612
psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil was tested in Spring 2016. At that time, this was the latest current version of this oil.
 

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I have a hard time believing anything made by a tiny company like quaker state would out perform Mobil 1.

Also, this is a neat test, but I'm wondering how that test would hold up if it was done with 5-10k miles on it. There's more to oil than just pressure tests.
 

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If you read that blog, and you buy the B.S., you are gullible. There is as much bragging, d!ck waving and self-aggrandizing as there is actual meaningful content.

I question if he's actually an engineer. Any engineer worth his salt would publish his exact method and equipment with pictures and raw data results. He puts way more effort into describing how he and his testing are the best and all the critics are wrong, blah blah blah.

If he's truly unbiased and has no financial interest in any of it, why not more transparency?

He may be wholly competent, but the endless stream of irrelevant B.S. brings that into question.

It's just a wall-of-text "blog" on Wordpress.
 

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I have a hard time believing anything made by a tiny company like quaker state would out perform Mobil 1.

Also, this is a neat test, but I'm wondering how that test would hold up if it was done with 5-10k miles on it. There's more to oil than just pressure tests.
A small company could. Polaroid was pretty much R&D and marketing. IIRC, Timex made the cameras. Quaker State could be R&D and marketing. On the basis of their research they could have a refiner build oil mixes any way they want. They do not need a refinery to do it. Now I am not saying that this is the actual case. What I am doing is laying out a scenario of how it could be.
 

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https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4339959/Re:_540__Rat_Blog_-_QSUD_bette

If you read that blog, and you buy the B.S., you are gullible. There is as much bragging, d!ck waving and self-aggrandizing as there is actual meaningful content.

I question if he's actually an engineer. Any engineer worth his salt would publish his exact method and equipment with pictures and raw data results. He puts way more effort into describing how he and his testing are the best and all the critics are wrong, blah blah blah.

If he's truly unbiased and has no financial interest in any of it, why not more transparency?

He may be wholly competent, but the endless stream of irrelevant B.S. brings that into question.

It's just a wall-of-text "blog" on Wordpress.
Agreed

Misuse of the wrong test
http://direct.dksh.com.au/Product/Air-Technologies/coupling-adaptors/Falex-Timken-Test-Machine
 
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