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Hi.

I'm new to this forum. I just purchased a 2010 Insight EX NAV Black- so far I'm loving it. I added the factory fog light, body side molding, All Season Package, Rear Bumper Applique, Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel and cargo trey cover. I also just did tint on the car so I think I have it to where I want it- except for the sound: I found the speaker really poor. I think I can live with it if I could just add a sub-woofer (powered). Has anyone added a powered sub-woofer that integrates seamlessly with the factory head unit?

I was looking at the sub-woofer like what my wife's 2007 Honda Odyssey EX-L has. Any after-market recommendation would be much appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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Hi.

I'm new to this forum. I just purchased a 2010 Insight EX NAV Black- so far I'm loving it. I added the factory fog light, body side molding, All Season Package, Rear Bumper Applique, Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel and cargo trey cover. I also just did tint on the car so I think I have it to where I want it- except for the sound: I found the speaker really poor. I think I can live with it if I could just add a sub-woofer (powered). Has anyone added a powered sub-woofer that integrates seamlessly with the factory head unit?

I was looking at the sub-woofer like what my wife's 2007 Honda Odyssey EX-L has. Any after-market recommendation would be much appreciated.

Thanks.
Ditto for me...just bought my Insight Monday...and the sound is really very poor. A powered subwoofer would do it for me!

In searching subs for the Prius, there are several possibilities...one brand that came up is Bazooka. But I'd like to find someone who has actually installed a sub in a 2010 Insight.
 

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Well it is not like having a sub, but it does help to turn the bass response up in the Insight. If you haven't done so already. It helps!
 

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I also increase the base to +3 and it really helps. I also avoid listening to reg. fm radio as it sounds ultra tinny. The sound straight from cd or ipod is much better. It is the a shame that the Fit I came from had 200Watts of power. The civic (sans SI), insight, accord (base) all have only 160Watts and are all pricier than the Fit.
 

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I also increase the base to +3 and it really helps. I also avoid listening to reg. fm radio as it sounds ultra tinny. The sound straight from cd or ipod is much better. It is the a shame that the Fit I came from had 200Watts of power. The civic (sans SI), insight, accord (base) all have only 160Watts and are all pricier than the Fit.
That helps explain the difference I heard between the Fit I traded in and the 2010 Insight. Seems like even having better speakers would help though.
 

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One other thing that is "missing" on the Insight, from the Fit - preset EQ settings!! I kept hitting the Sound button looking for the EQ settings - none to be found....
 

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I am considering the same thing.

The radio sounds pretty good, much better when listening to Ipod, right around 23-30 volume and it is pretty loud, but not that much bass.

You can hook into the factor unit if it has pre-outs, otherwise you have to use the existing wiring which is also possible although you need an extra kit to do that. You also lose so sound quality if no pre-outs are present.

The best place I can think for it is under the carpet in the rear where the space tire sits.

There is a peice of styrofoam back there which if measured, you could probably build a sub box to take up some or all of the space by taking the measurement of the insert and duplicating that with MDF baord. This would make a nice stealth install. I've also thought about cutting the cover itslef but it has "folds" and look to be too flimsy, so that doesn't seem to be an option.

I bet you could get an 6- 8" incher to fit back under the floor around the space tire.

I'm investigating JL Audio subs now and seeing if I can get a small box under the floor with the available space. It might have "wierd: dimensions to fit around the space tire.

Of course, if you don't mind losing cargo space, you could easier fit a pair of 10" or better ones back there.
 

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I had a 2008 civic that i traded for my insight. The civics system was so cruddy sounding, it should be banned in USA! I spent about 2500.oo on a new system with a sub, sounded great, but did not make my like the civic any more... the more i drove that car... the more i hated it.

Fast Forward, i traded my Civic with all my upgrades. At one point i took it to my Car Stereo Guru asking him about Hybrid upgrades. He said be VERY careful on what you upgrade. He claimed that putting too much stuff on there can mess up the electrical system. Now, with that said. I plan on gutting the stock speakers and getting some real speakers. If anyone has seen what honda puts in all these cars, you'd be amazed. Its basically paper speakers. Cruddy notebook paper type cones. Frakking sinful! I was entertaining the idea of adding a smaller amp to those speakers too, as the Navi Head unit is barely powerful enough. I'd think long and hard about adding a powerful sub, and ask MANY installers if they've had any issues with it.
These cars are quite complicated, and i hate to start electrical problems in this car. Oh the horror!

SO, be careful and ask many installers for their input.

Good Luck!
Dennis
 

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My Fit's speakers were all plastic , from cone to frame and very small drivers / magnets.
Odd how a car cheaper than the civic comes with better soounding stereo equipment, and obviously better quality componets.

When my installer handed me the speakers from my civic, i could not believe it. The GOOD news for us Insight owners is that the speaker well, kinda pokes out like a Preggo Chick...so we can put a more substantial speaker in there.

My civic's doors are so narrow, i had to make my purchasing decision based on THAT ONE fact alone.
 

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I'd think long and hard about adding a powerful sub, and ask MANY installers if they've had any issues with it.
These cars are quite complicated, and i hate to start electrical problems in this car. Oh the horror!

SO, be careful and ask many installers for their input.

Good Luck!
Dennis
You should be OK provided the amplifier is not a monster.

The basic equation is:

P = IV

A 300W amp will draw around 25 AMPs from a 12 Volt Car Battery at full load (stereo cranked to 11). Most stock batteries are around 40 AMPs and the alternators around are 60 AMPs. So that leaves amps for the remaining items to run on the car when the bass is rattling the windows. I don't know the draw specifically of all the items in the car. Obviously with AC running, lights on, etc. there will be less power to go around, but if you listen at normal levels, the draw of the amp will be less as well.

Any Amp 500W or greater would probably require a heavy duty (SLI) battery and alternator to run it properly without the lights dimming etc, so I wouldn't recommend anything in that power band for "normal" type of stereo upgrades. Note the SLI battery is the lead acid one that sits with the engine.

You will not need that kind of power (500W) anyway with a single 8 or 10 inch Sub.

Additionally, most AMP that say 500 Watts of power are misleading. The power comes from a 14.4 volt rating, a typical battery puts out closer to 12 volts, so already you are at ~420 watts of power instead of 500. They are not 100% efficient either.

Even a 4 channel 100W amp (25W per channel) will run the stock speakers with greater volume and clarity than the head unit because the power will be cleaner. So you don't need a ton or power to achieve decent sound especially with a speaker upgrade as well. :)

My Recommendations

2 AMP Setup

4 Channel Amp running 100W - 200W (25 to 50 watt per channel) to run the speakers in the doors and tweeters in the dash
Sub Mono Amp running 100W - 250W


1 AMP Setup

6 Channel Amp with 2 channels bridged to run the Sub (4 + 1)
Power Rating 300 - 400 W Total
 

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You should be OK provided the amplifier is not a monster.

The basic equation is:

P = IV

A 300W amp will draw around 25 AMPs from a 12 Volt Car Battery at full load (stereo cranked to 11). Most stock batteries are around 40 AMPs and the alternators around are 60 AMPs. So that leaves amps for the remaining items to run on the car when the bass is rattling the windows. I don't know the draw specifically of all the items in the car. Obviously with AC running, lights on, etc. there will be less power to go around, but if you listen at normal levels, the draw of the amp will be less as well.

Any Amp 500W or greater would probably require a heavy duty (SLI) battery and alternator to run it properly without the lights dimming etc, so I wouldn't recommend anything in that power band for "normal" type of stereo upgrades. Note the SLI battery is the lead acid one that sits with the engine.

You will not need that kind of power (500W) anyway with a single 8 or 10 inch Sub.

Additionally, most AMP that say 500 Watts of power are misleading. The power comes from a 14.4 volt rating, a typical battery puts out closer to 12 volts, so already you are at ~420 watts of power instead of 500. They are not 100% efficient either.

Even a 4 channel 100W amp (25W per channel) will run the stock speakers with greater volume and clarity than the head unit because the power will be cleaner. So you don't need a ton or power to achieve decent sound especially with a speaker upgrade as well. :)

My Recommendations

2 AMP Setup

4 Channel Amp running 100W - 200W (25 to 50 watt per channel) to run the speakers in the doors and tweeters in the dash
Sub Mono Amp running 100W - 250W


1 AMP Setup

6 Channel Amp with 2 channels bridged to run the Sub (4 + 1)
Power Rating 300 - 400 W Total

Wow! Thanks for geeking out and providing all this info. I'll be sure to pass this info along to my Sales Mook when i am picking out new speakers, and if we can find a hiding place for an amp in this car!

I had a sub in my civic, it was nice, but i dont do rap and hip hop..so even on some of my rockin' stuff, i found the bass to be too much (and i happen to be a bass player). I found a nice balance, but there were times it would overwhelm. So i am just gonna do a nice speaker upgrade, and may even take your advise on the amp. Dont need a zillion watts, but like you said just a bit more umph will give a cleaner signal.

Any suggestions on hiding an amp in this car?
 

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Any suggestions on hiding an amp in this car?
Under the passenger or driver seat is a good spot. If it will fit behind the dash somewhere, that a good spot too, but mostly it's cluttered there.

The basic needs are some airflow, the ability to ground it to metal, and ability to feed wires in from the head and power as well as to the speakers it is powering.

There are probably mounting plates that can be used under the seat which have pre-drilled holes for mounting the amp.

For under the seat, if there was some sort of plate that would use the same bolt holes as for securing the seat to the floor, that would be optimal.
 

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Under the passenger or driver seat is a good spot. If it will fit behind the dash somewhere, that a good spot too, but mostly it's cluttered there.

The basic needs are some airflow, the ability to ground it to metal, and ability to feed wires in from the head and power as well as to the speakers it is powering.

There are probably mounting plates that can be used under the seat which have pre-drilled holes for mounting the amp.

For under the seat, if there was some sort of plate that would use the same bolt holes as for securing the seat to the floor, that would be optimal.
Heck man, you have it all figured out! Tell you what, i am just gonna come by your place and have you do it :)

Thanks again for the input on this.

D
 

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Heck man, you have it all figured out! Tell you what, i am just gonna come by your place and have you do it :)

Thanks again for the input on this.

D
This discussion was great. I am now thinking of replacing the speakers on the front/back doors first (the tweeters sound fine). I will try to do this myself but if I find that I need to add an amp later I'll get the store to do the install. I'll let you know what I end up with next week.
 

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Just know that if the speakers are anything like the Civic speakers. You wont be UNSCREWING anything, but actually tearing and ripping out a paper cone, and you'll have to do your own mounting.

When they handed me my civics speakers... it honestly look like the old "Homework was eaten by my dog" statement.

Good luck. Heck, if these speakers are WAY differnt than i am describing... report back to us ASAP! It will save me 100.00 in labor!
I dont mind spending the money, if they gotta rip out paper cones and drill new holes. But if its a simple replacement... you bet i'll give it an old college try!

Dennis
 

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I used an SAS Bazooka powered tube along with the following connectors and wiring harness.

Those two accessories and the powered tube allowed me to have the added bass with out cutting into the factory wiring. All the power for the Bazooka tube is feed through the harness. It works really well.

Here is a list of Bazooka tubes, for less than $250.00 and some time you can add some really decent bass to the car.

For those that would like the same set up for less than $200.00, here is another sub for $150.00.
 

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I used an SAS Bazooka powered tube along with the following connectors and wiring harness[/URL].

Those two accessories and the powered tube allowed me to have the added bass with out cutting into the factory wiring. All the power for the Bazooka tube is feed through the harness. It works really well.
[/I]

All right--thanks for your post! A question: I have the Honda Navi upgrade in my EX...do you know if your set up works with a Navi?
~Steve
 

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I used an SAS Bazooka powered tube along with the following connectors and wiring harness[/URL].

Those two accessories and the powered tube allowed me to have the added bass with out cutting into the factory wiring. All the power for the Bazooka tube is feed through the harness. It works really well.
[/I]

All right--thanks for your post! A question: I have the Honda Navi upgrade in my EX...do you know if your set up works with a Navi?
~Steve
As long as it uses the same plugs/connections I don't see a problem. I would think Honda would use the same connectors to simplify the manufacturing process. If you happen to go this route, please post pics of the navi back panel and the navi connections.
 
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