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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
14mm shallow socket with 1/2" fitting
1 foot 1/2" extension for socket
1/2" universal joint for socket
long 2' breaker bar with 1/2" fitting
1/2" ratchet with a pipe
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
2 floor jacks
2 jack stands


Shock Removal:

0. Loosen lug nuts on rear wheels.
1. Jack one side of car at center jack point.
2. Place jack stand on pinch weld lift point in front of the rear wheel on the same side then lower jack.
3. Repeat for other side. (car should now have rear wheels off the ground)
4. Remove rear wheels.
5. Place floor jacks under rear trailing arms on each side near brake at lowest point
6. Use floor jacks to slightly raise the trailing arm about 1" on each side to load the spring and to unload the shock.
7. Remove shock's lower bolt (break with breaker bar and 14mm socket)
8. Remove shock's upper bolts (14mm socket on ~ 1' extension for the rear bolt..... use a 1/2" Universal on the socket for getting the front bolt as the trailing arm is in the way).
9. The shock can now be removed.

Spring removal

(no need to disconnect brake or electrical fasteners as per the fsm.

1. Let floor jacks down so that the trailing arm is in full droop.
2. Remove the bump stops with 14mm socket.
3. Remove the spring from the bottom.


1. The springs have a slip-on rubber top seat
2. When installing springs, place the bump stop in the spring before putting the spring in place. (otherwise it gets locked out of its cage.)
3. The springs have a damping plastic wrap around the bottom.
4. The springs are wider at the bottom.
5. There is a notch/dead-end formed in in the trailing arm seat that aligns with the end of the spring at the bottom. This is the rotational alignment cue.
6. Stock shocks have additional rubber patch on the bottom. This should face forward to prevent road debris/rocks from damaging finish.
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