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Anyone know if its possible to tap into the hybrid battery? i want to run my 2 dashcams off it rather than the car's small starter 12v battery.
 

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Anyone know if its possible to tap into the hybrid battery? i want to run my 2 dashcams off it rather than the car's small starter 12v battery.
Almost anything is possible; however, there's no good reason to do so. Besides, when you're running them off 12V, and the engine is running, you're effectively running them via the HV system.
 

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I support the previous statement.
It is better not to get involved without the urgent need in a hybrid system.
With the car turned on, you already get 12V from the hybrid battery through a DC-DC converter.
If you need 12V with the car turned off, it is better to use a powerbank or another power source that gets a charge when you turn on the engine.
 

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If you draw or add current when you key on it senses a false current and trips the IMA code, disabling its use until you reset it again (for which you need an OBDII device that can). So will any connection between the system and mass or the 12V system, even if there does not run a current as such. Don't ask me how I know. Also, 100 Volt of DC can be lethal, more so than a much higher AC voltage.

Even if you get around that, the hybrid battery uses 84 NiMH cells of 5.5 Ah capacity. But you can only practically use a part of this. It tries really hard to stay around 70-80% charged (or so it seems).

Whereas the 12V battery has 35 Ah capacity. Its voltage may be lower, but the total capacity (0.42 kWh) is almost as large as the hybrid batteries 0.6 kWh, and it will usually be fully charged after a drive. If it is any good, which often isn't the case. I have a solar battery tender for good reason.

Put short: Stay away from the hybrid battery if you 'just want to tap into it'. It doesn't work like that.

During AutoStop, the engine is not running. The hybrid battery then provides power to the DC-DC converter, which feeds the 12V system. So the voltage on that system during AutoStop is typically something like 13.84 Volt.
You are then effectively running off the hybrid battery even with the engine stalled.
(when you key on but do not actually start the car, the DC-DC converter is not activated and the 12V system voltage will slowly drop as its battery depletes)
 

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If you draw or add current when you key on it senses a false current and trips the IMA code, disabling its use until you reset it again (for which you need an OBDII device that can). So will any connection between the system and mass or the 12V system, even if there does not run a current as such. Don't ask me how I know. Also, 100 Volt of DC can be lethal, more so than a much higher AC voltage.
So, how do you know? ;-)

also want to add that high voltage DC is not compatible with switches, relays, fuses, circuit breakers, and the protective gaps between the high and low voltage sides of circuit boards, specified for 110/220VAC use, because of their dependence on the voltage going to zero every few tens of milliseconds to quench the arc that occurs when enough current is flowing when the circuit opens. Read: all the protective circuitry that's been designed over the years as a result of lessons written in blood, is rendered ineffective: circuit remains powered, shock, heat, fire, badness.
 

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So, how do you know? ;-)
Alright, because of this.
https://www.insightcentral.net/forums/modifications-technical-discussions/73874-portable-parallel-phev-booster-pack-ze2.html
I'm gearing up for a volt- and ammeter setup so I can actually see the voltage and current draw while driving. And a safe and sturdy structure to mount and connect the case that carries the batteries in the back to the harness and stuff. But times were tough and I'm only gradually getting in the flow again; I want no more broken promises, so I won't promise anything right now.
 

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Even if you get around that, the hybrid battery uses 84 NiMH cells of 5.5 Ah capacity.
The IMA battery consists of NiMh D cells in "sticks". There are six cells to a stick. There are 20 sticks. That's 120 cells at 1.2V each for a total of 144 Volts DC. The capacity of the pack is 6.5 Ah. Here is the InsightCentral.net page that gives you all the info on the pack.
https://www.insightcentral.net/encyclopedia/enbattery.html

My second Insight developed battery problems and I didn't like the idea of paying a couple grand for a replacement. So I took the battery out, charged and discharged the sticks several times. In my RC hobby batteries, I had already learned about this. It's called cycling the batteries and they came back to almost full capacity. You can also find pages from InsightCentral covering all sorts of ways to cycle and extend the life of your battery. Look around here, there's a wealth of information.

As for the original question about tapping the IMA battery... Not recommended. No benefit. Big danger. And by the way, the small 12V battery is the starter battery only when the IMA system fails. Primarily it runs the electronics of the car. I found this out when it went dead and the car would barely move. And the first time you hear the actual starter (there is one) it will grab your attention. You know something is wrong 'cause it sounds like .... a starter!
 

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Hmm. You are talking about a Gen 1 right? Because the batteries are different for a Gen 2. I got this quote from another thread.

Gen-1
144v @ 6.5Ah = 936wh

Gen-2
100.8v @ 5.75Ah = 579.6 wh

So I guess Red Devil's 84 cells would be right for a Gen 2.
 

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Hmm. You are talking about a Gen 1 right? Because the batteries are different for a Gen 2. I got this quote from another thread.

Gen-1
144v @ 6.5Ah = 936wh

Gen-2
100.8v @ 5.75Ah = 579.6 wh

So I guess Red Devil's 84 cells would be right for a Gen 2.
Hey now, those first gen guys know everything! (except what forum section they are in)
 

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Hey now, those first gen guys know everything! (except what forum section they are in)
No I certainly don't know everything. And you are right, I had no idea I was on a Gen 2 forum. I didn't even know there WAS a Gen2 forum and now I see there is a Gen 3 forum as well.

I only read the weekly Insight Central email and sometimes think my experience will help someone, so I pop in and try my best.

But now that I have been so politely informed, you can bet I'll pay more attention in the future.
 

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But the advice is still the same: don't tap into the hybrid battery.
The first gen battery may be more powerful, it also deteriorates and you do not want anything messing with its management. If it has a bad cell and you pull it down regardless that cell will fail and pretty soon the whole pack will.
 
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