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Sounds like a great tour. The castles of the Loire are particularly interesting.

Good progress on the replacer.

Is the needed A/C part something you could carry home in your check baggage? I have all the parts from my donar car.
 

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Discussion Starter #462
Back now. No other issues to report apart from a bad EGR valve :rolleyes:
BCM Replacer worked well.. :)
 

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Part way into installing and checking out my BCM Replacer. I picked mine up from BullDog last weekend as he was at KLR3CYL's shop this weekend. Used the 7" display on my head unit and was able to go though the screens. No IMA lights.

Tap monitoring seems to be working and I'd like to use it to troubleshoot my NiHI pack which I believe has a weak stick.

Is there a master reset to bring things back to the factory default? Or do I need to do this by reloading the software with the PIC programmer.. Is the software for this posted for the main processor board?

Did have some fan issues that I'd like to troubleshoot. Unfortunately the only schematic that I could find on this thread was the V1.09 which appears to be dated as the pin outs on BCM connector "B" don't agree with the attached PDF that I used as a guide to put the harness pins into the BCM harness connector. Is there a later version of the Schematic? If not is the Fan control section correct on 1.09?

My ODBIIC&C also behaves funny with the BCM replacer. Can you use both together? My version is dated is there a recommended version.
 

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Discussion Starter #464 (Edited)
44Now well done on being the first!! Thanks for the support.

There is no reset to defaults, all the configuration options can be individually changed in the menus.

I assume you have read (and digested) the draft operating manual on google docs.
It's a hotch potch at the moment but does contain the basics and quite a lot more.

It does explain about reloading the firmware..

1) If you are talking about the IMA battery fan that does not need any additional wires/pins...
The latest BCM Replacer code (Fresh back from 2000km in France) is attached.. Try that..

2) OBDIIC&C funny? need more details/video?
Mine works fine with the BCM Replacer.
I suggest you update to the latest OBDIIC&C firmware in that thread and report back..


Note the attached file is a zip file so rename it from pdf.
This site does not allow zip attachments yet.


The firmware also requires the updated fontbank (for graphs) so load and run that first if you haven't already done so.

Please post pics and details of your setup. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #465
Is the needed A/C part something you could carry home in your check baggage? I have all the parts from my donar car.
Sadly probably the condenser.. I'm only bringing hand luggage..
 

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Thanks for the prompt response Peter.

I'll try the updated Firmware.

The reset to factory defaults may be a feature to consider. Especially for first time users who may have inadvertently set an incorrect parameter and want to go back to ground zero. I find the current OBDIIC&C set parameters to US Defaults very handy and use it often.

Is there a later schematic? BullDog metioned there was a 1.1 version. The latest I could find was the 1.09 which is not up to date as mentioned.

I only found the 1.09 version by going through several hundred posts. The old IC Site had a feature where you could look at all of the attachments of a particular thread which would make this much easier - does anybody know if this feature is available on this new site?

My ODBIIC&C firmware is from 2016. I'm still using the 18F620 PIC. Can you provide a recommended version and possibly the post number for the version you would recommend.

Looking forward to spending more time this weekend with this new toy.
 

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Discussion Starter #467
Attached current BCM Replacer schematics.. (zip file containing pdfs)

Attached OBDIIC&C code.. (zip file containing hex)
 

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Discussion Starter #468 (Edited)
'BCM Replacer' pricing update 04/08/2019.

As we all know early adopters do pay a premium for a new product :(
Currently each board is hand assembled and we are barely making minimum wage.

So the price of the complicated 'A' board has been revised upwards +$50
This price change is only applicable to new orders, and does not affect those who have already ordered/paid.

The BCM Replacer Boards

The BCM replacer is currently divided up into 6 pcb's.
Not all of which are required depending on your chosen setup.

A Board. (Price $300 each) Required in all options. Includes 'E' breakout board.
(The main video, comms, CAN and processing board, with the two low voltage side OEM BCM harness connectors)

B-10 Board. (Price $100 each) (5 module) 10 Voltage Tap Variant
The voltage tap receptacle board with the OEM wiring high voltage BCM harness connector)
Required for those wanting OEM voltage tap modules and pack voltage tap sensing.

B-16 Board. (Price $115 each) (8 module) 16 Voltage Tap Variant
The voltage tap receptacle board with the non standard wiring high voltage BCM harness connector)
Required for those wanting extra voltage tap modules and pack voltage tap sensing.

C Board. (Price $50 each)
The voltage tap boards. Each board measures two 0-22V taps.
5 boards are required for an OEM 10 tap voltage sensing setup.
8 boards are required for the non standard 16 tap voltage sensing setup.

D Board. (Price $30 each or $50 with 3d printed case) Required in all options.
The keypad board.

E Board. (Price $30 each if ordered separately from an 'A' board) Required in all options.
The connector and auxiliary audible alarm breakout board.

All boards will be supplied built & programmed with the latest firmware.
You will need a pic programmer to flash the firmware as features are added and bugs squashed.
They cost about $25 each and can be supplied from stock.

Postage and packing is $25 on top and if paying by paypal you have to pay the fees.

The supplied A-C boards will need to be installed by the user into their old BCM case.
Several pre-wired /crimped pins may need to be added by the user to the OEM connector harness plugs
for the video output, keypad inputs and Orion2 CAN comms if reqd.
You will also need the recommended video screen or rca video compatible equivalent.
You need to be fully capable of soldering, wiring and working with high voltages.

A word about warranties.

There isn't any!! (if you blow a board or your battery you have to buy a new one.)

Purchasers will have to sign a disclaimer indemnifying myself and Bulldog against any possible claims.
This is an extensive technical modification undertaken completely at your own risk.
We have worked hard to minimise potential issues but are not experts,
and do not have thousands of testers working 24/7 on the project.

Software and hardware development will likely continue for many months/years to come.
Remember we are doing it for the love of these cars,
and will unlikely be suning ourselves in Hawaii on the limited proceeds. :)

Thanks for your interest and time..

RetepSnikrep & Bulldog.
 

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Good info. I’ve got a couple of questions though. At this time it seems more people are using the Honda Fit LTO batteries utilizing the 5-pack, 72-cell configuration. I’m a little unclear what boards are necessary for a “complete” system-package that would monitor all 72 cells. Can you be specific as to what boards and how many of each is required. Also can you explain what boards and how many are “useful” for a bare minimum system and explain what bare minimum means. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #470
I suggest you start off by reading the draft user manual linked in a previous post..
Your questions are likely covered by it.

 

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I suggest you start off by reading the draft user manual linked in a previous post..
Your questions are likely covered by it.

I read the manual and frankly I didn't find it very useful with regard to answering my question. As the 'inventor' of this system, and the fact I was asking a question for the community, I thought your answer would be helpful to anybody who is remotely interested in your BMS Replacer project.
 

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Thank you for those files. I was going to ask about the wiring for the break out box. Btw when I downloaded the attachments they were named with .pdf at the end so if someone gets confused, just rename it to .zip.

Edit: Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have a FAQ somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #474 (Edited)
Good info. I’ve got a couple of questions though. At this time it seems more people are using the Honda Fit LTO batteries utilizing the 5-pack, 72-cell configuration. I’m a little unclear what boards are necessary for a “complete” system-package that would monitor all 72 cells. Can you be specific as to what boards and how many of each is required. Also can you explain what boards and how many are “useful” for a bare minimum system and explain what bare minimum means. Thanks
From ny post a couple of days ago.

The BCM Replacer Boards

The BCM replacer is currently divided up into 6 pcb's.
Not all of which are required depending on your chosen setup.

A Board. Required in all options. Includes 'E' breakout board.
(The main video, comms, CAN and processing board, with the two low voltage side OEM BCM harness connectors)

B-10 Board. (5 module) 10 x 22V Voltage Tap Variant
The voltage tap receptacle board with the OEM wiring high voltage BCM harness connector)
Required for those wanting OEM voltage tap modules and pack voltage tap sensing.

B-16 Board. (8 module) 16 x 22V Voltage Tap Variant
The voltage tap receptacle board with the non standard wiring high voltage BCM harness connector)
Required for those wanting extra voltage tap modules and pack voltage tap sensing.

C Board.
The voltage tap boards. Each board measures two 0-22V taps.
5 boards are required for an OEM 10 tap voltage sensing setup.
8 boards are required for the non standard 16 tap voltage sensing setup.

D Board. Required in all options.
The keypad board.

E Board. Required in all options.
The connector and auxiliary audible alarm breakout board.

To hopefully answer specifics..

1) The BCM Replacer at present itself doesn't monitor individual cells.
It monitors equal blocks/groups of cells using 22V volt capable taps in a similar way to the OEM nimh system.
It detects gross inter tap voltage variations to flag when a cell is empty/full etc..

The system uses plug in tap modules that each monitor 2 taps.
You can have from 0 to 8 tap modules, which equals 0-16 taps, at a maximum of 22V each.

So you need to work out how 72 cells divides equally between 0-16 taps.
9 taps = 8 cells per tap (You can use the standard ten tap 'B5' board)
12 taps = 6 cells per tap (You need the extended sixteen tap 'B-16' board)

So in order to monitor 72 cells in 9 blocks of 8 cells.... you need...

1x 'A' Main System Board
1x 'B-10' Tap Module Receptacle Board
5x 'C' Tap Modules Boards
1x 'D' Keypad Board
1x 'E' Breakout Board

If you want to monitor the individual cell level then presently you need a 72 cell 'Orion2' BMS properly configured to talk to the BCM Replacer..

In that case you can either have the system described above, and have some cross checking of data between the two systems, or you can rely on the Orion2 and have a minimal BCM Replacer configuration.

A minimal BCM Replacer when used with an Orion2 is..

1x 'A' Main System Board
1x 'D' Keypad Board
1x 'E' Breakout Board
 

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Peter, that last post was very helpful thank you!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Here is my review BCM Replacer after 2 weeks of daily driving

General

Because of a SoCal power outage and house guests, I did not get a chance to upgrade the firmware to the latest provided by Peter.

After some tweaking..
  • Max voltage >> 192
  • Min Voltage >>118
  • Mah capacity >> 4700
Replacer works without errors with one of my packs built from used OEM sticks.

Replacer appears to be functionally equivalent to OEM BCM but with much more control and monitoring capability

Display screen on head unit is much nicer that other gadget displays like OBDIIC&C. (it would be nice to have a similar setup for ODBIIC&C)

Main screen is well thought out and gives a good summary of what is going on with the battery pack

Stick pair deviation on main screen is an excellent indicator of pack balance - good summary of stick pair tap screen.

Keypad is easier to use than OBDIIC&C joystick

Inverse video is harder to read on my head unit

I did not see the screen flash inverse video on errors - could this be disabled if the auditable alarm is enabled.

Default fan settings are good - more aggressive than OEM BCM.

BullDog has done an excellent job with the packaging and mechanics of the replacer. I was fortunate that he could hand deliver it to me and trouble shoot my inadvertent setting of minimum pack voltage to 141. I drove and he tweaked for about 3 miles. He was also able to restore from Eeprom as I had not done a Backup to Eeprom to get me back to the default settings

Replacer works best on a known good pack. In my case I have several packs built with used sticks only one of them throws a code with the stock BCM. I was hoping to use the Replacer to isolate this pack's weak stick pair. After getting beeped to death and watching my problem pack get up to 47 degrees C, I gave up and swapped it with one that did not throw codes with the OEM BCM. Contributing factors were my lack of skill using the Replacer and the Replacer expecting a good pack. I plan on going back to the problem pack in the next week.

Default settings are for a full capacity OEM battery 6500mah- a rarity. My rebuilt packs range from 4700mah to 5500mah. OEM BCM appears to automatically compensate for reduced capacity packs.

Hardest part is popping the socket pins into the B and A BCM connector housing this is time consuming and easily prone to errors. It is difficult to do in place but equally as difficult is removing the harness from the vehicle to do this on the bench

Swapping battery packs is requires a new video and main harness along with another round of popping socket pins. Luckily I purchased two sets of harnesses.

Add a Quick start - a first pass - IMHO best to first use out of the box Firmware and skip the upgrade. I like step by step numbering instead of reading paragraphs.
  1. Find or measure your battery's mah capacity - you will need this to set the parameter If different than the 6500 mah default.
  2. Balance pack via Grid charge of 24 hours - see Standard NiMh Installation section.
  3. Print the Keypad Function Chart and keep it handy - I attached mine to the back of the keypad.
  4. Disconnect the 12V Battery
  5. Pop the sides off of both the BCM harness A and B connectors to enable you to insert the video and main harness female sockets into the housing.
  6. Install the larger main harness socket pins first. The video pins should be last as they are very fragile and are a real problem if they break off.
  7. Install the pre crimped socket pins in the back of the BCM Connector housings following BullDog's PDF. Use the following process for each socket pin:
    1. Using the adjacent pins as a guide to the orientation slide the socket pin in to the housing part way.
    2. Double check the color and location before inserting all the way as any mistake as it is quite difficult to remove the pin sockets if you mistakenly put them in the wrong housing position.
    3. Gently push the socket pin into the housing using a small screw driver - if socket pin does not slide in easily until you hear a click, pull the socket pin out and check for burrs or a mis shaped crimp.
  8. Install the Replacer with the 3 connectors
  9. Connect the 12V battery
  10. Turn on ignition but don't start the car.
  11. Spend the time as outlined in the Owner's Manual and go through all the Menus and setting screens.
  12. Go through all the Keypad functions on the main screen
  13. Set the mah capacity from step 1
  14. Start the car and see if you get any errors.
  15. If no errors take it for a test drive.
Keypad Function Chart
Display Screens Menu Screens
0. Clear Errors 0-9 select cmd
1. 20% SOC * next menu
2. 25% SOC # Exit Menus
3. 75% SOC
4. CANC Cycle
5. Toggle AssistF
6. Toggle RegenF
7. Toggle Audio
8. Inverse Video
9. Fan Control
# Next display screen
* Change to Menu mode

Tips and tricks
  • Best to keep your original BCM intact and working in case you need to go back to square one to troubleshoot. To do this you will need to find a spare BCM housing. You also may want to not bolt it down so you can easily swap it with the OEM BCM
  • You have to wait a few seconds to give the BCM replacer time to initialize otherwise it will start the ICE using the 12 Volt starter instead of the IMA motor. (Thanks to BullDog for pointing this out)
  • Battery capacity is set at 6500mha for the replacer out of the box. This is a fixed value in the replacer. For a used OEM pack the capacity will be less. Best to set this parameter to your pack's actual capacity (Config Menu B selection 8). I believe the mha capacity is dynamically updated in the OEM BCM.
  • SOC setting can be done for 20 25 or 75% From the main data display screen using the 1 2 and 3 keys respectively. If you need another setting you can tweak the Battery mah (Config Menu B - selection 9)
  • Beeps are always errors. Check the error screen when you hear a beep.
  • 0 and 8 are misread in both the documentation and on the Video display. Regular video seems to be easier to read than reverse.
  • Until you get really familiar with the Replacer avoid doing a backup to Eeprom. If you have not done a bakup to Eeprom then the Restore from Eeprom becomes a reset to factory default - Which you may need.
Feature requests
  • Battery capacity cycle sequence to determine mah capacity of pack. I think there is this function in the OBDIIC&C. Luckily I had the measured capacity of my pack handy.
  • Put the parameter title in the sub config page - it is easy to forget where you are. There is plenty of screen real estate.
  • Add a keypad display screen with the Keyboard function chart above for reference.
  • Use smaller gage wire to the crimps on the Main harness - match the OEM wire size. Larger wire makes routing and handling more difficult
  • Larger gauge wire on the Video harness crimps. At least 22 gauge. I broke one these small wires off and spent the better part of an hour removing the orphaned pin socket from the housing. I eventually but spliced pigtailed pins taken from a donor harness.
  • Move the single EXT_ALRM connection from connector A to a spare pin on Connector B. That way if you have to remove the pack the Replacer harnesses will stay with the pack and you won't have to cut any wires to remove the pack.
  • Consider providing a plug and play option where your Video and Main harness are integrated into a Male Female BCM pigtail I plan on building myself one provided I can procure or cannibalize a BCM to get AB male connector. This would make pack swaps much easier.
  • Put AssistF and RegenF flags on the main screen. This could be done with the toggling two the three * on the top line to A or R. This would complete things so you could easily see all keypad functions on the main screen.
  • It would be nice to be able to limit the assist/regen current some way. Say to 70 Amps for older high resistance packs. Currently I can see as high as 88 amps - this drops the voltage of my higher resistance pack to under 120V. If I recall the OEM BCM would only give me 70 amps assist. I got around this by lowering the minimum pack voltage to 118.
  • Consider adding a switch to go from Celsius to Fahrenheit like with the ODBIIC&C
  • Consider a screen showing all 4 of the thermistors like the stick pair screen. Currently only max an min are shown.
  • Blank inverse Screen is all white - should be black if your goal is not to distract driver
Owner's manual
  1. Screens and Configuration menus captures are a bit fuzzy and hard to read especially 0 and 8
  2. Add BullDog's BCM Connector pinout PDF to end of document.
  3. For Configuration menu F on pg 11 the screen shot is menu E
  4. Command Menu G on Pg 12 Screen capture shows MenuF
  5. Command Menu H on Pg 13 Screen capture shows MenuG
  6. Command Menu I on Pg 14 Screen capture shows MenuH
  7. Screen 5 (Diagnostic Data) My screen is different
Many thanks to BullDog and Peter for all the work and excellent results with the BCM Replacer
IMG-0073.JPG
IMG-0075.JPG
IMG-0102.JPG
 

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A couple of notes. In my experience, after a reset, the OEM BCM always assumes your pack has a total capacity of 6500mAh. Once you experience a negative re-calibration, the OEM BCM will assign a lower capacity value for SoC calculations.

The video is supposed to inverse when there is an alarm. If it isn't doing that automatically, it must have gotten disabled on your end. IIRC there is a setting for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #479
44Now Well done on getting it all installed and working.
Thanks for that comprehensive feedback and good ideas.
We shall digest it..
 

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Discussion Starter #480
My replies underlined.

Here is my review BCM Replacer after 2 weeks of daily driving.

Thanks for taking the time to post this useful feedback.


I did not see the screen flash inverse video on errors - could this be disabled if the audible alarm is enabled.

Yes. Inverse Video warnings can be disabled in the menus.


He was also able to restore from Eeprom as I had not done a Backup to Eeprom to get me back to the default settings

I had forgotten about this functionality. Yes if you fiddle around with stuff and get it wrong, then as long as you haven’t backed up your incorrect settings to the eeprom, you can restore to the original defaults.


Replacer works best on a known good pack. In my case I have several packs built with used sticks only one of them throws a code with the stock BCM. I was hoping to use the Replacer to isolate this pack's weak stick pair. After getting beeped to death and watching my problem pack get up to 47 degrees C, I gave up and swapped it with one that did not throw codes with the OEM BCM. Contributing factors were my lack of skill using the Replacer and the Replacer expecting a good pack. I plan on going back to the problem pack in the next week.

Turn off the beeps and activate the inverse video warnings instead if messing with a known bad pack. Assuming the BCM Replacer was detecting a voltage imbalance then it resets the SOC to a low level and starts a forced charge. The forced charge of course will heat already full cells. What did the voltage deviation screen show? The software will need work to avoid this scenario.


Default settings are for a full capacity OEM battery 6500mah- a rarity. My rebuilt packs range from 4700mah to 5500mah. OEM BCM appears to automatically compensate for reduced capacity packs.

This area of code will need working on as well. The BCM Replacer does not currently automatically adjust capacity downwards based on counted SOC or negative recals etc. I just choose 6500mah as that is the nominal capacity of stock cells. I’ll probably change this to something like 5000mah in the next release to give a more reasonable starting point.


Hardest part is popping the socket pins into the B and A BCM connector housing this is time consuming and easily prone to errors. It is difficult to do in place but equally as difficult is removing the harness from the vehicle to do this on the bench.

I agree this is tricky and you have to be careful, once pins have clicked in they are a PITA to get out if in the wrong place.


You have to wait a few seconds to give the BCM replacer time to initialize otherwise it will start the ICE using the 12 Volt starter instead of the IMA motor. (Thanks to BullDog for pointing this out)

Just wait until the IMA light goes off, then it will start with the IMA. The code does need speeding up/trimming at the beginning. ;)


Feature requests
  • Battery capacity cycle sequence to determine mah capacity of pack. I think there is this function in the OBDIIC&C. Luckily I had the measured capacity of my pack handy.
I’ll change this to something lower ~5000mah

  • Put the parameter title in the sub config page - it is easy to forget where you are. There is plenty of screen real estate.
Good idea.

  • Add a keypad display screen with the Keyboard function chart above for reference.
Probably won’t do this as writing to the screen uses a lot of code space, just print out the keypad details.

  • Use smaller gage wire to the crimps on the Main harness - match the OEM wire size. Larger wire makes routing and handling more difficult.
Bulldog.

  • Larger gauge wire on the Video harness crimps. At least 22 gauge. I broke one these small wires off and spent the better part of an hour removing the orphaned pin socket from the housing. I eventually but spliced pigtailed pins taken from a donor harness.
Bulldog.

  • Move the single EXT_ALRM connection from connector A to a spare pin on Connector B. That way if you have to remove the pack the Replacer harnesses will stay with the pack and you won't have to cut any wires to remove the pack.
Good idea if possible.

  • Consider providing a plug and play option where your Video and Main harness are integrated into a Male Female BCM pigtail I plan on building myself one provided I can procure or cannibalize a BCM to get AB male connector. This would make pack swaps much easier.
Def consideration. I use something similar myself on my test prototype.

  • Put AssistF and RegenF flags on the main screen. This could be done with the toggling two the three * on the top line to A or R. This would complete things so you could easily see all keypad functions on the main screen.
Will do.

  • It would be nice to be able to limit the assist/regen current some way. Say to 70 Amps for older high resistance packs. Currently I can see as high as 88 amps - this drops the voltage of my higher resistance pack to under 120V. If I recall the OEM BCM would only give me 70 amps assist. I got around this by lowering the minimum pack voltage to 118.
Actual current levels are not under BCM control asfaik, or if they are we haven’t found the magic codes yet. It maybe if we fake the battery temperature higher to the MCM it will cutback it’s demands.
You might be able to test beta code for this ;)


  • Consider adding a switch to go from Celsius to Fahrenheit like with the ODBIIC&C
Time to get into the 21st century ;) OK partly joking, it’s not a trivial change because all the error comparisons / checks have to be changed as well. Codespace is limited.

Consider a screen showing all 4 of the thermistors like the stick pair screen. Currently only max and min are shown.

Good idea.


  • Blank inverse Screen is all white - should be black if your goal is not to distract driver
It is, or should be, so maybe you have a duff setting? The backlight will still be on, as the BCM Replacer cannot control your head unit LCD. There will always be backlight bleed even with the black screen.


Owner's manual (This is still very early days)

Screens and Configuration menus captures are a bit fuzzy and hard to read especially 0 and 8

Add BullDog's BCM Connector pinout PDF to end of document.

For Configuration menu F on pg 11 the screen shot is menu E

Command Menu G on Pg 12 Screen capture shows MenuF

Command Menu H on Pg 13 Screen capture shows MenuG

Command Menu I on Pg 14 Screen capture shows MenuH

Screen 5 (Diagnostic Data) My screen is different

Many thanks to BullDog and Peter for all the work and excellent results with the BCM Replacer
Thanks for your support and feedback.
 
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