I read the manual and frankly I didn't find it very useful with regard to answering my question. As the 'inventor' of this system, and the fact I was asking a question for the community, I thought your answer would be helpful to anybody who is remotely interested in your BMS Replacer project.I suggest you start off by reading the draft user manual linked in a previous post..
Your questions are likely covered by it.
The BCM Replacer Owners Manual. V01 Introduction If you have had your Insight for a while, you may have heard of the ‘BCM Replacer’. It’s a first generation Honda Insight ZE1 specific PIC-based replacement for the OEM IMA system BCM (Battery Control Module). Uncased BCM Replacer PCB’s. The BCM...docs.google.com
From ny post a couple of days ago.Good info. I’ve got a couple of questions though. At this time it seems more people are using the Honda Fit LTO batteries utilizing the 5-pack, 72-cell configuration. I’m a little unclear what boards are necessary for a “complete” system-package that would monitor all 72 cells. Can you be specific as to what boards and how many of each is required. Also can you explain what boards and how many are “useful” for a bare minimum system and explain what bare minimum means. Thanks
Thanks for your support and feedback.Here is my review BCM Replacer after 2 weeks of daily driving.
Thanks for taking the time to post this useful feedback.
I did not see the screen flash inverse video on errors - could this be disabled if the audible alarm is enabled.
Yes. Inverse Video warnings can be disabled in the menus.
He was also able to restore from Eeprom as I had not done a Backup to Eeprom to get me back to the default settings
I had forgotten about this functionality. Yes if you fiddle around with stuff and get it wrong, then as long as you haven’t backed up your incorrect settings to the eeprom, you can restore to the original defaults.
Replacer works best on a known good pack. In my case I have several packs built with used sticks only one of them throws a code with the stock BCM. I was hoping to use the Replacer to isolate this pack's weak stick pair. After getting beeped to death and watching my problem pack get up to 47 degrees C, I gave up and swapped it with one that did not throw codes with the OEM BCM. Contributing factors were my lack of skill using the Replacer and the Replacer expecting a good pack. I plan on going back to the problem pack in the next week.
Turn off the beeps and activate the inverse video warnings instead if messing with a known bad pack. Assuming the BCM Replacer was detecting a voltage imbalance then it resets the SOC to a low level and starts a forced charge. The forced charge of course will heat already full cells. What did the voltage deviation screen show? The software will need work to avoid this scenario.
Default settings are for a full capacity OEM battery 6500mah- a rarity. My rebuilt packs range from 4700mah to 5500mah. OEM BCM appears to automatically compensate for reduced capacity packs.
This area of code will need working on as well. The BCM Replacer does not currently automatically adjust capacity downwards based on counted SOC or negative recals etc. I just choose 6500mah as that is the nominal capacity of stock cells. I’ll probably change this to something like 5000mah in the next release to give a more reasonable starting point.
Hardest part is popping the socket pins into the B and A BCM connector housing this is time consuming and easily prone to errors. It is difficult to do in place but equally as difficult is removing the harness from the vehicle to do this on the bench.
I agree this is tricky and you have to be careful, once pins have clicked in they are a PITA to get out if in the wrong place.
You have to wait a few seconds to give the BCM replacer time to initialize otherwise it will start the ICE using the 12 Volt starter instead of the IMA motor. (Thanks to BullDog for pointing this out)
Just wait until the IMA light goes off, then it will start with the IMA. The code does need speeding up/trimming at the beginning.
I’ll change this to something lower ~5000mah
- Battery capacity cycle sequence to determine mah capacity of pack. I think there is this function in the OBDIIC&C. Luckily I had the measured capacity of my pack handy.
- Put the parameter title in the sub config page - it is easy to forget where you are. There is plenty of screen real estate.
Probably won’t do this as writing to the screen uses a lot of code space, just print out the keypad details.
- Add a keypad display screen with the Keyboard function chart above for reference.
- Use smaller gage wire to the crimps on the Main harness - match the OEM wire size. Larger wire makes routing and handling more difficult.
- Larger gauge wire on the Video harness crimps. At least 22 gauge. I broke one these small wires off and spent the better part of an hour removing the orphaned pin socket from the housing. I eventually but spliced pigtailed pins taken from a donor harness.
Good idea if possible.
- Move the single EXT_ALRM connection from connector A to a spare pin on Connector B. That way if you have to remove the pack the Replacer harnesses will stay with the pack and you won't have to cut any wires to remove the pack.
Def consideration. I use something similar myself on my test prototype.
- Consider providing a plug and play option where your Video and Main harness are integrated into a Male Female BCM pigtail I plan on building myself one provided I can procure or cannibalize a BCM to get AB male connector. This would make pack swaps much easier.
- Put AssistF and RegenF flags on the main screen. This could be done with the toggling two the three * on the top line to A or R. This would complete things so you could easily see all keypad functions on the main screen.
Actual current levels are not under BCM control asfaik, or if they are we haven’t found the magic codes yet. It maybe if we fake the battery temperature higher to the MCM it will cutback it’s demands.
- It would be nice to be able to limit the assist/regen current some way. Say to 70 Amps for older high resistance packs. Currently I can see as high as 88 amps - this drops the voltage of my higher resistance pack to under 120V. If I recall the OEM BCM would only give me 70 amps assist. I got around this by lowering the minimum pack voltage to 118.
You might be able to test beta code for this
Time to get into the 21st century OK partly joking, it’s not a trivial change because all the error comparisons / checks have to be changed as well. Codespace is limited.
- Consider adding a switch to go from Celsius to Fahrenheit like with the ODBIIC&C
Consider a screen showing all 4 of the thermistors like the stick pair screen. Currently only max and min are shown.
It is, or should be, so maybe you have a duff setting? The backlight will still be on, as the BCM Replacer cannot control your head unit LCD. There will always be backlight bleed even with the black screen.
- Blank inverse Screen is all white - should be black if your goal is not to distract driver
Owner's manual (This is still very early days)
Screens and Configuration menus captures are a bit fuzzy and hard to read especially 0 and 8
Add BullDog's BCM Connector pinout PDF to end of document.
For Configuration menu F on pg 11 the screen shot is menu E
Command Menu G on Pg 12 Screen capture shows MenuF
Command Menu H on Pg 13 Screen capture shows MenuG
Command Menu I on Pg 14 Screen capture shows MenuH
Screen 5 (Diagnostic Data) My screen is different
Many thanks to BullDog and Peter for all the work and excellent results with the BCM Replacer