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vote 4 mawah
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Discussion Starter #1
My HCH2 likes 80F to 90F the best. I've never taken it to the desert so I can't say for sure if it might like it even hotter and 90 is plenty hot enough for me too.

As the temperature drops below mid 60's engine, motor/pack warmup starts taking it's toll on both pack balance and mpg. When the car was new reduced mpg was not noticeable until temps dipped below freezin by 4 or so degree. But with old packs I notice the mpg hit at much warmer temps.
I tend to hold off on winterizing as well, especially if I'm making trips south.
Will someone please kick so I winterize NOW. :)

Does anyone have friends in Bismarck or Sacred Stone where the pipeline is crossing the Missouri? Check this weeks temps and imagine what your mpg would look like if you were there next week.
https://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=pws:KNDBISMA31&MR=1
 

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Fwiw: VW had a winter air intake duct that regulated the temp of air to 85F iirc. [Golf/marking on airbox]. There's likely a sweet spot for air intake temps. I'd guess it's in Japan somewhere.[ :eek: ]

I had a warm air intake
http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/AbCaRed00/media/hondainsightintakeairshroud800.jpg.html?sort=6&o=28
and ran it after winter. I'd agree with others who ran one that engine power falls off at around 44C [over 110F Iat] with a very 'lopey' idle quite pronounced around Iat 50C [tops i saw before easily removing hose connection when stuck in traffic on new pavement on a hot day. The engine sound with Iat at that temp was 'overcammed' and 'loping' / a lean-mix surging and it _almost_ stalls. Too hot in latter instance, but generally great mpg with hot air intake.]
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+1 on mpg down in the cold.
OAT = -23C, Bvo = 182 [max] SoC = 82% [max, self heating] Bam = ~4-8A background and often 4 bars, Ect=68C around town. Eld ~44-55A.
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FCD 8.4L/100km that's 20 mpg US 24 Imp 11km/L.. ..
It may not make a big difference to the pocket book with cheap gas, but you will be warmer faster and the car will like warm air intake and a rad cover.
 

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My car seems to have a little more pep and runs best just below 80° ambient.

I've moved the ambient air temperature sensor inside the engine room (as the Japanese call it) to the bolt that mounts the ground cables under the air cleaner. So that might have some affect too.

No need for a warm air intake down here.
 

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Will someone please kick so I winterize NOW.
Don't think I've heard the term winterize, for decades now. Coolant lasts 100,000 miles now and electric fans and thermostats keep the engine at a steady temperature whether it's 100 or 0 degrees out.
 

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Don't think I've heard the term winterize, for decades now. Coolant lasts 100,000 miles now and electric fans and thermostats keep the engine at a steady temperature whether it's 100 or 0 degrees out.
Intake air temp is what matters, and that varies wildly.
 

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Hypermiler
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AbCa touched on something I recall Jime talking about. Jim remembered (but could not find the post) reading about someone experimenting with IAT and found 115 deg to be the 'sweet spot' for mpg (driving conditions and tranny type unknown).

I use an adjustable (lawn mower choke cables) grill block and warm air mod on my cvt car to minimize the effect of varying ambient temps and lessen the winter hit on mpg.

Following a thorough warm-up to normal operating temps on the car, I made several runs on the same stretch of interstate (both directions), at different ambient temps including cold temps. With mild ambient temps (40's-50's) I saw about a 5% increase in mpg by maintaining IAT at or near 115 (compared with no grill block, and no warm air attempt). With ambient temps in the 20's-30's this dropped to about 3%. With ambients in the single digits and below, I saw no improvement on mpg.

Winter blend of fuel is a factor, as well as denser air mass to drive through.

I do see a much quicker warm-up from stone cold to normal op temps with the blocks, so I in the long run there is some benefit.

btw: I also have the belly pan under the car.
 

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vote 4 mawah
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Discussion Starter #8
winter mods

I started out real easy with my winter mods. I got a block heater to help with hypermilage back when gas was still $4/gal here. It sure helped alot by reducing the warmup cycle time which in turn warmed everything else up quicker.
Then I went for the grille block and I didn't plugup all the holes like I do now. There was still the air of caution concerning overheating with all the holes plugged up.

I like the warm air intake, but I don't see how the temp get regulated yet. Ah ha, manually removing the hose with temps over 50C and the choke cable?
I've seen IAT's in the 30's when temps are really low. M. Driver do you remember what IAT's were for you during the single digit ambient air temp runs you made?
I made a 50 mi trip monday night 12 dec in light snow. I lifted the hood to check the oil and found a light dusting of snow right in front of the air intake.

I finally got my grille block in place tuesday 13 dec and dug my block heater plug out from behind the grille. But the block heater doesn't work anymore, so I'll get that on my todo list for the spring. I do however heat both sides of my pack, which in turn also heats the interior.
This combination also reduces warmup cycle times and helps mpg considerably. Sill not as much as if I also had the block heater working too. Positively thinking 4 or 5 extra winter mpg more or less.
 

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Hypermiler
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Page 28 post 271 here I put up 3 pics. The first one you can see the kitchen drain pipe (passenger side of engine bay) with a white plastic "window" attached, operable by the upper choke cable pull in the cabin. It allows ambient air to mix with warm air for manual temp management. The obdiic&c displays the temps.

The 2nd pic shows the chloroplast grill block (2 pieces which slide over one another). Operable from the lower choke cable pull. On the bottom of the previous page are the pieces during assembly.

Both of these were a good bit of trouble to make, and I haven't repeated the mods on my other cars.
 
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