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2010
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New member, Thanks in advance. New owner of 2010 with 153k on it. After we purchased it the previous owner disclosed he had mpg drop after changing plugs at 100k to auto lite, so I thought first thing I’d do was get the NGK plugs in as the autolites were probably near the end of their life anyways.
cylinder 1(front) extremely difficult to remove, soaked it, then muscled it out. Cylinder 2(front) very worn. Cylinder 4(front) boot and plug covered with white gunk, well stained orange, (rust?). All plugs had some oil on them.
When I looked inside the questionable boot the wire looked bent, as if it might not have had good contact, and was corroded as well.
Hand tightened all new plugs firmly without torque wrench before I found this forum.
Took it for a short test drive and immediately noticed a rapid ticking sound, at times almost like static when driving, but when I listen under the hood more like a sewing machine. I ordered a new boot for $11 which I’ll replace tomorrow, but I’m looking for any other ideas or suggestions-this is now our family car and we’d like to take it for another 150k.
On an aside is there any way to find out if my car got the reprogramming recall?
 

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Does 2010 have a coil for each plug? "Ticking" sounds like possibly a flashover spark on a high-voltage ignition wire. Or maybe a loose valve, which shouldn't have been caused by a plug change.
 

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2001 5S "Turbo"
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"Hand tightened firmly" is not enough. 17 ft. lbs std. spec. IIRR, that's "tightly"
 

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2010
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes there are 8 coils. I was guessing noise was arc from the damaged boot or a misfire.
I used the wrong description, I tightened the plugs with a socket, tightening them until I felt they were as tight as I could comfortably go, (well past “firm,” but I couldn’t guess what a torque wrench would register it s as.) I will take your advice and borrow or buy a torque wrench. The manual states 13 lb ft. Lb, Is 17 for a different year or a modification to the specs?
 

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2010
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay
I replaced the questionable boot. Noticed some moisture in boot when I pulled it. Ran engine, no change.
took a deep breath.
Did the whole plug access routine again, pulled and inspected each plug, tightened to 13ft lb per the 2010 manual I downloaded, (thanks, IC,) then replaced coils, exhaust side first, per manual.
Test drive came up the same or worse.
Partner and our kids are leaving today for three hour trip to her folks place, not too excited about the “tune up” I gave our new car.
Did I screw something up forcing that cylinder one plug? Why is there so much oxidation in cylinder 4 intake? Could it be oxidation fell into cylinder during plug change screening things up? Does the computer need to relearn timing after a plug change?
Any ideas for next places to look are are appreciated.
 

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2010
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well, L called when she got up to her folks place and said the ticking had resolved! (I’m only a tiny bit nervous she doesn’t hear engines the same way I do...) also, averaged 48 mpg for the drive! (Trip meter was at around 36 mpg when we bought it.) and this at temps in the mid 30s.
Unless I hear something different when they come home, I’ll consider this case closed...
 

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The only way to check on the software is by connecting the car at the Honda dealer. That said, this was a campaign,
(recalls are mandated and often safety related) so you could try registering at:


That will show any "open" recalls.
 
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