[grumpiestgolfer]

I've read through the website but still tons to get through. Y'all know what you're talking about. I can't find anything that directly discusses my problem. I'm holding off with my hypothesis for now because I want to see if any of what you guys come up with matches. I was driving home the other night and had trouble getting the car started. Once it did, the "BRAKE" and battery light remained on. Exiting my workplace I had the "ABS" and the power steering light come on (I think "PSM"). Car still worked fine but was a little harder to steer (for obvious reasons). Once up to speed on the highway I lost all lights except the warning lights and the LED running lights I installed. The headlights, radio panel, and entire dashboard went dark. As an aviator, I thought immediately this was some kind of battery issue and didn't dare stop out in the middle of nowhere where I work as the generator/engine was still working. I had my wife meet me on the highway and trip all the traffic lights to green right ahead of me so I could make it home. The car did NOT shut off when I came to a stop finally at home as I expected that it would. All that being said, what do you think the problem is? It is a 2000 manual transmission Insight, recently replaced 12V battery and original IMA that I put on a tender about every 6 months.

 

[Rainsux]

Ground Straps.

Sam

 

[freezin4]

I second that. Check all 4 under the hood.

 

[grumpiestgolfer]

Thanks for the help. I'm going to replace those. To give you an update I went out to start the car to try to take it to the auto parts store and see if I could get a reading on the codes. The car lights all came on but it didn't have enough power to start. I jumped it with the wife's car and it started fine. The IMA light was not on but the battery gauge was at zero bars. I left the car running while I was in the store and it recharged all the way to full. I turned the car on and off several times without issue. Still sound like the ground wires to you?

Two other things, the auto parts store was unable to help with the codes and the other warning light I listed was actually "EPS" not "PSM".

 

[Rainsux]

Have your 12V load tested while you're there.

Sam

 

[Mario]

The symptoms in the original post sound to me like the IMA battery is completely toast and the DC-DC has stopped charging the 12V battery. Especially if the IMA battery is original! I guarantee it's pretty much no good anymore, even with a grid charger.

I had my IMA battery go out and experienced the same symptoms. Since the car wasn't charging the 12V battery anymore, it just slowly drained until everything shut off, one-by-one.

Does your IMA light work? It should light for a couple seconds when you turn the key on.

There is an IMA bypass procedure that you can follow if you don't want to buy a new battery. You'll lose electric assist, but the car will drive normally otherwise.
Checking the ground straps is a good place to start, but I personally doubt they're the problem.

 

[Rainsux]

But he said his IMA light wasn't on. So, 1) ground straps and 2) 12V. When he knows those are good he can move on. I agree that the recal was caused by temporarily losing the 12V, but we don't know why yet.

Sam

 

[Mario]

That's why I wanted to know if his IMA light comes at all. It is possible it's burned out or something.

 

[Gadget01]

I was driving home the other night and had trouble getting the car started. Once it did, the "BRAKE" and battery light remained on. Exiting my workplace I had the "ABS" and the power steering light come on (I think "PSM"). Car still worked fine but was a little harder to steer (for obvious reasons). Once up to speed on the highway I lost all lights except the warning lights and the LED running lights I installed. The headlights, radio panel, and entire dashboard went dark

My truck did this exact same thing when the alternator failed. I had a friend hook up jumper cables and rev his engine above normal idle. After 15 minutes of charging, my own battery had enough power for the drive home and avoided a tow.

In the Insight, the gauge cluster battery and brake indicators illuminate together to indicate the DC converter is not providing 14v to maintain your 12v battery, similar to what an alternator would do in one of those weird non-hybid cars. If you remove your IMA pack and do not do the bypass procedure, you will see the same indications. Without the DC converter's output, the 12v can only sustain the car for a limited time. Using headlights, A/C or fan blower or any other accessory will only accelerate the process of killing the battery's charge until it's completely depleted and you're in for a deadstick landing with manual gear extension and no radio.

The first thing I would check is the 100A fuse on the IMA pack board. Then the ground from the 12v battery to the firewall. Even though your 12v battery is new, if it's a typical lead-acid and it was depleted past a certain point to where it won't sustain your gauge cluster, I would recommend having the battery tested. It probably just needs a healthy charge but some cell damage may have occurred.

My Insight has been plagued by just about every problem anyone has ever had with an Insight. They are all curable with the help of our generous forum members, some foul language, and some hand-tools.

 

[jime]

The symptoms in the original post sound to me like the IMA battery is completely toast and the DC-DC has stopped charging the 12V battery. Especially if the IMA battery is original! I guarantee it's pretty much no good anymore, even with a grid charger.

I had my IMA battery go out and experienced the same symptoms. Since the car wasn't charging the 12V battery anymore, it just slowly drained until everything shut off, one-by-one.

+1 on this one. Same experience as mine. But the IMA light should be on, if it is working.

Check grounds, IMA light function, then charge and load test 12V - as others have said. Report back.

 

[grumpiestgolfer]

You guys are great. Sorry it has taken me so long to respond. Just been busy. I have replaced 3 of the four ground straps. I can't find the forth so maybe somebody could help. I looked up pictures but can't tell from the picture where the fourth is because it is zoomed in on it.

Anyway, I tested the 12V and it was bad so I replaced that as well. The LED running lights were hard wired to the battery so I disconnected those thinking they might be constantly draining the battery (though the lights aren't on when the car is off so...). I also tested the ground straps I could find with a volt meter and they all showed zero discharge. And lastly to answer one of the questions asked, the IMA light comes on during the start up process as do all the lights but then extinguishes after a couple of seconds.

It was explained to me that all the 12V does is start the car and then should not be used after that except to be recharged by the car. So, if it was indeed the bad battery not holding a charge anymore, why would the electric go out while driving if the car is still running? By that logic, the battery going out should not cause all of the electric to go out. Thanks in advance.

 

[Gadget01]

It was explained to me that all the 12V does is start the car and then should not be used after that except to be recharged by the car. So, if it was indeed the bad battery not holding a charge anymore, why would the electric go out while driving if the car is still running? By that logic, the battery going out should not cause all of the electric to go out. Thanks in advance.

The 12v battery powers the ECU, keyless remote system, door locks, radio, ignition, etc. When the IMA battery is disabled or not present, it will power the traditional starter motor. There are also normal conditions while driving where the DC converter goes into standby and the car relies on the 12v battery for all functions other than HV IMA specifics. If the battery is weak or the connections are bad, erratic functions should be expected.