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Discussion Starter #1
Had a 2000 insight 5spd, no leaks, new fluids, battery was in poor condition, barely any assist. No under engine panels, hole in hood from accident, one of the front tire panels and deflectors ripped off, but I would easily get 80mpg. If I really tried, I could break 105mpg. I could accelerate slowly, while still showing around 60mpg on the gauge thingy.

Traded for another 2000 insight 5spd, no leaks, similar mileage, but seemingly much better maintained. Has ima c&c, obd2 gauge thing, new bumblebee 180volt, scotts underbody panel, all oem panels are intact and tight, plug in engine heater... Engine drives SOO much quieter than my old one. Only thing we know of that is a negative for mpg is its running mobile eco 0w30. If i never looked down at the mpg gauge, I would think I got a better car.

Except I'm not able to accelerate in the 50-60mpg range (I have to give it so much gas it's showing 25ish mpg just to accelerate slowly) cant maintain or coast accelerate down hills, I constantly have to be giving it some gas, and i've never seen it above 80mpg on the dash gauge.

Car has much better aero, much better battery, so why the 40% disparity in mpg? Does the 10 difference in oil weight make that big of a difference?

I'm thinking there is something wrong with the engine, not being able to give any power until a bunch of throttle is added. Although, it still won't coast in neutral, it slows down so much.

This is all on the same exact tires, roads, direction, same gear, similar temperatures (all within 1 week). I'm very aware of what I'm doing while driving.

Any ideas?

I'm out 2100 dollars, and a much better mpg machine. Help!
 

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Welcome to IC.

These are the kind of issues that are probably going to require a test drive by an experienced and qualified member. For that you need to connect with said member. We need your location, it is traditional and useful. Please click "User CP" above, then in the left bar "edit your details" to add a rough location such as city.

There could be several things going on. The engine could have some sort of power issue, as you mention. You could also have a very weak IMA battery which is doing a lot of 4 bar balance charging, or you could have dragging caliphers(check for excess wheel temperatures). Other may suggest other possibilities, but you need to have someone with experience drive it:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank for your response. I updated my location, southwest utah.

I think of your suggestions, I'd rule out bad battery, I can use bat assist liberally (a few minutes at a time) and the %soc goes down less than 10%. It also assists and charges quite rapidly.

Can I check for dragging brakes by simply jacking up the car and spinning the wheel by hand? I know on some cars, I can also check the wheel bearing play in the air.

Does anyone know if the front or rear wheel bearings can be loosened or tightened? I was thinking a bearing might be too tight.

I am willing to drive a few hours one way to meet a member for diagnostics, so anyone in Las Vegas, or Salt Lake City?
 

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Can I check for dragging brakes by simply jacking up the car and spinning the wheel by hand? I know on some cars, I can also check the wheel bearing play in the air.
Yes, those are good ideas. You can check drag by just spinning a front wheel. Expect a slight drag as all disc brake have a small amount.

Does anyone know if the front or rear wheel bearings can be loosened or tightened? I was thinking a bearing might be too tight.
No the bearings aren't adjustable. They are permanently lubricated sealed units. They do sometimes wear out and start making crunchy noises but you'll notice that.

You should obviously check the rears also.

[/QUOTE]
 

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Need more info on driving style. Speed and rpm and gear normally used esp. when accel. at 50-60 mph. How many miles on the engine? Maybe a video?
We have a very good (mechanic) Insight member living in Utah, I believe in the southern section, maybe he will respond to assist also.
 

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What tires do you have? What tire pressure do you have? Is the car alignment correct? Does it have the correct spark plugs? Does it have the correct transmission gear oil? Are your brakes dragging? Does it coast good in neutral? Maybe your valves are adjusted too tight these engines are not suposed to run too quiet?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Need more info on driving style. Speed and rpm and gear normally used esp. when accel. at 50-60 mph. How many miles on the engine? Maybe a video?
We have a very good (mechanic) Insight member living in Utah, I believe in the southern section, maybe he will respond to assist also.
Driving style differs wildly dependent on my mood, and distance for the trip. Sometimes I shift at 15, 25, 35, 45, 50 and other times its 20,40, 55, 90, and i never get to 5th becuase of the grade and speed.

My driving style overall is exactly the same on this car, so why does it matter? Not picking a fight, just curious how that helps a diagnosis.

175,000miles on engine.

What tires do you have? What tire pressure do you have? Is the car alignment correct? Does it have the correct spark plugs? Does it have the correct transmission gear oil? Are your brakes dragging? Does it coast good in neutral? Maybe your valves are adjusted too tight these engines are not suposed to run too quiet?
Previous owner said the valves were recently adjusted, and had an alignment 10k ago. Tires are 50psi insight potenzas. not quite to wear bars.

oem honda spark plugs, matching head casting

oem honda trans fluid

Have yet to check the brakes dragging

No it does not coast well in neutral. Substantially worse than my old insight.

Perhaps, I cant hear the engine at all. Maybe a tiny bit over 40%throttle. My old insight was super rattly and loose sounding, especially around 40-50mpg on the gauge. It would quiet down if adding or subtracting throttle.
 

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Maybe your catalytic converter is plugged?
 

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Well you need to find out why its not coasting well

I suspect the valves were adjusted too tight recheck the valve clearance
 

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As far as the cat you can remove it ad easily see if it is plugged its very easy to remove (assuming its not all rusty)

What city do u live im about to drive from el paso to portland oregon if u are in my path maybe i can drop by
 

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OP:
Driving style matters, as most Insighters are dedicated high mileage people. Then there are some who are in the NORMAL level and then some of us who are in the SPORT type driving most of the time.
Then there are some who have a REDNECK TUNE UP ever so often. (Drive it like you stole it)
Low RPM and High throttle openings will plug the CAT sooner or later.
Everything depends on the LOAD on the engine as far as mileage in MPG goes.
 

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Sorry, I live right on the Mexican border, no Italians or Ferraris here!
 

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Lol i work in Mexico and live on the border lots of ferraris and maseratis but i guess most mechanics are of Mexican decent so you got a point
 

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Although, it still won't coast in neutral, it slows down so much.
This definitely sounds like a brake problem to me. Like others have said, go for a drive and feel your wheels to see if they're excessively hot. The parking brake could be dragging as well.
 

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Only thing we know of that is a negative for mpg is its running mobile eco 0w30.

Except I'm not able to accelerate in the 50-60mpg range (I have to give it so much gas it's showing 25ish mpg just to accelerate slowly) cant maintain or coast accelerate down hills, I constantly have to be giving it some gas, and i've never seen it above 80mpg on the dash gauge.

I'd go with Sam on this one, could be a plugged up cat. Are there any dash MILs showing?

Does the 10 difference in oil weight make that big of a difference?

Even with my car running 0-20wt I see less than 40 mpg for ~1/2 mile until the engine warms up some.

I'm thinking there is something wrong with the engine, not being able to give any power until a bunch of throttle is added. Although, it still won't coast in neutral, it slows down so much.

This is all on the same exact tires, roads, direction, same gear, similar temperatures (all within 1 week). I'm very aware of what I'm doing while driving.

Any ideas?
Help!
First thing I'd do is check for dragging brakes.
You didn't mention it but does the car go into lean burn easily? Dragging brakes would certainly mess up lean burn.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
First thing I'd do is check for dragging brakes.
You didn't mention it but does the car go into lean burn easily? Dragging brakes would certainly mess up lean burn.
The wheels didn't seem hot, and I didn't notice any smells, but the e-brake is fully engaged (as in, it locks the car in place on a steep grade) at maybe 5 clicks up from resting position.

I'm not exactly sure when it goes into lean burn, but the car will max the mpg gauge if i don't touch the throttle.

Oh, and I also noticed the throttle position % is at 9% when my foot is off the throttle. I floored it with the engine off just to see what the tps would read at full throttle, and it only went to 92%. Maybe this info is pertinent.

Oh, and no check engine lights on the dash.
 

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9% is the correct reading when at idle or foot off accelerator pedal.(when decelerating)
92% is wide open.
With a steady throttle and a very slight downhill around 60 mph, if the "Floating bar mpg gauge" goes to around 80 mpg ypu are probably in lean burn. The hardest part is training your foot to be steady. I use the vacuum/turbo gauge and try to stay around 18" of vacuum to get into lean burn. Then increase the throttle to get 8" of vacuum to get the most use of lean burn action. I have seen as high as 84 MPH in lean burn for a "Normal Cycle".
You will have some good Insight mechanics in the Las Vegas area Nov. 1-2. Maybe drive down and have your vehicle evaluated.

What are you using to read the TPS?
 
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