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Discussion Starter #1
EBAY item number: 150026726125 ----- BEST OFFER: $7000 - contractual terms: "I reserve the right to test-drive the car on the local interstate. If I find any indication the car is not operating correctly (for example, no lean burn, rough engine, bad high-voltage battery, et cetera), then the offer is void."

(1) I test-drove it. Everything seemed flawless (autostop, lean-burn functioning, battery good). BUT then I revved up the engine to enter the Interstate. The car suddenly jerked as if it was stalling & the engine light came on. Afterwards the engine refused to rev higher than 4000. Sounds like a VTEC problem to me? (Is there some kind of safety program built-in by Honda to stop the engine from exceeding 4000 while the "engine check light is on"?)

(2) The wife insisted I am "bound by contract" to take the car, and would take me to court if I refused to pay. I say my offer was contingent upon the car working properly (see above).

(3) So the husband insisted there's nothing wrong & sure enough the problem magically "disappeared" while he was driving. Also, it appeared that the rev limiter was not working- he revved it to 7000 and it never kicked in. Odd! (Could lack of a rev limiter and possibly over-revving have caused some engine damage?)

I don't know. I don't feel any obligation to pay for a car that has a messed-up engine. (It was included in the terms of sale that my offer is void if the car has problems.) But at the same time I'm disappointed, because the car seemed flawless upto the point where the engine refused to exceed 4000.

- Should I buy and take the risk that it was just some weird fluke?

- Or refuse to buy and risk getting sued?

:-|
 

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AFAIK depending on the MIL (check engine light) code the rev limiter will restrict engine RPMs to what you expereinced. IMO and without other symptoms very unlikely a mechanical engine related problem.

Related to the salvaged title :?: May yes, maybe no. Could be relatively inexpensive or "ouch" that hurts :!:

Sued :?: :lol: Don't see how given the stated "contract".

However, you'll be hard pressed not to get stuck with negative eBay feedback.

HTH! :)

FYI Troy's fragmented eariler segment of this topic is here:

23 mpg - time to get a new car (an insight of course)?
http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/vie ... php?t=5357
 

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Personally I would not purchase the car. It sounds like there are problems not to mention it having a "salvaged" title.

They could take you to court but at worst they could only recover their loss, meaning the difference between what you were to pay and what they wind up selling it for. The courts cannot force you to purchase the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Insightful Trekker said:
AFAIK depending on the MIL code the rev limiter will restrict engine RPMs to what you expereinced.
Hmmm... I wonder what could have made the Code activate? I was driving in 3rd gear at the time, accelerating from 40 to 50 mph, when suddenly the car just "jerked" and refused to go over 4000 rpm. Scared me!

I have never experienced anything like that in an insight.
 

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Until / unless the code is retrieved, preferably including the freeze frame data and some further inspection is done we'll never know for sure.

Or unless you follow-up on your purchase plans then IMO its just a matter of time before the problem recurrs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Insightful Trekker said:
unless you follow-up on your purchase plans then IMO its just a matter of time before the problem recurrs.
That's a cheery thought. I'd rather not have to repeat the experience of a 4000 redine. It's frustrating to drive like that... the car feels weak.
 

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ElectricTroy said:
I'd rather not have to repeat the experience of a 4000 redine. It's frustrating to drive like that... the car feels weak.
Well you could get out and help push :lol: (not quite literally, but I agree with your assessment).

Unless the 12v to the PCM is lost then the event that caused the MIL and subsequent loss of power will be recorded.

Once the fault is isolated and repaired you'll be OK 'til next time. Whenever that is. Maybe almost never. But it is a more common recurrance with salvaged vehicles. It all depends on the type of damage and the thoroughness of repairs. Some types / degrees of damage probably shouldn't be attempted to be repaired, e.g. flood damage because of the cost and poor long term reliability.

HTH! :)
 

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Was the IMA system working when it would not rev?
Did assist seem O.K.?

Looks like the guy you bought it from does body work.
Under their feedback, I could see a body kit for a BMW, headlight assemblies for a BMW, Navigator front bumper, Mustang louvers, and spare lens for a full face respirator. (for painting in a booth)
How did the paint look?
Could you tell if any more parts had been changed?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
According to autocheck, the damage was superficial. Rear-ended in the left but the original owner was still driving it. ----- And then about 1 year later, front-ended on the right fender/bumper. At that point the insurance company declared it "salvage". It was later repaired and declared "rebuilt" by the state of michigan about three months ago.

Looking at it, you can not see any damage.

Although it's definitely a used car (paint chips on hood). The autostop, lean-burn, battery... all worked flawlessly. The 4000 redline was the only problem I noticed in the car.
 

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To all members:

This is a clear example of multi-posting and how one topic becomes split into different threads making following the subject more difficult. It also fragments the information making future members read almost impossible.

Troy please review the rules and help prevent this (and other rules problems) from happening in the future.

The initial thread which Troy has now "bounced" back to is here:

23 mpg - time to get a new car (an insight of course)?
http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/vie ... php?t=5357

I'm therefore locking this thread and redirecting-(asking, but by the lock requiring, sorry but that's the only way this works) replies to the original (primary) thread.

Sincerely,
 
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