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Mike, you're the best! I just corrected my connector with a 4" jumper wire and a few connectors and all is good now.

From a diagnostic standpoint, this entire thread is all over the place and this specific electrical issue is not the same as the "whirling motor sound." More specifics....

If you can unlock the car and hear the trunk latch servo Clank to unlock the trunk, then that latch unlock servo is OK. If you press the rubber switch to release and lift the rear hatch and nothing happened, then it is the electrical connector in the passenger door jamb (slide seat forward, tilt it forward, remove threshold kick plate and then pull lower seatbelt cover out and up to expose the wiring). But if you press the rubber switch to release and lift the rear hatch and it just whirls from the motor spinning, then most of this thread deals with that broken plastic part issue in the release motor.

Thanks again Mike.
 

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Well my trunk finally opens... a friend came over and crawled in back and pulled away the grey covering. As he was doing that a big phillips head bolt dropped down into the spare wheel well. It turned out to be one of the 3 bolts that hold the locking mechanism in place. After fiddling with the internal mechanism the hatch finally released. We got the bolt back in place and tightened up the other 2 which were also loose. How do bolts like that come loose? I guess I'll have to locktite them back in place.

After fiddling with the connector rod he was able to reengage the end of the rod in the piece of plastic that holds it in place and so the trunk works!!! I'll have to take it apart one day soon, inspect it and find a way to make sure that the rod stays in place.

I think that maybe my driveway, 1 mile of dirt road, had something to do with loosening the bolts and maybe made the rod jump out of its holder. But since I've moved back into Tucson I don't take that road anymore so hopefully it will keep on opening.
 

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Glad to hear it is working again, those 3 bolts you talked about have to be removed when you replace the hatch release motor. Maybe someone in the past replaced it and didn't get them back in tight, but I'm sure your driveway didn't help.
 

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My hatch motor had broken again recently and I've been using the key to open the hatch without an issue while waiting for time to fix it.

Today, however, I tried to use the key and it didn't work. The key assembly itself seems looser than it should, so not sure if that is the problem or not.

How difficult is it to disassemble it from the inside with the hatch shut? I replaced the motor once myself, but that was when I was able to open the hatch.

Any tips/suggestions welcome.
 

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Remove the rear carpet.
Remove the three plastic tabs from the rear trim carpet (the ones that are awkwardly in the way in the lower cargo area.
Pull the rear carpet up and you'll have access to the latch rods, which should both be connected. One of the rods clicks to lock or unlock and the other opens the trunk. Doesn't matter if the (commonly failing) clutch i broken... this'll open it up.
Its tight with the trunk open, so It'll be even more tight with you crammed in the rear, so be patient. Once you get it open, verify the nut that holds the key receptacle is tight and then buy my replacement trunk latch (search "whirring trunk latch").
 

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2001 5S "Turbo"
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My key fob only unlocks the driver's door, not the hatch.
Normally when you press it once it unlocks the driver's door. Press it twice and it also unlocks the passenger door and hatch.

Sam
 

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Mike, you're the best! I just corrected my connector with a 4" jumper wire and a few connectors and all is good now.

From a diagnostic standpoint, this entire thread is all over the place and this specific electrical issue is not the same as the "whirling motor sound." More specifics....

If you can unlock the car and hear the trunk latch servo Clank to unlock the trunk, then that latch unlock servo is OK. If you press the rubber switch to release and lift the rear hatch and nothing happened, then it is the electrical connector in the passenger door jamb (slide seat forward, tilt it forward, remove threshold kick plate and then pull lower seatbelt cover out and up to expose the wiring). But if you press the rubber switch to release and lift the rear hatch and it just whirls from the motor spinning, then most of this thread deals with that broken plastic part issue in the release motor.

Thanks again Mike.
I have to do the blue / yellow bypass as well. While I can unplug the connector from the top, I can't figure out how to release the socket from the connector holding it to the car so that I can get to the power side of the system.

Thanks
 

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Hatch jumper installed

Finally got around to putting in a jumper for the hatch circuit around the connector. Not easy tight workspace and hard to hang on to the splicing fitting but it worked. It'll be nice to open the hatch with one hand.
 

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There is a fix for it. I used a Dremel to grind a small notch on the outside of the brake band. Then a piece of small (.035") ss wire is wrapped around it and twisted. Put the twist where there is clearance when it is assembled. I did it last spring and it's still working. Wish there was a picture of it.

post #50
This worked for me. Make sure you plug the connector in & test it first! I didn't, & it needed a little more dremel work & grease between the cover & top gear
 

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Recently bought a 2005 Insight. I can open the hatch by turning the key all the way right and pulling up, but this is a pain considering I usually have my hands full when trying to open it. If I press the button, I get the whirring sound. Will prototypist's littlebluepart work for me?
 

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Cool, thanks. Most of the posts I saw here were talking about '00 or '01 models, wasn't sure if it's still good for an '05. I'll order one from shapeways pronto. Thank you, and Happy Holidays! :)
 
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