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I must be stupid or something. Everybody says it's easy to get the actuator out of the trunk, but I can't figure out how to disconnect the long metal rod. The only post I found that even mentions it says it's "obvious when you see it." How the hell do I fix this? It's starting to get dark and I can't close my trunk with the latch half-disassembled. :(

EDIT: I don't even know if I'm supposed to be detaching it from the actuator or from the other side where it connects to the latch/keyhole. I would think directly from the actuator but all the pictures show the rod sitting out of the trunk along with the actuator. Please help me...
 

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You disconnect it from the actuator. Its held on with a clip. I can't remember the name but it's the same type as used for the door handle rod. Look up door handle rod clip on google to see if you can find a picture of how the clips work.
 

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Thanks, I finally got it. Brain not work good when sickness, lol.

Got the actuator motor repaired with little trouble (although damn if it wasn't hard to get that tight little spring to compress enough), got it all back together, and tested. My hatch works now! The only casualty is I broke one of those little plastic thumbtack-like pins that holds the carpet down...anybody know where I can get a replacement? If not, no big deal.

Thank you to mudder for the part, insight for life for the help, and rabl, gilbertguy, and aisbell for the informative instructions with pictures. :)
 

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Another succesful Hatch latch repair

OK, I am blatantly plagiarizing from a number of posts to try and put it all in one place.... I'm sure there must be an instructions or how to area of the site and I just haven't found it, so here is my version of a how to fix your hatch latch actuator.

First, it is all in this thread, just scattered "hither and yon".

(Copied this section, just added the links)

To start with this post was pretty helpful, I've added links to the other posts it refers to:

specifically:
Post #45 (Page 5 of thread) (great pictures of disassembling the actuator and what you are removing to get to the broken piece)
http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/11569-trunk-not-opening-5.html

Post #87 (page 9 of thread) is a great summation of the procedure
http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/11569-trunk-not-opening-9.html

Post #116 (Page 12 of thread)- more good pictures of removing the electrical connector
http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/11569-trunk-not-opening-12.html#post229168

Post #137 (page 14 of thread)- more good info to work off of (I didnt remove the rubber pad, but others might find it helpful)
http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/11569-trunk-not-opening-9.html

All in all I think I spent 30 minutes on this at most. The part was a tight fit, but it did fit and no dremeling required. I did remove the 3 phillips head screws on the lock/latch mechanism which probably made removal easier. I would recommend somehow securing the long rod that goes over to the key after you remove it from the actuator so that it doesn't fall down between the panels of aluminum, it can be a major pain to retrieve it out of that crack (which I did, twice!)

Thanks again to mudder for the part and all the other helpful people on this forum!

Now for my own personal 2-cents worth/learning tips:

Tools:

1) 10mm socket+wrench
2) 8"-10" straight bladed screw driver
3) (2) normal sized straight bladed screw drivers
4) Larger Phillips screw driver
5) Pliers
6) 1/8" allen wrench, or drill bit, or stout paper clip


1) To remove the plastic cover over the latch in the center of the trunk.

The latch is held in place with four tangs the have expanding metal clips (two no either side of the latch). I took a large (8-10" long) straight bladed screwdriver, slid it in from the left end, and pried up... the first clip is about three inched in, the second one another couple of inches. Repeat this from the right end and pull it straight up.

2) As mentioned in a different post, the two round plastic carpet attachment pull with the smaller pin in the center are easily removed buy push the center pin "in" (I used a small 1/8" dia hex wrench, but the non pointy end of an 1/8" drill would be fine, even a stout paper clip). To reinstall them, you'll have to push the center pin back out past a detent, to do this you'll need to "spread" the two side past the detent.

3) Two more simple push plastic retainers hold the back carpet piece in, easiest way to pull them out is two medium straight bladed screwdrivers prying up from both sides.

4) Next unplug the connector from the latch and pull the connector loose as shown in post 116 pp 12
http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/11569-trunk-not-opening-12.html

5) Remove the three Phillips screws holding the latch in place

6) Remove the four bolts holding the actuator in place (10 mm socket)

7) Remove the two rods from the actuator, long rod first, short rod second. There is plastic clip on each rod, simply unclip it and rotate it to the side (these clips stay attached to the swing arm attached to he back of the bracket) and the rods will pull straight out. As mentioned above, a piece of tape toward the end of the long rod for future retrieval might be handy, I dropped mine twice, but was easily able to fish it out with a magnetic pickup tool.

At this point the actuator is free and will pull right out. You just leave the latch dangling to reattach later. Having the latch free allows for easy rod removal and re-installation. Gently peeling back the rectangular foam patch allow you to get your fingers in to move the latch around so you can get the three screws back in later, but this is not 100% necessary (if you are lucky).

With the actuator out,

Post #45 (Page 5 of thread) (great pictures of disassembling the actuator and what you are removing to get to the broken piece)
http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/11569-trunk-not-opening-5.html

just:

1) take out the screws in the actuator- long ones hold the actuator to the bracket, short one hold the cover to the housing.
2) pull the cover
3) remove the large gear
4) remove the small gear "hat"
5) remove the gear drive by the worm drive (you sort of have to unthread it)
5a) the broke part is under this gear.
6) Test fit the part in pocket before installing
6a) remove the spring from the broken part and put it in the new part

I had to slightly sand my new part thinner as mentioned in one post and I had to sand a little of the tang too. When you get it all together, plug the connector in and push the button. if the arm rotates, you have a winner, mine was stuck, hence to slight sanding.

7) install the new part with the spring down, toward the housing/away from the gear. You sort of have to thread it into the worm drive
8) I put the new parts together on the gear, and gently drop the assembly in. Make sure the new parts are pushed up against the gear. If it is in right, the gear does not feel like it has a spring under it, it feels firm.
9) drop on the hat gear
10) drop in the larger gear
11) The funny little plastic hat you see in the pictures goes at the rod pivot, make sure to put it back when re-screwing the actuator to the metal bracket.

As mentioned test the actuator before putting is in the car by connecting the electrical connector and push the hatch button:

When putting the whole thing back together it was easier for me to:
1) attach the short rod to the latch first
2) then the long rod that goes over to the key.
3) I then slid the whole mess in, put in the three screws in the latch
4) followed by the four bolts
5) locked the electrical connector to its holder
6) plugged in the connector
7) tested again by pushing the button AND actuating with the key
8) put the the foam patch back on.
9) the two push in retainers
10) the two retainers with the centers replaced
11) and finally, the plastic latch cover.

Then I showed it to my wife, who was very happy she no longer needed tow hands to open the rear hatch.
 

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Hatch Latch Fixed

Everything was smooth for me except for the short actuator rod. I saw on one post that it should be connected first and then be patient putting it in place. That was so true! I put the short rod on and turned the plastic clip to lock it in place. Then I reached up and moved the rod back and forth, and also toward the front of the car and then to the back. At some point a combination of those movements allowed it to slide up toward me and into place. The longer rod was not near as difficult. Success!!!

Thanks to Mudder for the plastic part! Worked great.

Barry
 

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Attention isjay

Great effort to take us straight to the meat of the subject. Unfortunately your thread to #137 is taking us somewhere else. But otherwise I thank you.
 

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I guess I was lucky. When I started chasing down my trunk actuator not working I wasn't getting any sound when pressing the button.

I found a post indicating to look inside the right pillar near the seatbelt.

I pulled the interior piece, upon first glance it didn't look like water had ever been in there.

I unplugged said connector and sure enough the pins were completely rotted out.

Bypassed the plug, hatch workey!
 

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Trunk stuck

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bzi7FpHL1YxgUWdEUFpFbXVGMm8&usp=sharing

My situation is a little different. I first came here a few years ago with the "hear whirling sound, but trunk doesn't open" problem, and partially disassembled car, got lost, quit, and simply lived with the problem.

However, now my rear brake light is out, and I *cannot* remove the tail-light to change lightbulb, unless I can get my trunk open.

After re-reading all posts (and newer posts), I tried again, and was able to disconnect the one metal rod (on passenger's side), and two metal rods (on driver's side) plus the electrical connector--this allowed me to release the "black box" with the components inside (which I left alone for now).

However, I *still cannot* get hatch open with my key (turning to right). I think the problem is a few years ago, I played with the hatch lock (the part with the 3 screws), as part of my attempted repair--before I was sometimes able to get the hatch open with the key, afterward, it was totally stuck.

While it would be nice to repair everything, my main goal is simply to be able to open the hatch with the key, so I can access the tail-light to change bulb. Might anyone have a similar experience, or any ideas? The three linked pictures can better show what I've done.
 

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DOH!

isjay's write up may save my bacon... I installed the new 3d printed part and still have the whirring noise... hatch won't open.

So in isjay's post the key words:
6a) remove the spring from the broken part and put it in the new part

me dumb... I will take it all apart and install the springs and cross my fingers. Do the springs face up to the gear, or down to the black housing?

7/28 Update: I removed the black box again, installed the old spring in the new 3D printed part (spring face down to black housing) success! works perfectly.
 

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The electrical connector in the passenger-side seat-belt B-pillar is the likely problem. It will make sounds but not unlock. The connector in the pillar controls the locking mechanism too and you need that to work.

I used my key to open the hatch and inspected everything back there, but it was not the issue. When you take the connector apart, you will likely see 1 or 2 corroded pins. Get a soldering iron and some shrink-wrap tubing and jump over the connector; splicing the wires together and it should come back to life.
 

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FYI
My silver insight had a similar problem. I could open the hatch with the key, but the electrical latch was totally dead. I traced it to the connector on the passenger side near the seat belt attachment point. The leaking seat belt issue due to the top door molding not being sealed wet the connector, and the brass pins had totally corroded.I replaced the connector and the hatch works normally.
I had the same problem- hatch release button stopped working. The hatch wiring harness connector pin that carries 12v from the fuse panel corroded and broke off. I eliminated the connector and soldered in a short extension to each wire and it works perfectly again.



 

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OK, I give up.
26 pages in this thread.
252 replies.

Somewhere in here, there must be a link to whoever sells the laser printed part for the trunk latch. At least, I hope so.

And the guy (or woman) who sells it hopefully provides a concisely written procedure on how to install it. That would be a key thing. Pun intended, I guess.

Please, someone, tell me where this is.
A search tool is nice but reading through 26 pages in this one thread alone makes we wish for a Dewey Decimal System and a card catalog with old fashioned wooden pull drawers instead. Sorry for being grumpy. My trunk latch whirs and needs repair.
 

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I had the same problem- hatch release button stopped working. The hatch wiring harness connector pin that carries 12v from the fuse panel corroded and broke off. I eliminated the connector and soldered in a short extension to each wire and it works perfectly again.



Thanks very much Gadget01 for the photos , they gave me the confidence to do the same repair to my Insight .

If I can do it anybody can! Mind you there's little room to work and it's cramped and uncomfortable . I think I would have been better taking the seat out.

Thanks again to Gadget01 and everyone on this forum who provide the invaluable knowledge and expertise.

Ian
 

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no expert but to add to the lore…

removed and replaced ‘tailgate actuator motor’ after original failed…guessing that it suffered usual internal broken part and will try to repair using ‘little blue part’

removing trim and trim panels is as described in prior messages…long panel over latch has four clips which are pried up…that process seems somewhat brutal but prying with long screw driver doesn’t harm the panel…then remove ‘carpet’ trim by prying out buttons…there are at least four of these…using old-fashioned door panel clip remover worked ok

then remove three screws from latch and four bolts from motor mount

optional: remove 'black rubber patch'

that leaves disconnecting two rods and wire mount…think easy way for rods is to lever away the ‘arm’ of attaching plastic and then pull rod out…if this isn’t recommended someone may please correct…then unplug power…it’s not as easy as it ought to be but Mr H probably didn’t want wires to become disconnected….

re-install motor…seems to be easiest to install rods first…short one then long one…then power plug…attaching rods may not be seem simple but persist and be patient…my tactic was to install plastic attaching part first…into provided holes …route rod through and then move ‘arm’ onto rod…short rod first…i will try to attach picture of connector

re-install trim in reverse order

close tailgate and voila! electric opener is now re-functional

and to all who’ve contributed here: thanks…not sure that op would have been considered without this thread

if picture has attached: 1) portion of clip which passes through motor arm 2) portion of clip through which rod end passes and 3) clip arm which is pressed on

any edits or corrections welcomed,

kawika
 

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I just did this job today, using the part supplied by mudder. I followed the notes from this post, earlier in this thread:
http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/11569-trunk-not-opening-25.html#post744385

I will add two items.

1)
When inserting the new replacement part into the housing, some "persuasion" was needed. There's a right and a wrong way to persuade it.

I succeeded by pressing in on the end of the new blue cam, so it would fit inside the chamber it drops into. DO NOT press DOWN on the blue cam. If you do, it will pop off the black stud it's on, which extends through the white gear wheel. Instead, press down on the black stud where it's visible on your side of the white gear wheel, while pressing inward on the end of the blue cam.

2)
When reattaching the black housing to the four-armed mount bracket, I forgot to make sure the pivoting metal tab with the hole went through the pin protruding from back of the bracket assembly. Duh. I had to reattach the housing properly.
 

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Got around to fitting the 3D printed part bought through this forum.
Took around 15 minutes to do. Mostly simple. The trickiest part was fitting the tight spring into the part. I found that fitting the part to the shaft first and inserting the spring afterward was the easiest; using a pair of long nosed pliers to squeeze the spring as it was inserted.

Tried it - no more continuous whirring. Just works as it's supposed to. :):cool:
 

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Decided today was the day to fix my non-whirring, non-functional hatch. The only way to open has been the key to the far right method. I found the corroded connector on the passenger side and to my surprise the connector had already been bypassed! I've owned the car since September of last year. I examined and wiggled the connector to no avail. Just as I was ready to quit for the day I tried the button one last time and it worked, leading me to believe mine is wiring and not plastic piece related. Bad news it stopped working again after putting the trim back on. I went so far as to redo the splice and crimp but I got nothing. Still dead and now I'm more confused.
 
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