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it's harder to diagnose once the connector has been bypassed.

My trick for switch diagnosis is to unplug the motor/actuator and put a light bulb with a heavy current draw in it's place, like a 55 watt headlight bulb.

If the switch can light the bulb brightly, the circuit and switch are good.
 

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or check for voltage before and after the bypass while someone operates the trunk release button, making sure it is unlocked first.
 

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The reason for using a bulb with a relatively high draw (55 watts) instead of a dvom is resistance.... using a volt meter will not tell you if the circuit/switch is capable of operating a motor... it will just tell you one tiny strand of copper has voltage.

It takes amps to move a motor, amperage flow can only be tested with a load.
 

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actually it will, if you operate the load and see the voltage drop. so no, that is not correct, just a different way of testing without creating an alternate device for the job. my main job for the last 15 years has been working on 80's sports cars that have notoriously bad wiring. a circuit will generally show 12v when unloaded but drop to nothing once you activate the load, keep going up the circuit until you see the voltage begin to maintain integrity.
 

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Can either of you (Lyger or BruceinLA) explain a better way of testing the circuit using only one person? I don't have a helper to hit the button while I check. I did use a multimeter on the bypassed wire, there was only the one wire bypassed while the rest of the connector was stock. I never got a 12v reading on any of the wires IIRC, though despite a high mechanical aptitude automotive wiring is my weakness. I can strip, crimp, solder, and check voltage but not much else without following instructions.
 

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you should have 12v on iirc the blue wire, in my case the female side electrical pin tensioner broke off so i crimped it so it would contact the male pin and used dielectric grease to seal it back up.

if you don't have 12v on any of those, start checking fuses.
 

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Lyger nailed it. I further inspected the crimp work of the previous owner's repair and saw a tremendous oversight: the wire's insulation and not the wire was crimped in the neck of the spade connector. Whomever did the initial bypass advanced the stripped wire too far and didn't bite any exposed wire. That left the remaining wire frayed and only touching the spade with a strand or two. Popped the fuse cover and sure enough, blown. Replaced (both fuse and spade) and she works like Japan intended...that is, as long as the plastic piece holds up. Thanks to all for your suggestions. Gotta love a free fix.
 

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For the record the failed trunk motor isn't always that plastic piece nor a corroded connection in the car.

In my case the motor would barely turn with 12v applied to it directly.

I dismantled the motor mechanism and removed the motor.

It by itself would barely move with 12v applied to it.

I took it apart. There's a rectangular "thermal breaker" type device inside it just like the Ford Super Duty door lock motors. I simply eliminated the breaker thing with a piece of tin foil wrapped around it and it works perfectly now.

This exact same mode of failure is common on the Super Dutys also.

IF this has been covered before in this thread then I apologize. I wasn't interested in reading all those pages to see if this had been discovered before or not.
 

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I know you've probably got this worked out by now, but I got a guy who 3D prints the latch part in Las Vegas. Had to look him up - other guy from here quit the biz, apparently. This guy, Zack, charges the same. If you're interested, PM.
 

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Opening trunk

I am a new owner of an old insight. trunk wont open. I read this thread a lot but never found out how 'to open trunk'. I have 2 insights so I could probably open the one that opens and figure it out but I thought maybe someone was still around that could tell me how to get it open so I could work on it. the motor hums so it is trying to work but the key doesn't open it and the key and latch together doesn't open it.
 

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I had the same problem. I had to crawl into the back, take the plastic housing off the rear lock mechanism (from the inside) to fix the problem. I've attached a parts drawing of the problem area. Look at #17 - it is a metal rod that is attached at each end to a clip. One of the ends had come undone from the clip so I had to reattach it. It didn't require any new parts, the rod had just simply slipped out of its keeper and all I did was push it back in.

It was years ago, so my memory of how I did it is vague, but it was a PIA because of the awkard position I was in. I think I was able to pull the latch so that the trunk would open, then I got out and proceeded to troubleshoot and solve the problem standing up outside with the trunk open.

I also replaced the plastic part that the others are referring to just in case...
 

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Ohpi

Thanx Rainsux but it really would not open with or without the key. I climbed inside, removed the felt cover and the rubber cover over the hole that exposed the key mechanism. I just pushed the little rod toward the latch and it opened. Problem solved. But I am still wondering why all of the advise to just turn the key hard and lift with my other hand would not work. Oh well, I got er done.
 

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That's because 99% of the time the broken plastic part IS the problem... very rarely is the disconnected rod the problem. I hope that you replaced the plastic part because that is going to be your next problem...:)
 

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Thanx Rainsux but it really would not open with or without the key. I climbed inside, removed the felt cover and the rubber cover over the hole that exposed the key mechanism. I just pushed the little rod toward the latch and it opened. Problem solved. But I am still wondering why all of the advise to just turn the key hard and lift with my other hand would not work. Oh well, I got er done.
Because if it is whirring the problem is the broken little plastic part. On the last one I fixed I had to do that extra hard final key twist to get it to unlatch. I had to hold it in that position and lift with my other hand. Some people don't get this right and unnecessarily do it the hard way.

I'm glad you got it open.

Sam
 

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trunk wont open

Thanks for that Rush. I think your the first guy that understood what I mean by 'I cant open my trunk'. lol. Sounds like you did what I did and got er open. I didn't check to see if one end had come unhooked though. I will and God bless all you insight folks.
 

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2005 Insight, Automatic, RED, lots and lots of miles.
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I'm late to the whirring noise game but BY GOD I READ ALL 14 PAGES! But my question is this: it doesn't look like Prototypist is still selling the part in his Etsy shop, but I do see that this shapeways.com organization is still kicking. My question: there seem to be 3 levels of plastic I can order, does it matter which one? The description seems mostly concerned with the looks and not the strength; cheapest and highest 3 are nylon and next-to-cheapest it just says "plastic". Which one?
 
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