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So it's understood then that the actuator is not repairable? That it does indeed need to be replaced?

Thanks...
No, not true. The little 3D printed part is still available. You can order it from member klr3cyl. Send him a "conversation" (under your avatar at top right).
 

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I got that 3D printed part, got it installed, but sadly the hatch still does not open...the motor whirs away, but nothing happens. I'm wondering what I could be missing? I assumed the 3D part only goes in 1 way, correct? I suppose it would have been possible to flip it over and install in the other way? Didn't seem like that would matter, but maybe it does? Thanks...
 

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Flipping it won’t matter.

On occasion the motor can go bad.

I did also answer some questions in the conversation you sent.

I use a 12v source on the bench to test fire the actuator after I’ve had it apart and the new cam installed. The 12v source I’ve started using is my battery from my cordless drill. You can reverse polarity and fire it both directions.

Be sure the little plastic bushing didn’t fall out of the bell crank in the back.

It is also possible to have the linkage get in a bind upon reassembley.

Scott
 

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Also, there have been a number of times I’ve had to take one in and out more than once to get it working. This is the reason for bench testing before putting it back in the car.
 

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Got it working. Thanks one and all.

I wanted to add one thing...(and maybe this has already been said in this or another thread)...but loosening the 3 screws around the female part of the latch, makes it much easier to get the assembly back up into position after attaching the larger metal rod.
 

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I don’t know if it’s ever been mentioned before either, however when I do the repair I drop the two parts together and don’t detach the big rod.

Scott
 
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