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TRUNK NOT OPENING !!!!!!!!!!!

147K views 294 replies 105 participants last post by  julieannlynn08 
#1 ·
I have a stubborn trunk hatch that WILL NOT OPEN. Has anyone else had this problem? When I squeeze the release button for the car, I hear a motor running BUT the hatch does nothing. I've tried wriggling it, opening and locking the door switch, tried the key, everything.........but it still does not open.

My Honda dealership tells me that they have NOT had this problem occur with the Honda Insights they've received. My car is a standard, 2000..

Thanks for any advice or help....
 
#2 ·
How long have you had the car? I don't mean to be patronizing, but you do realize there is a little handle underneath the hatch that you have to kinda squeeze up in order to open the hatch, right? Even though the motor unlocks the hatch, you still have to unlatch the hatch using the handle located in the middle of the car, where the hatch meets the bumper.

I only say this because it took me a few minutes to figure that out on my own... If this isn't your problem, then don't mind me. Again, I'm not trying to be rude. :)
 
#4 ·
Sounds like your electronic latch is bad. Put the key (only one of the black keys, the grey vallet key won't work) in the lock on the bottom of the right side tail light and turn all the way to the right to manually release it. Then you should be able to lift the hatch up.
 
#198 ·
Hatch release



I have the same problem with my 2000 Citrus, 157,000 miles. I had a key made at Walmart for 2 bucks and use it to turn clockwise hard to release the hatch. Still need to replace the hatch struts, using a PVC pipe to hold it up for now,,,,not an acceptable solution with the spouse.
 
#7 ·
I had a hatch that would not release, similar to the situation described. I was already taking the car in for some other service, so I asked them to look at it. They told me it was a wiring problem that was not covered by the warranty and that it would be $290. I wasn't feeling particularly broke at the time, so I just let them have their demon money and got my hatch working again.

The description of the problem on the invoice was "Connector at rear hatch corroded and has broken pins"
 
#9 ·
Hatch release and Hatch supports

I have 2000 Honda Insight M/T and have the same problem with the hatch. Electronic key fob won't open the hatch and need to open manually with the key.

Does anyone know how to fix it (DIY) instead of paying $290 to a dealer? That's hefty for something so small.

Also my hatch supports (little shock absorbers that hold up the hatch) are going bad. Doesn't hold up the hatch anymore. Does anybody know where you can buy a cheap set of these supports? I checked Pep Boys and they don't seem to carry these.
 
#10 ·
I can't solve your problem completely but at least I know where you can get the part, I'm in the middle of trying to fix the exact same problem (which at least some 7 or 8 people on this site have posted):
The part can be ordered here:
Honda Automotive Parts
My problem now is that I've removed all covering parts to access the broken actuator but I can't see yet how I would hook up the new one both to the actual lock as well as the mechanism you use with the key to open mechanically (the motor part comes with a approx. 1ft metal rod which needs to connect to the key lock in the right rear light). Before I break that and rob myself of all options to open the trunk I'd rather understand how to take off the old and put in the new part - despite finding some 5 or 6 threads devoted to the subject here none of them truly describe this. I may have to take the half repair to my dealer and declare defeat unless someone has a real step by step kind of description.
 
#11 ·
OK, I just did it and finished the job in about 2 hours, someone who knows how it works might find that laughable but I had to find out myself: you need a 10mm and a 12 mm wrench, the part mentioned above (actuator assembly) and some patience for 3-D puzzles. I found a hand mirror and a flash light quite useful as well to get oriented.

Open the hatch and remove the liner over the rear end of the trunk (above the license plate), starting from the left (the right part can stay). To do that you need to remove a plastic piece which holds the liner in place, it is attached with 4 clips. On the right side I had a clip which is held in place with a 12mm screw, that needed to be removed as well. After you remove most of the liner you should be able to identify the actuator which is attached with 4 10mm screws. Unscrew those and you should be able to maneuver the part a little but it is still attached in 2 places with metal rods. This is were the 3-D puzzle starts.
If you move the actuator out of it's place and expose the longer metal rod (comes from the key hole in the right light) you can easlily detach it by losening the small plastic clip securing the rod (obvious when you look at it). Now you can move the actuator further out of it's place and expose the second rod, detaching it in the same way and you have the old actuator out.
The new actuator goes in in the reverse sequence. The only problem I had was that it doesn't seem to move into place easily, the shorter rod did not allow it to move up until I realized that you can't push it in hard, it needs to move close to the front - difficult to do because the actuator seems to be too big, be patient. The rest should be easy.
Good luck!
 
#13 ·
I actually did take some pictures but didn't have the time right away to post them. I just tried to do that but the size restrictions rendered them basically useless, so I posted them on Picasa:
Picasa Web Albums - Rainer - Insight hatch...
Let me know if you have trouble seeing these pictures, there are 5 photos. I can send them to you if needed. Like I said, it worked well for me and the hatch works normally now, I hope this will last.
Good luck!
 
#14 ·
One more thing of course, I totally forgot the electrical part (but that goes without saying): there's a connector which you need to take off and later connect the new one, this should be obvious when you look at it. If you have any trouble with the connection please let me know.
 
#17 ·
Yes, no magic - we're talking about the push button in the middle of the trunk lid. The button leads to the trunk lid release by activating a motor below the locking mechanism. There are numerous Insight owners who have described that button one day not working anymore but just leading to a grinding/humming noise without opening the lid. When that happens it's time to replace the part described in this thread.
 
#18 ·
FYI
My silver insight had a similar problem. I could open the hatch with the key, but the electrical latch was totally dead. I traced it to the connector on the passenger side near the seat belt attachment point. The leaking seat belt issue due to the top door molding not being sealed wet the connector, and the brass pins had totally corroded.I replaced the connector and the hatch works normally.
 
#52 ·
Another bad trunk actuator connection...



Many thanks to Mike for steering some of us away from the actuator and to the wiring. I think the lesson is, check for power and if you don't hear the "whirring" sound than the wiring may be your issue. I found the exact same thing as Mike and nayrhyno, inside the connector the tab for the trunk actuator was corroded and broken off:

Electrical wiring Technology Machine Wire Electronics


I pulled the blue w/yellow stripe wire out of the connector and bypassed it with some simple crimp-style wire connectors (and a small splice):

Electrical wiring Wire Electrical supply Technology Cable


Now it works like a champ. I was all set to order the acuator until I read this post, so Mike and nayrhyno--know that there will be a little extra in a Salvation Army bucket or two this holiday season thanks to you!

Votsky
 
#19 ·
Mike, can you describe the connector you found? I have a trunk latch problem now after just fixing a leaking a-pillar. My trunk actuator makes no noise at all when i press the button, so maybe it is just a connection issue.
 
#21 ·
I definately have a problem with that connector. One wire is seperated from teh top side, and one of the pins is corroded through. I can find the part number of it though. I may just relace it with a molex conector from a PC or something.
 
#23 ·
I did the repair with a molex connector, because it was the best thing I had laying around. I would have had to solder in an extension anyway, so it was easy enough to use the connector. I just re-did the wire that was corroded through, leaving the other three leads for future repairs if necessary. Its funny that just that wire was corroded so much, both ends were lose and the pin was broken off. Maybe it is the only one in that bundle with voltage always across it? At least now we know that blue with yellow stripe in the blue harness near the passenger seat belt re-tractor is the power to the trunk actuator :D.

I attached some shots to show the repair. I was generous with my taping to try and keeep water out in the future.
 

Attachments

#24 ·
My connector had only one pin that was corroded right through as well, so It may have to do with the voltage. That rear hatch power lead is always on, waiting for us to press the latch release, and a little water sitting in that cavity, and we have a nice electrolysis cell.

A good way to really seal a tape job is to coat the tape with PVC pipe cement. This seals and holds the tape together, but still allows it to be removed if necessary.
MIMA Honda Insight Modified Integrated Motor Assist - Black tape and PVC cement
 
#25 ·
That would work well. I just opted for two layers of wrapped tape. Haha. Thanks for the input on that harness. I would have replaced my actuator and then been very frustrated when it still didn't work! Its easy to forget the simple things some times.
 
#26 ·
trunk not opening dangerous?

My 2000 Insight just developed this problem with the trunk not opening (and yes with humming noise) this week.

1. Is this dangerous if I don't have it looked into right away?

2. I am also wondering if is corrosion could be linked to any of these factors
-car garaged for years but now sits out in 100 degree sun all day due to job change
-just had work done in the hatch area getting new tires last week
-car was flooded in September

3. Would you recommend a mechanic specializing in electrical systems over a Honda dealer?
 
#27 ·
Flooded is a relative term. Exactly what was wet, how wet and for how long?

If the car was flooded and water sat in side for any length of time, what is really needed is to pull each connector in the car and check them for corrosion, and be prepared to replace any that are corroded.
Buying a new harness from honda is also a possibility.
After I replaced my bad connector no other issues due to corrosion have cropped up.
 
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