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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So once upon a time, there was a broken little blue plastic piece. Then he was replaced with a rapid prototyped one. The End.

In a galaxy not far far away, there was a corroded connector at the passenger B pillar. He was a sad little connector that had corroded from moisture and was replaced by 2 3pin molex connectors keyed differently so they won't get mixed up. The End.

It was a dark and shady afternoon, when all of a sudden, continuity was checked and the button on the trunk was tested as functional. The End.


TL;DR:
Replaced little blue plastic piece. (inside actuator assembly)
Replaced corroded blue connector on passenger B pillar. (same as mike's description and location)
Trunk button seems to be intact (as in the button itself functions and would close the circuit)

Anyways, I was wondering what other possibilities there can be that prevent the trunk from opening without use of the key. I think I read somewhere that there is a relay that controls the trunk? but I can't seem to find that thread. Maybe a fuse?

I can still one hand open the trunk with the key alone, but it is easier with 2 hands.
 

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Search the schematic for "Hatch Opener" It's page 134. If fuse 23 is burned out, hatch won't open without key. From fuse 23, the +12 V line travels through at least seven connectors en route through the button you press on the latch and through the relay coil before returning to ground... a single failing connector would prevent the relay from activating the hatch opener, which is where you installed the 3D printed part.

The hatch opener relay you're looking for is in a nonintuitive location: it's hiding behind the left rear quarter panel fabric... open the hatch, remove the left rear quarter panel, then you'll find a single relay bolted just in front of the left rear brake lights... what an odd spot, right? If you know where the OEM CD changer is, it's just above it and closer to the left side of the car. Anywho, if that relay is unplugged/missing/broken, the trunk latch motor will never activate.
 

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To test if the relay is broken, disconnect the relay, then short pins 1 and 3 (i.e. short BLU/YEL lead to WHT/RED. You should hear the familiar "hatch open" whirring noise, and then it should immediately stop, as the 3D printed part you installed partially stalls the motor out once the latch is fully released.

If there's no magical noise, verify that pin 2 (BLU/BLK) is +12V when the hatch button is pressed. If not, one of the connectors or fuse 23 is bad.

Also verify that pin 4 (ORG) is a direct short to ground when the hatch key is unlocked. If not, the hatch key switch is probably broken. To verify, short BLU/RED & BLU/WHT leads on the hatch key switch and then see if the whirring noise occurs.

...what a complicated system for such a simple task.
 

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Help

Pulled the relay, tested the actuator by shorting the 2 pins, works that way, bought a new relay but no luck, tested old relay with a 9v battery, you can hear it click, tested pin 2 with volt meter and it shows voltage when the button is pushed, now I'm guessing weak power from button, so how do I get the button off the hatch? Also how can I access the hatch key switch?
 

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More than likely the problem is in the electrical plug to the entire hatch. The plug
Is on the passenger side of the vehicle near the seatbelt mechanism under the trim panel, in the "B" pillar. The plug is light blue in color and it is common for there to be corrosion in the plug and possibly the electrical terminal pin or pins to be completely deteriorated.

HTH,
Scott
 

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Man Scott you're a genius, that was it. Was testing connections with my meter, then tested at the b pillar connection, seemed like i could measure about 7 mv sometimes, but looking i couldn't see the bad connection, finally i was just moving the wires around below that b pillar connection and the blue yellow wire just popped out from the bottom, totally corroded. So i stripped the end off, soldered another piece of wire to that one, put some heat shrink tube on it, and pushed it into the top of the connector, seems to work, see pics. Thanks!












Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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To test if the relay is broken, disconnect the relay, then short pins 1 and 3 (i.e. short BLU/YEL lead to WHT/RED. You should hear the familiar "hatch open" whirring noise, and then it should immediately stop, as the 3D printed part you installed partially stalls the motor out once the latch is fully released.

If there's no magical noise, verify that pin 2 (BLU/BLK) is +12V when the hatch button is pressed. If not, one of the connectors or fuse 23 is bad.

Also verify that pin 4 (ORG) is a direct short to ground when the hatch key is unlocked. If not, the hatch key switch is probably broken. To verify, short BLU/RED & BLU/WHT leads on the hatch key switch and then see if the whirring noise occurs.

...what a complicated system for such a simple task.
Mudder i'm having a similar issue with my trunk latch. I bought a 2000 5 spd and the trunk latch wouldn't open without the key. Ordered the 3d printed part and replaced it. When I push the latch button on tailgate nothing happens. I believe i've checked all the connecters for power on the BLU/YEL wire and i'm getting 12v. Fuse 23 is good as well.

I have another insight so i swapped out the relay and the trunk latch button and they both work on the other car so I know they are not bad. I shorted the relay pins 1 and 3 and it makes the whirring noise. I also tested pin 2 and its 12v when I press the hatch button.

What i can't seem to figure out is the how to verify the pin 4 is a direct short to ground. I can't seem to find the plug that has BLU/RED @ BLUE/WHITE leads on it. What I think is the hatch key switch where you put the key it and turn to lock and unlock only has 3 wires coming off of it. (BLU/WHT, RED/WHT, and RED/BLK).

The key switch locks and unlocks the doors when I turn it so i'm assuming it's working though.

I've also looked at the plug on the passenger side pillar by the seatbelts and there was some corrosion but not alot. I sprayed it with corrosionx spray and it looks fine. Just to make sure i got a wire and stuck it in both ends of the plug and I was getting 12v on both ends.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. I don't know what else I could possibly check.
 
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