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I did valve adjustment at 250k or so. All were within spec. lol. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I did valve adjustment at 250k or so. All were within spec. lol. :D
I'm jealous! 90% of my K24's weren't but given the condition of the water pump (below) it's a safe assumption that regular maintenance was not a priority for the previous owner.

Mak

 

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Discussion Starter #63
I did valve adjustment at 250k or so. All were within spec. lol. :D
Here to report my 115k mile daily had most valves in spec, only a few were more than .001 off. The previous owner had 105k as the last service for them but I wanted to be sure after my K24 experience.

Back to the project, next on the list:

1. Throttle body swap (drive by wire to cable using adapter). Realize I have to remove the crusty studs.
2. Rear main seal replacement then bolt on 9.5# K20 flywheel/clutch combo.
3. Replace stock RAA 25° VTC intake cam gear with RBC 50° from Civic Si.
4. Attach intake manifold, bolt on DC header, attach trans and begin the engine bay strip.

Mak
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Is it normal to have to redo valve clearances when removing and reinstalling the same factory cam?

Doing final prep on the K24 before I move on to the strip donor phase so I installed a 50 degree VTC gear vs. the stock 25 degree one. The process went relatively smoothly except the insanely tight cam bolt holding the stock gear on and I nicked a cam journal in the process. Lots of 1000 grit sandpaper later you can't even tell. My question is after buttoning up the cam, caps, etc I check valve clearance (that I had just done prior) and it's .001 off on the one cyl I checked so far (No. 1). I'll have to go back and check every valve because I didn't come this far to half a$$ but the set backs are becoming tedious.

Mak
 

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Is it normal to have to redo valve clearances when removing and reinstalling the same factory cam?

Doing final prep on the K24 before I move on to the strip donor phase so I installed a 50 degree VTC gear vs. the stock 25 degree one. The process went relatively smoothly except the insanely tight cam bolt holding the stock gear on and I nicked a cam journal in the process. Lots of 1000 grit sandpaper later you can't even tell. My question is after buttoning up the cam, caps, etc I check valve clearance (that I had just done prior) and it's .001 off on the one cyl I checked so far (No. 1). I'll have to go back and check every valve because I didn't come this far to half a$$ but the set backs are becoming tedious.

Mak
.001 isn't too far off.

Just so you know, a 50 degree cam is dangerous for these motors. The 2004-2005 has less lift but also doesn't have the same valve reliefs in the piston heads that the 2006-2008 has. It's highly recommended to mechanically limit the VTC to 45 degrees max. Mine is limited to 40 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
I am aware of the danger and through subsequent research years ago could not find one documented instance of a failure related to 50° VTC on a K24 with stock cams, including road race cars. This car will be a daily that will not spend significant time above 6k RPMs. Even so, I plan to limit the range to 40° in Ktuner. To my knowledge the VTC does routine checks/cleans with a full sweep to 50° only during part throttle/low cam operation.

Mak
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
Seconds before I was planning to reinstall the valve cover for hopefully the last time I noticed the exhaust cam's chain sticks out ever so slightly vs the intake side. This, naturally, bothers me to no end. I followed the VTC swap guide principals to a T and torqued the cam caps with a torque wrench and in sequence. The cam chain guide B doesn't appear to be binding but is this offset normal? A quick look at the bearings and other cam ends being seated the same say yes but I would rather ask the group for a consensus as I was strictly a single cam D series guy before this.

Mak





Update: There never was a confirmation or denial as the orientation of my guide plate so it was removed and reinstalled to coincide with the established wear marks present on the underside. Valve cover is on and compression check ran again for insurance. No issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #69 (Edited)
Another day, another setback. What was once a seized dowel in the trans case and now it resembles an angry sea monster coated in PB blaster and hatred.



Update on previous posts:

Post #55: Apparently I will need that wire added to my harness to run AC. Alas, the purpose of originally farming out the wiring was so I wouldn't have to deal with these types of issues...

Post #56: After referencing a litany of schematics and conversion posts using other clusters (mainly AP1/S2000) I now have a rough draft for my Del Sol cluster swap. It'll be awhile until it is needed.

Post #68:
There never was a confirmation or denial as the orientation of my guide plate so it was removed and reinstalled to coincide with the established wear marks present on the underside. Valve cover is on and compression check ran again for insurance. No issues.

Mak
 

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Discussion Starter #70
By the time invested in this project, by the state of disarray that is my garage, I now pronounce thee engine and tranny. Only took a year and 9 months since this project began. Next up, officiating the divorce of the stock engine from the donor chassis. I wish them the best.



 

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Discussion Starter #71
FYI: many know (or will find out) that the factory fuel tank does not have a drain plug. Solution? Unbolt the factory banjo bolt from the fuel rail and put that end in a fuel container. Then jump the relay (shown below) to the positive battery post. This will power the pump, slowly draining the tank. Emphasis on slowly.

 

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Discussion Starter #72
Finishing up the harness before it all gets plugged back onto the engine, hardly plug and play. So far:

'05-06 RSX Type S (advertised as '02-04 but I digress).
  • Was completely missing VSS plug, grafted one (details in a previous post).
  • Crank sensor plug needed a couple wires switched around, possibly swapped with a different plug as well IIRC.
  • Knock sensor plug replaced with one from a K24.
  • Starter wire replaced with one from a K24.
  • EVAP (green) plug extended almost a foot to reach the K24 purge valve (K20s have it on the throttle body).
  • A couple plugs had broken plastic, replaced with junkyard pieces.
  • Coolant temp sensor plug too short, extended 4".
Mak
 

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Discussion Starter #74
here for the slow updates.
You came to the right place lol. Engine is physically in the bay with Hasport mounts, harness on, shifter hooked up but not secured. Simultaneously working on remedies for fuel lines, coolant hoses + adapters, heater hoses, EVAP, AC hardline rerouting, custom serpentine belt measuring, ABS mount adjustment, battery relocation to the rear, attempted to boot Ktuner but laptop was too old, axle measuring and header fitment. It's going to be a long fall.

Mak
 
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