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Discussion Starter #1
I am a new 2002; Red; 76K CVT Insight owner. The car is a pleasure to drive but I think the car needs some care and I have some newbie questions.

I have noticed a hose (diameter 1.5") near the back of the right side of the radiator that extends from the bottom of the car. The hose is not attached and sits open-ended near the top of the radiator. Any comments? Is this normal?

Also, I have noticed that the car does creak a lot from the front; especially as I turn corners. The glove box also rattles over bumps. Any ideas?

Thanks. I have been reading the site and it is full of helpful information.

Edmond[/b]
 

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Welcome Edmond.

Re the Pipe.

It may be the air intake resonator box pipe disconnected. Feel under the right hand side of the air intake pipe near the coolant expansion bottle. There should be a hole for the pipe to attach too.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/aut ... OR+CHAMBER

See the above diagram and does your pipe look like part 8?

It attaches to the inlet under part 7.

Re The Squeaking Suspension.

http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/vie ... sion+noise

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/aut ... +LOWER+ARM

Possibly above problem which affected both my cars and cured with some silicone lubricant spray.

RE Rattling Glove box

I had the two corner stop rubbers missing on my car glove box. Just cut something out of a small piece of rubber (Or use a small round pencil rubber) and use it to take up the slack in the door/facia fit when closed.

Hope this helps.

Remember to search the forums first as most things have been discussed here many times.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the prompt reply. I followed your expert diagnosis and reattached the hose using the attached pictures; this site is such a wonderful resource!

I will work on the glove box this weekend and speak with the Honda dealer about the rubber control arm mount inserts. I have also noticed that the allignment seems to be very poor; perhaps the control arm issue may be partly to blame.

Regards. Edmond
 

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What do you mean by poor alignment? The Insight is designed to have zero toe, which tends to allow it to wander compared to regular cars...
 

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Further info.

As Dougie says the Insight alignment is 0 degree toe in/out. They do wander about and follow lines on road etc, especially if fitted with original tyres and pumped up hard. (However you do get max mpg running original tyres pumped upto 50psi)

Re the noise.

Assuming we have correctly diagnosed the noise in the first place, bolt no 18 passes through the offending bush in the diagram posted. To sort this I jacked up each front wheel in turn, supported the car with proper stands etc, removed bolts 18, 19, 20 and the part 11/12. You can then lever the arm down slightly to get to both sides of the rubber bush, spray it and the central bolt hole with lots of silicone spray and reassemble. 15 minute job. Spray the other bush on the arm at the same time through which bolt 17 passes. If on inspection the bush is obviously damaged then you should replace it. They do dry out which seems to cause the noise described.

Hopefully should be sorted.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the allignment information. Being a new Insight owner - I am getting used to its unique handling and response characteristics. I have already replaced four new tyres per Honda specs and will now tackle the rubber mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, the tip with the eraser head did the trick for the glove compartment! I will be checking with the dealer about the mounts this week. :)
 

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Be Wary

Careful with the dealer ;)

They may well tell you the bushes are bad and need replacing (Which they may be :cry: ), it's an expensive repair if they really have gone, as they come with the arms I understand. I don't think anyone on here has actually had these bushes/arms replaced?

Get a second opinion if they say they need replacing.

The lubrication trick works if they are sound but just dried out.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter #10
[mod edit: Removced all bold emphasis, similar to posting in all caps. Please don't]

Thanks for the tips regarding the creaks. I took the car to the Honda dealer and they did find issues with the struts, rubber mounts, and springs. Luckily, the person who sold me the CVT a few months ago is very honest and has agreed to cover half the costs as well as an extended warranty. He loved his Insight & still wants it at 100%. :) :)
 

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Issues?

Issues?

What issues exactly?

What was changed/replaced?

What did they say exactly was/were the problems?

Thanks

Peter

This extra info helps us to help you and others. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Greetings Peter,

Using your helpful comments as well as Dougie's, I spoke with the Honda Dealer in Alhambra, California.

They kept the car for three days and found the following reasons for the creaking of the car:

1. Internal failure of both front damper assembly.
2. Internal failure of both front springs.
3. Pinch welds creaking in rear of car.

The prior owner purchased an extended warranty from Honda Care for the car as part of the original sale and transferred to me so the repairs were covered except a minimal co-pay which we split.

The Honda dealer replaced the left and right strut & damper assemblies including new springs in the front. In the rear, the dealer center punched the pinch welds to secure them. Parts: 675814, 675815 They also checked the adjusted the rear brakes.

The final outcome has been very good. The arthritic creaks and moans over speed bumps and uneven roads is now gone. The internal rattles in the car has also now improved. :)
 

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Edmond said:

They kept the car for three days and found the following reasons for the creaking of the car:

1. Internal failure of both front damper assembly.
2. Internal failure of both front springs.
3. Pinch welds creaking in rear of car.

The Honda dealer replaced the left and right strut & damper assemblies including new springs in the front. In the rear, the dealer center punched the pinch welds to secure them. Parts: 675814, 675815 They also checked the adjusted the rear brakes.

Edmond

I am glad your car is better and it was covered by a warranty. :) The phrases used by your dealer do concern me though.

"Internal failure of both front springs"? Did they mean they were both broken? Springs don't fail internally to my knowledge. For both springs to be broken would be very rare/odd as well, and would have manifested itself in some fairly horrible noise/banging probably.

"Internal failure of both front dampers"? Again a bit strange but possible if unlikely!

"Pinch welds creaking in rear of car"? Where/what exactly are these? I could not find those part numbers quoted listed anywhere. Can anyone else help with this?

Your dealer may have been super effcient and honest but :?

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Peter,

I located the invoice. Here is the verbiage regarding the parts:

414101 Damper Assembly, Both Front - Replace Includes Spring Both Replace. 5024 WHC

1 675814 S/ABS ASSY-, R- FR-
1 675815 S/ABS ASSY-, L- FR-
FC:011001


Regarding the pinch welds, it states:

Pinch welds creaking S11 Brakes 5024 IPS
77844 Pinch Welds Center Punched, Pinch welds.


I am not sure about Honda's terminology but I can attest that the outcome of the work has been very favorable. They also follow up several days later when they called to check on their work. Edmond
 

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Indeed spot / pinch welds can creak :!: :shock: ;)

The area around such a weld can deform such that with _normal_ body flexing the two surfaces minutely "rub" together causing an audible noise.

And dimpling the vicinity with a center punch is a correct countermeasure. If the two panels have a nearby access hole such that the seam between the sheets can be accessed, some silicone lubricant can also be a long term "fix".

HTH! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the reply regarding the pinch welds. The Honda mechanics really enjoyed fixing this problem because they had to caucus and devise a plan.

Also, I forgot to mention about my rattling glove box. The dealer was impressed with the eraser-head modification per Peter. They also suggested the following:

Open glove box and continue to pull the external open latch pull while open to retract the inner tab. Reach behind inner tab and gently pull out the rubber bumper stop.

Over the years, the rubber ridges gets deformed (pushed in) and does not cushion as well. They said the rubber could be replaced or can be revived by pushing lengthwise on the bumper stop and it will expand since it is hollow. While the bumper is expanded, stuff the hollow with some flexible rubber, cut to fit and replace bumper behind inner tab.

I used some 3M double stick tape foam as stuffing but will use rubber if it rattles again. Edmond
 
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