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Discussion Starter #1
Ever the newby. I am trying to learn the ins and outs of proper IMA battery care and feeding. At present I have only a charger (Maxx Volts) I have a car that’s been sitting a few weeks. I have no discharge equipment yet. Will I help or hurt the battery by only charging it at this point. I have read all the hybrid automotive info as well as much of the threads here. Lots of info but I hate to admit not complete clarity on my part yet. I lack the electrical engineering background many of you have. I want to do the right thing. Should I just let the car sit till I can do the whole charge discharge thing three times over like hybrid automotive suggests?
 

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just charge it up, any overcharging will be converted into a little bit of heat. I wouldn't do a complete discharge unless you're experiencing a lot of battery issues.
 

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just charge it up, any overcharging will be converted into a little bit of heat. I wouldn't do a complete discharge unless you're experiencing a lot of battery issues.
Good advice here. Charging and balancing alleviates issues for most folks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Hot spots and contact points

Thanks for the just charge it advice. I have only driven the car about 1200 miles since I bought it. It has only lost and quickly regained two or three bars of charge while driving during that time. No codes.The car came with a charger harness installed but no charger. So I don’t know if the previous owner had recently charged the car just before I bought it to clear up issues or just for prudent maintainance. I will attempt to install the Maxx Volt harness this weeekend. None of the u tubes I have watched have clearly shown the contact points or wire colors . They are all shot from a stationary camera stuck to the hatch. I don’t see any insulating gloves on the hands of the guys doing the hookups. I don’t mean to be a wimp here. I’m good at wiring. I don’t mind a 120v AC shock on occasion. But I know DC is a different animal, and I have no experience with a large hi powered DC battery. Does the on off IMA battery switch kill power to all exposed metal contact surfaces in the areas where my hands will be working to install this harness? If one or more contact points remain hot, what and where are they. Is there a clear example of video, photography, or drawn diagram with good resolution I can go to to clarify my mental map of The IMA battery and the connections I have to make. Believe me I’ve looked for one and I haven’t seen it yet.
 

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There are plenty of instructions around for installing grid charger harnesses. If there is already a harness installed you can replace that one with the one you want to use.

The battery is safe as long as the main switch is turned off.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks to you all. Sorry for being such a winge. I also saw someplace one of you mentioned waiting a few minutes for any remaining charge to drain from exposed circuitry. I’ll give it a go.
 

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Great! I'm glad you went ahead and did it.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No bars

I took the charger off. Final reading was 177 volts.
Let the battery rest for about 2 1/2 hours. Disconnected the negative side of the
12 volt battery for 60 seconds. Started the car. The charge bars on the left side of the battery display showed 4 bars. The total charge display at the far right is blank. No codes. ????
 

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I took the charger off. Final reading was 177 volts.
Let the battery rest for about 2 1/2 hours. Disconnected the negative side of the
12 volt battery for 60 seconds. Started the car. The charge bars on the left side of the battery display showed 4 bars. The total charge display at the far right is blank. No codes. ????
That sounds normal. After you do the reset, then you have to drive it around a bit, or let it idle for a while to get a recalibration of the battery SOC gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Jime. Thanks. I just jacked the car up to do Eq1,s rear engine mount r&r. I’ll drive it when that’s done.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A snap,- hell no

So I thought yeah it’ll be a bit of work, but an afternoon and I should have the rear engine mount off no problem. It took 18- 20 inches of cheater And a bunch of hammering and triflow to just crack the 12 mm exhaust bolts. I finally gave up for the evening to let the triflow soak into the bolt that goes thru the rear engine mount. I couldn’t budge it even with my hammer and cheater. Are they really torked that tight or just locked up with 14 yrs of corrosion crud? Any tips, tricks, insights, would be much appreciated for tomorrow’s efforts. To be honest I’m working under the car blocked about 14 inches off the wet pavement here in Portland, no compressed air, no impact wrench, just gristle, muscle and leverage, and a 73 year old body. Welcome to my world.
 

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^ Sounds like it's corroded/galled stuck - the mount spacer and contact points are aluminum while the bolt and nut aren't. Letting it soak should help, though I don't know whether TriFlow would be the correct penetrating lubricant... Might be. I'd be using PBBlaster or LiquidWrench or something like that. I'm thinking TriFlow is more lubricant, less penetrating solvent, but I could be wrong... If soaking doesn't work you might try a propane torch...
 

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I never touch the exhaust bolts to do the rear mount, you take a big chance of breaking off the exhaust bolts and creating another problem.

First try to break the through bolt loose between the two mount pieces, 17mm head on the side closest to the exhaust pipe.

Next try to break the two 17mm headed bolts that go straight up loose. You will probably need a deep socket and if you have it a 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar.

The engine mount bracket the bolt to the back of the transmission has four 14mm headed bolts. I use a box end ratchet wrench. I break them all loose first.

Now, everything is broken loose. Take out the two bolts going straight up into the floor. Next take the through bolt out as much as possible. Lastly the 14mm bolt, take out 3 of them- the 2 bottom ones and the upper inboard one and just loosen the last one to rotate the bracket so the though bolt comes out and the mount comes off.

To install slide in the new mount with the bracket rotated and put it all back together.

HTH,
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
eq1, KLR3CYL. Thanks, good advice. A good nite’s sleep, a couple cups of coffee, and i’ll Hit it again in the AM. And I consider my self very lucky I didn’t break off an exhaust bolt getting them out.
Is there an anti seize anti corrosion compound for threads and mating surfaces of aluminum and steel
That I could use for reassembly? Whould I also use the same on the exhaust bolts?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Progress

Just crawled out to take a break for coffee and give my shoulders a break. I had to put a hydraulic jack under the end of the box wrench and hammer on the shaft of the wrench to loosen it and turn it the first 1/8 turn. This is just the bolt through the center of the mount. What’s the york spec on that bolt?.
OK back to it.
 

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I think the nut on that center bolt has a retention/anti spin tang. I just pulled off a rear mount in the junk yard today. Used a doubled up wrench to loosen the nut and only after I had it loose did I notice that tang... oops!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Done

It’s done. Not sure which thread I should finish up on. This one or Granny Gear.any thoughts? I’ll take it for a spin later n see how it feels.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Eq1’s rear engine mount

I just drove the car and it feels great with eq1’s bumper stock rehab of my rear engine mount. Refer to thread. Granny gear for details and continuity with eq1’s
Method.
 
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