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Thanks, hmm.

I have been using a gray one also. The only thing is mine is 10 feet. Are you sure yours is only 6 feet?

I thought I had switched my cable with another for some reason, but I really can't remember. Being that it is gray it probably is the one as I never really seen those gray cables often. I wonder why yours is only 6 feet, is it possible you could measure it to be sure its not 10 feet.
 

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The 110 power cable -- not the gray multi-pin control/power cable attached to the charger -- is black. It is probably 3' in length. If no where else, you should be able to buy one at a computer store, radio shack (if you can find one), or a musical instrument store (think keyboards). They are also used for various audio things like mixers and self-powered monitors.
 

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The gray multi-pin cable, Mike offered carious lengths depending on WHERE you were planning to locate your charger... if you were going to mount it to a garage wall, or whatever. It would also depend on where you punched the hole in the car to get to the harness plug. My gray cable is only a few feet long.
 

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Thanks, hmm.

I have been using a gray one also. The only thing is mine is 10 feet. Are you sure yours is only 6 feet?

I thought I had switched my cable with another for some reason, but I really can't remember. Being that it is gray it probably is the one as I never really seen those gray cables often. I wonder why yours is only 6 feet, is it possible you could measure it to be sure its not 10 feet.
It's 6' long. As cindy says it's just a standard pc/monitor cable. I must have a dozen or more of them in a box somewhere.
 

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Thanks, the reason I asked is because I'm selling my grid charger and want to try and sell it with the exact power cord that it came with. I honestly thought it didn't even come with one, but I can't remember.

It seems different people may have got different power cords. I'm sure they were just sourced to what was the vest value at the time of building.
 

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I just bought Barry Jewett's silver 2001 insight. It came with a GCM1 grid charger. I have read the manual. When I follow the usage info, I connect it, push start. I get a message that reads 158.1 volts, R0 RD2. and "not charging". It does not charge! How can I get it to charge? Do I have a defective charger?
 

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Successful data logging via Windows 7 64-bit using V 2_6 & Labview 7 Express 32-bit

If you have tried the Labview programs, and get a File open error 7, It probably is because the program is trying to write 32 bit files on a 64 bit File system or vice versa?

Right click on the un opened file, and In the exe properties, there is a selection for running the programs in the XP compatibility mode.

I need to know what you guys are seeing, working or not so we can figure out how to set it up to work.
I can't test it on multiple machines, only you guys can do that, and if we keep at it, we could have a bunch of people using the program in short order.
I can get the program to run on vista and XP machines, but I would have to get a very expensive Labview upgrade to make a windows 7 version, or pay to have it built into a runtime for win7

After installing BOTH Datalogger and Config to the same folder (presumably the Datalogger default), open Explorer and browse to:

C:\Program Files (x86)\Datalogger V 2_6

Right-click "Set Charger Monitor ConvigV2_6", then click Properties

Click Compatibility tab, then check the box next to "Run this program in compatibility mode for:"

"Windows XP (Service Pack 3)" should be selected, now click OK

Repeat these steps for the "Datalogger V 2_6" file
 

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Download links for FREE (evaluation) VERSION Labview Express 7

Is there a post or link somewhere that lists the hardware/software/cabling required to do the datalogging? I've seen multiple programs mentioned.
Download LabVIEW 32-bit (1.43 GB):

http://ftp.ni.com/evaluation/labview/ekit/other/downloader/2016LV-WinEng_downloader.exe

Download LabVIEW 64-bit (1.47 GB):

http://ftp.ni.com/evaluation/labview/ekit/other/downloader/2016LV-64WinEng_downloader.exe

All EVALUATION editions:

http://download.ni.com/evaluation/labview/ekit/other/downloader/
 

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Back to my 2003 racing Insight after 8 months of sitting in FL heat. The IMA battery was turned "OFF" over the period. The 12V was disconnected. I charged up the 12V and it seemed OK. Starting with the 12V (no IMA) was painful...the engine did not want to catch right away, so it felt like the 12V was draining quickly. But the Insight did eventually start. I drove it home (IMA OFF) and immediately connected it to the Genesis charger, showing initial voltage at ~150V. Used precharge and Xtra end soak. It took over 12 hours (low current mode) and it all seemed to go well. Final voltage under charge was about 173V, then rested back to ~165V. It all looks good to me. Next test is when it gets back on the Autocross course.

I think leaving the IMA alone in storage, and being careful about recharging when returning it to service, hopefully is an OK strategy for these situations...

B

PS...End mode message was R7, max Mah reached (at ~7500), so that also seems pretty positive...
 

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I think leaving the IMA alone in storage, and being careful about recharging when returning it to service, hopefully is an OK strategy for these situations....
Yes, but if you want to be more careful, you should drain the pack by using lots of assist before you store the car (i.e. leave it at as low a state of charge as possible). That way any uneven rates of self discharge among cells will have the least impact on balance (or imbalance)... It's not uncommon to have one or a few cells lose all charge while others remain in some middling state, which isn't ideal and/or causes problems when you go to charge, either with a grid charger or just in-car. If you drain the pack when you store it, there isn't much charge state range to potentially become imbalanced, i.e. if they're all at say 20% SoC when you store, the most imbalanced the cells can become is 20%; if they're all at say 75% then the range of potential imbalance is 75%... Another side benefit is that you might get the ameliorative impact of having all the cells self discharge to a very low state, which can rejuvenate capacity. Personally, if I were going to store my car for months, I'd at least do an auto-stop discharge - stop the car in auto-stop and let the pack drain down until the 12V battery light comes ON...
 

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Thanks for that...it's counter-intuitive for me. I've peaked the charge on packs before leaving them in storage. Not sure why...just seemed the right thing to do. But I have the Genesis discharger, so it will be easy to get the pack to low state in the next go-around before putting the Insight away. Again...thanks for that...

B
 

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Grid Charging in the Snow...

Hello, I just dipped my toes into grid charging yesterday due to IMA lights.
My pack only has about 13k miles on it but it sat for the majority of 5yrs.

I purchased the meanwell 350mAH charger and paired it with the exisiting harness. I first discharged the pack down to 98v with a light bulb, after letting the battery sit, it bounced back to 148v.

Now I am charging it in 20-30f weather, will I need to keep a space heater on to warm up the batteries to the suggested 50f? I have the fan turned off to help.

Thanks
 

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Now I am charging it in 20-30f weather, will I need to keep a space heater on to warm up the batteries to the suggested 50f? I have the fan turned off to help.

Thanks
It has been recommended by Mike Dabrowski not charge NiMH below 40F. In fact his Genisis cycling equipment does not allow it unless you make a conscious choice to overrule the default.

I use a heater like you mentioned. A simple 1400 Watt "Box" heater should keep the inside of the car above 40F, but you should put a thermometer inside the car so you can get a peek through the window.

Don't direct the heater directly at the battery. You just want the overall temperature in the cabin to be above 40F.
 

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Grid Charging in the Snow...

It has been recommended by Mike Dabrowski not charge NiMH below 40F. In fact his Genisis cycling equipment does not allow it unless you make a conscious choice to overrule the default.
I'm currently switching power to my heater for roughly 5 minutes every hour to keep the cabin warm. Is there any danger to discharging in cold temps?
Thanks for your help!
 

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From my understanding, NE is a really cold area. Why not just put in a cheap 1400 Watt heater, with a dial thermostat and quit worrying about temperature. Put in a cheap thermostat to check temperatures.

Yes, I do not cycle below 40F, so I believe Mike Dabrowski who designed the excellent Genesis equipment. You are free to do anything you like with your own car.
 

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I just worry snow build up with a heater will crack glass, I found a cheap heater that has a 65f setting that'll keep it right around perfect.

Hopefully I'll be getting a carport soon to ease my mind :eek:hno:
 

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I've had a ~4 month autocross season in FL following the December recharge (after 8 months sitting). The IMA battery seemed to work well enough. Not sure it was perfect. I've tended to keep it charged up using the IMAC&C while driving on the highway, where maybe it should be able to keep the charge up without that. I peak charge it before each run at a race. That has been working as well as in the past.

In about a week, I'll be putting the Bluesight back in storage (again, 8 months), and this time I will go for the discharge option recommended by eq1. Not sure how far to discharge, but I have a Genesis 1 discharger that should give me some control over that. Not sure what the 20% SOC voltage might be, but it sounds like you don't want to go below .9v per cell which puts the discharged pack total voltage at about 104V. Does that sound like a good place to head to?

B
 

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In about a week, I'll be putting the Bluesight back in storage (again, 8 months), and this time I will go for the discharge option recommended by eq1. Not sure how far to discharge, but I have a Genesis 1 discharger that should give me some control over that. Not sure what the 20% SOC voltage might be, but it sounds like you don't want to go below .9v per cell which puts the discharged pack total voltage at about 104V. Does that sound like a good place to head to?
What discharge option am I recommending, now, that you're thinking about doing? The only thing I really recommend these days, other than cell-level discharge rigs, is tap-level - shorting the taps 5 at a time, using the voltage tap PTCs as discharge loads...

I guess I do recommend that people who are going to store their cars for many months should discharge their packs as much as possible, by driving and using assist and/or by leaving the car in auto-stop until the 12V battery warning light comes on... If you're using the Genesis discharger for the same kind of purpose, then I'd recommend discharging down to about 140V, I guess...

The main objective with this is that the pack will be almost empty, so any uneven rates of self discharge among the cells won't matter, it won't unbalance the pack. When you store the pack near car-full, you can end up with cells still near car-full (say 70%) and some completely empty...

Now, a corollary to this would be, perhaps, trying to reap some benefits of a slow, merely 'super'-deep discharge during the layover period (opposed to a 'deep' or 'ultra' deep discharge). Not sure if leaving the pack at ~140V would get far enough down that path - the idea would be that, at 140V the pack and hopefully all the cells are near 'empty', and then over the next 8 months the cells all self discharge to around 0.5V each. That's a super deep self discharge and has ameliorative benefits. But at 140V total voltage, it's possible some cells are still pretty high and won't self discharge 'all the way' during the 8 months...

I don't know, this is a bit nit picking. Point is, you might want to go a little deeper than 140V to help ensure that all the cells end up self discharged after 8 months. If the Genesis charger has a low current discharge - what?, 250mA?, 350mA? - I think I'd go as low as 132V. If it's around 1 amp I wouldn't go lower than 140V... If you just want to ensure that the cells don't get wacky out of balance over the 8 months, then I'd just do the modest ~140V discharge or the auto-stop discharge thing.
 

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According to the discharge table at Mike's 99mpg site (Grid Charger pages - search for "discharger current"), the discharge current at 140V is still 1.58A. So stopping at 140V might be prudent. There seems to be an implication that pulsed discharge may reduce that to half (~.8A). If that mode is actually available and usable for discharge, maybe I can use that below 140V. I can also use the OBDIIC&C to monitor the fairly accurate SOC number to stop at 20% SOC.

B
 
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