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J series engines have been in marine use for 10-15 years, and the dune racers have been tweaking them since they were sold in the Odyssey way back in 99.

They are indeed the uncommon beast.

Hell, a simple set of re-ground camshaft profiles and a ported intake manifold later, they are making 30+hp extra quite easily.

AThe hardest part of a J swap is sourcing a good manual transmission for a good price.

a GOOD condition 6speed manual J tranny goes for over $1000

Just a comparison, I got nearly all my K24 swap stuff for $600
 

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Yea I can imagine. Like when a V6 auto goes out on an older car I tell them the price and they basically don't believe me, lol.
 

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2002 J32 Honda Insight
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Discussion Starter #23
J series engines have been in marine use for 10-15 years, and the dune racers have been tweaking them since they were sold in the Odyssey way back in 99.

They are indeed the uncommon beast.

Hell, a simple set of re-ground camshaft profiles and a ported intake manifold later, they are making 30+hp extra quite easily.

AThe hardest part of a J swap is sourcing a good manual transmission for a good price.

a GOOD condition 6speed manual J tranny goes for over $1000

Just a comparison, I got nearly all my K24 swap stuff for $600
You would be surprised how affordable a swap is. You can pick up an accord transmission from the junkyard for 150$ and it bolts up straight to your junkyard J32. Full swap with ecu and axles for under $500.
 

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junkyard transmissions are hit or miss in my experience
 

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2002 J32 Honda Insight
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Discussion Starter #26
junkyard transmissions are hit or miss in my experience
For $150 a pop it's hard to complain.

I want to know about motor mounts, one offs?


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Yes, essentially lowered the car onto the motor and boxed out the mounts until it fit how I wanted.

The rear one has given me the most trouble and I bent my original one but remade it stronger.
86178


86179


86180


86181
 

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2002 J32 Honda Insight
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Discussion Starter #28
That’s awesome. How does it handle? I love corners. The straights are ok.
It handles great!

Its more of a straight line car, the chassis still has almost 400k on it and there is only so much my suspension can do to help.
The weight distribution is 70/30 so it bites into corners well but not so much underpower.
 

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so after the miles chassis flexes? That’s interesting. @Tigerroad mentioned something about flex and car body tweaking.


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My K swap chassis is at 260k, and it isn't so much that the chassis flexes but all of the bushings get soft. I put new control arms in as well as replaced the rear beam axle bushings with poly, and it really tightened things up. The front is a little crashy and I'm thinking I might need to up the spring rate a little more and give it some more travel, but honestly the car is pretty sharp overall. It wants to understeer, but I have larger tires up front, which helps. I might stiffen the rear beam axle a bit to move the handling more toward neutral.
 

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A tip for your welding on those thicker parts. You need to turn the power up on your MIG welder a click or two and try lapping the weld pool a little instead of just running a straight weld bead like that. You haven’t got much weld penetration there.
 

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2002 J32 Honda Insight
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Discussion Starter #32
My K swap chassis is at 260k, and it isn't so much that the chassis flexes but all of the bushings get soft. I put new control arms in as well as replaced the rear beam axle bushings with poly, and it really tightened things up. The front is a little crashy and I'm thinking I might need to up the spring rate a little more and give it some more travel, but honestly the car is pretty sharp overall. It wants to understeer, but I have larger tires up front, which helps. I might stiffen the rear beam axle a bit to move the handling more toward neutral.
This is pretty much exactly it.
I havent gotten around to changing any of the bushings but that is the next step to really get this car driving how I want.

A tip for your welding on those thicker parts. You need to turn the power up on your MIG welder a click or two and try lapping the weld pool a little instead of just running a straight weld bead like that. You haven’t got much weld penetration there.
Thanks for the tips, I am still learning a bit.
I think for that part I tried to turn it up more but I was maxed out at about 200A for 3/8 plate.
 

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I’m glad to know it’s not an issue with the chassis. When I replaced my bushings (DC5) car completely changed its behavior and any understeer became neutral leaning toward oversteer. I remember going around an apex fast and hard breaking rears loose and making the corner a bit surprised. I just need to get that girl corner balanced. Ecky, you have any idea of what your weight balance is on your setup?
 

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I looked up the weights and the J32 swap is a full 150 pounds heavier, but damn 1000HP?! I like where your train of thought is headed. I think I want to get rid of the headache of batteries and k20 it. Keep as much mpg as possible as I would probably daily 100 miles to work. But I love your build. I looked on Instagram and saw a few posts but maybe I’m looking at wrong thing.
 

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Ecky, you have any idea of what your weight balance is on your setup?
If I recall, I was seeing something like 650 over each front wheel and 350 over each rear wheel. Left right balance is nearly perfect with a K swap, front read is something like 65/35, I'll have to look in my old pictures for when I had the car on a scale.
 

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I need to purchase a set. I believe the long acre scales are probably a good bang for the buck. Thanks for sharing.
 

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Looks like putting a nice heavy lithium battery behind the driver side corner of the front bumper and slightly raising the spring height of the passenger rear would balance out the car quite nicely.

With a high capacity lithium, you could use a switch and control function of the alternator, and save some power and gain some mpg for short bursts.
 
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