Honda Insight Forum banner

1 - 20 of 133 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We adjusted the valves on my Uncles Insight this morning. We looked for a write up with pics before we started but didn't find one (Maybe I just didn't look hard enough, not sure)...Anyways we photographed the process in case it would help anyone out in doing their own valve adjustment, it's really a very easy procedure. My Uncles Insight is a 2005 and was ticking fairly loud when cold, it has 75K miles on it. We decided to do a valve adjustment just for piece of mind that they are set correctly.

Start with the engine cold! This is a MUST to get the valve clearance set correctly. I like to do the valves first thing in the morning after the car has sat all night.

Next place the parking brake on and place the transmission in neutral, this way the engine is disengaged from the transmission and you can rotate the engine over by hand when needed later on.

Tools: You will need a 19mm open end wrench, 17mm open/box end wrench, 10mm socket/ratchet, 10mm open/box end wrench, screw driver, feeler gauges.


Start by removing the three 10mm bolts that hold the plastic cover onto the top of the engine. Remove the plastic cover and set it aside along with the three bolts/washers.





This is what it will look like underneath the plastic cover. You can see the valve cover and several hoses that need to be moved out of the way.

Starting with the rear red arrow that I've labeled number "1", remove the nut/stud. Once it's removed you can slide the bracket underneath the stud up over the remaining stud and out of the way. Once the bracket is out of the way re-install the stud into the valve cover so it doesn't get lost.

Next remove the 10mm bolt on the right side of the valve cover that is holding the hose, I've labeled this one number "2". Move the bracket to the side and re-install the bolt back in the valve cover so it doesn't get lost.

Next remove the 10mm bolt on the left side of the valve cover that is holding the hose bracket to the valve cover. I've labeled this one number "3" in the pic. Place the bolt in a Jar or something similar so it won't get lost.

Next take a pair of pliers and slide back the clips holding the two hoses onto the top front of the valve cover, I've added two arrows pointing to the clips. Twist the hose as you pull them to get them to pop free, it may be helpful to take a flat bladed screw driver and gently pry the hoses loose as you pull them if they are stuck.





Your valve cover should look like this at this point.

Finally remove the remaining 10mm bolts around the base of the valve cover, place them in the jar so they won't get lost. At this point the valve cover is free and can be lifted up off the engine and set to the side.

NOTE: Two of the valve cover bolts are a different color than the others. The two corner bolts on the passenger side (Left Side) of the valve cover are black, the rest are gold colored. The black bolts have a thicker shank than the gold ones and are used to align the valve cover, take note of the holes that the black headed bolts come out of and re-install them in the same spot upon reassembly.





At this point you can see the valves. Now we need to get the engine rolled over to TDC (Top Dead Center) on the number 1 cylinder to start the adjustment procedure. The number 1 cylinder is the one closest to the camshaft sprocket...or closest to the passenger side of the car.

Using a 19mm open end wrench turn the nut on the crank pulley in a clockwise direction until the white line on the crank pulley lines up with the pointer, the white mark is Top Dead Center (TDC).





Continued below....They only let you include 4 images per post for some weird reason...hmmmmm. So I'll just break it up in a few posts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Continued from above.....

Now look at the end of the camshaft sprocket and look at the alignment mark. There are three flat lines on the sprocket, one of them has a "1" stamped under it. This is the reference for cyl number 1. The line should be level with the top of the engine surface. If you don't see the line with the "1" under it at this point rotate the crank 360 degrees and look at it again.





Once the white line on the crank pulley is lined up with the pointer and the flat line on the sprocket with the "1" under it is level with the top of the engine you are ready to check the valves on the number 1 cylinder.

The valve specs are:
Intake Clearance - 0.007 - 0.009 in
Exhaust Clearance is 0.008 - 0.010 in

I like to set my clearance at the bottom of the range, so we will be aiming for .007 for the intake valves and .008 for the exhaust valves.

Below is a close up of the valve adjustment screws. The 10mm nut is the jam nut and you use a flat bladed screw driver to turn the adjuster screw and make the adjustment.





Here I'm checking the clearance on one of the exhaust valves on cylinder number 1. The intake valves are the ones on the front side of the engine, the exhaust valves are the rear ones.

This is where you take the measurement at. The feeler gauge should slide through with a slight resistance, if it's to tight it will drag to much and if its to loose it will slide through with no resistance. Make sure that the feeler is level with the valve head as you push it through so you will get a accurate feel with it, if it's on a angle it can give you a false reading.

If you are unfamiliar with using a feeler gauge there is a simple way to double check yourself. If you are setting a valve to say .007" and you think you have about the right feel with the gauge (slight resistance) then try the feeler gauge above and below .007" to double check your work. A .006" feeler should be to loose and a .008" feeler should be to tight.

Cylinder number 1 had all 4 valves at the correct setting and none of them required adjustment. Now on to the next Cylinder.







The next cylinder that will be adjusted will be cylinder number 3, the one closest to the drivers side of the car. You will need to rotate the cam sprocket 120 deg (240 deg rotation on the crank pulley) to get the next flat line up mark on the cam sprocket to match up horizontal with the top of the engine again.

So rotate the crankshaft pulley in a clockwise direction again until the next flat line up mark appears as pictured below. At this point cylinder number 3 will be ready to adjust. (I like to double check by wiggling the rocker arms at this point. Cylinder number three should have a slight bit of play in the rocker arms at this point. Just grab them at the valve end of the rocker arm and wiggle them up and down, you should feel a very slight amount of play. This is just a double verification that this cylinder is ready to adjust.




Continued again below........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Continued from above....

We checked the valve clearances on cyl number 3 and found that both Intake valves were at .008" (still in the allowable range but we re-adjusted them to .007").

In this picture you can see us adjusting the intake valves on cylinder number 3. When you make an adjustment you have to allow a little for the stretch of the adjustment shaft when you tighten the jam nut back down. Once you make an adjustment and tighten the jam nut then re-check the clearance again. It may take a couple times to get it right.

The Torque specs for the jam nuts are:

14 ft-lbs on the Intake
10 ft-lbs on the Exhaust

I tightened the jam nuts by feel......






After Cylinder number 3 is completed then it's just the same procedure to check/adjust cylinder number 2 (the middle cylinder). Rotate the crank pulley until the next flat alignment mark on the camshaft sprocket lines up (120 Degrees of camshaft rotation). Then check and adjust the valves.

The number two cylinder on my uncles Insight had .009" exhaust measurements and .008" Intake measurements. We reset them to .008" and .007".

I like to record my as found and as left readings when adjusting valves so we wrote them down in the small book my uncle keeps for maint. on the car.

After all the cylinders have been checked and adjusted then just reverse the process to button the engine back up and your finished. If you have never completed a valve adjustment then plan on and hour or so worth of time to finish the job, it will go a lot faster after you have completed it once before.

Here's one last overall shot of the engine with the valve cover removed.



Hope this helps.



Hodakaguy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
416 Posts
Dude, you're sick! I have been meaning to do a valve adjustment for some time but was just going to take it to the shop. After seeing this, I will be doing it myself. These instructions are very thorough and the pictures are top notch. Congrats!

I have been hearing a loud ticking and even a knocking under load since owning the car and hope this fixes the problem. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
466 Posts
Nice work!

I've done mine twice an total time now is about 15 minutes from tools out to tools back in toolbox. It is VERY easy, takes moments, needs very few tools or expertise to do, and saves a lot of $$$.

Question, what program did you use to detail your pics? I would have liked to do that same post with the valves and the tranny/ISB replacement...
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks...I'm glad that the write up can help someone out. I really HATE taking any vehicle of mine to the shop, I just don't trust them. If I do it myself I know its done the way that I want it done, Time is money for a shop...they won't spend the extra time on your vehicle that you will to make sure everything is perfect.

For editing the photo's and inserting the arrows ect I just use MSPaint that comes with any PC, not the greatest but its free :) Just right click on your thumbnailed pics and click "open with"...then click MSPaint.

Hodakaguy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
When putting the gasket on the valve cover, do you have to use any kind of sealant?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
When putting the gasket on the valve cover, do you have to use any kind of sealant?
No..the gasket is a rubber type gasket and will re-seal as long as it's not damaged, just check it over carefully for nicks ect.
Hodakaguy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
So did the adjustment suppress the loud ticking when cold?
I talked to my uncle after he drove it and he said it was noticably quieter than it was before. Since checking/adjusting the valves is so easy and quick to do it's worth it just for my piece of mind that they are correct. I'll be doing mine soon as well.

I think I'm also going to clean the EGR plate just to make sure it's fully clean, I'll take some pictures of that process as well.

Hodakaguy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
922 Posts
Not to change the subject...but... is the VTEC piston "thingy" visible in any of these pictures? I have a P1259 code that reoccurs infrequently & I would like to find the location if it,the oil pressure switch, and related VTEC components. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
I talked to my uncle after he drove it and he said it was noticably quieter than it was before. Since checking/adjusting the valves is so easy and quick to do it's worth it just for my piece of mind that they are correct. I'll be doing mine soon as well.

I think I'm also going to clean the EGR plate just to make sure it's fully clean, I'll take some pictures of that process as well.

Hodakaguy
Thanks for sharing. I will be going mine soon, already bought the gasket.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,394 Posts
I didn't know it was that easy to do a valve adjustment on an Insight. The last valve adjustment I did was on a car without the adjustment nut/jam nut setup. I had to use special tools to hold the valve assembly open and fish a valve shim out after checking the gap against spec and swap it with a valve shim that was the proper thickness so the gap would be correct. When you aren't the first owner of the car and you don't know if the shims are standard size or not, they need to be measured and then cross referenced with either math or the chart that indicates which size shim to replace it with along with the part code. My buddy had a 'shim kit' that had a bunch of shims, I don't know if that was standard or something everyone normally needs but he is a mechanic and has that sort of thing around.

I did find out when I had the valve cover off that my 95 Prizm at nearly 200,000 miles at the time was spotless inside and had been running conventional oil for 10's of thousands of miles before the cover came off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Great post and good job on the pics too. We need more guys like you to do such a work so we all learn.
Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Great post and good job on the pics too. We need more guys like you to do such a work so we all learn.
Thank you
Thanks, How to Articles are fun to write up and can be pretty handy when you're working on something you have never done before. I really hate letting shops touch my cars, you as the owner of the car will always give it more care and detail than any shop will...you end up knowing the job was done right at the end of the day.

I need to get the gaskets ordered for the EGR plate cleaning (not a must but that's a critical area so I'll pop for the new gaskets)...then I'll do up another article on that.

Hodakaguy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
685 Posts
I didn't know it was that easy to do a valve adjustment on an Insight. The last valve adjustment I did was on a car without the adjustment nut/jam nut setup. I had to use special tools to hold the valve assembly open and fish a valve shim out after checking the gap against spec and swap it with a valve shim that was the proper thickness so the gap would be correct. When you aren't the first owner of the car and you don't know if the shims are standard size or not, they need to be measured and then cross referenced with either math or the chart that indicates which size shim to replace it with along with the part code. My buddy had a 'shim kit' that had a bunch of shims, I don't know if that was standard or something everyone normally needs but he is a mechanic and has that sort of thing around.
Hoo boy, does that bring back memories!! I had an Alfa Romeo that had shim-under-bucket adjustment. You had to measure all the clearances; remove the cams (there were two), hopefully without changing the valve timing; measure the shims; figure out which shims you needed; get them and install them; replace the cams; check the clearances; and check the valve timing when you were done.

There were many pitfalls:
- the tops of the valve stems would dimple the insides of the shims, so the micrometer would measure the ORIGINAL thickness of the shim rather than its effective thickness, and you had to allow for that
- some shops would grind shims, but I was told that could soften them, so I always got fresh ones
- you could not pull the plugs before doing this, because removing plugs (to make it easier to turn over the engine) could drop bits of crud onto the sealing surfaces on top of the valves, which would keep them from seating completely and throw off the measured clearances
- you had to stuff the valve chain housing (and any other openings) with clean rags so you didn't drop bits such as valve cap washers or nuts down into the engine (I did this once)

After the first few times I kept a record of what shims were in the engine so I'd have a starting point at least.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
416 Posts
Well, I'm going to attempt to do the valve adjustement this saturday. Wish me luck as I even take the car in for oil changes... lol
 
1 - 20 of 133 Posts
Top