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2001 5S "Turbo"
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Chemtool and a razor blades works for me.
 

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What Willie says, about cleaning is good.

When removing the oil pan, you need to remove the accessory belt. Then you can undo the A/C compressor and swing it out of the way.

Take out all the bolts on the bottom of the oil pan. There is one bolt that goes into side of the oil pan and it is the lower bolt for the belt tensioner bracket. Don’t forget this one.

When doing the front crank seal, the 19mm headed bolt can be very tight, it may require a tool to hold the crankshaft pulley and a breaker bar to get it loose. Pry out the seal. Pull off the spacer. Use emery cloth to clean the outside of the spacer. Replace the O-ring on the inside of the spacer. Install the new seal into the timing cover first. Then install the spacer with the new O-ring second. It’s important to do this in the correct order so as not to damage the lip on the new seal.

HTH,
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #23
What Willie says, about cleaning is good.

When removing the oil pan, you need to remove the accessory belt. Then you can undo the A/C compressor and swing it out of the way.

Take out all the bolts on the bottom of the oil pan. There is one bolt that goes into side of the oil pan and it is the lower bolt for the belt tensioner bracket. Don’t forget this one.

When doing the front crank seal, the 19mm headed bolt can be very tight, it may require a tool to hold the crankshaft pulley and a breaker bar to get it loose. Pry out the seal. Pull off the spacer. Use emery cloth to clean the outside of the spacer. Replace the O-ring on the inside of the spacer. Install the new seal into the timing cover first. Then install the spacer with the new O-ring second. It’s important to do this in the correct order so as not to damage the lip on the new seal.

HTH,
Scott
Scott, I have the crank pulley and front main seal out. How do I safely pull out the spacer?

Also, I have all the bolts off the oil pan, but cant figure out what to do to actually separate the pan. Is there a safe place to wedge a prybar or thick screwdriver? Or hit with a plastic mallet?

Thank you
 

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FYI: When assembling, be sure to use "sensor safe" sealant that is safe for oxygen sensors. When I was learning about t what kills o2 sensors, silicone gasket sealant was on the list. (Google for this).5
 

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Discussion Starter #25
FYI: When assembling, be sure to use "sensor safe" sealant that is safe for oxygen sensors. When I was learning about t what kills o2 sensors, silicone gasket sealant was on the list. (Google for this).5
Scott sent me OEM tube of oil pan sealant. I will be following exact steps from the manual.

Im going to follow the dotted line path (practicing with the tube closed) and immediately installing once Ive finished. Manual says if it takes you longer than 1 minute, it doesnt work as well.

Ill also be waiting the full three day cure time (and using exact factory torque specs and tightening pattern), Im not taking any chances.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Welp, over the past 3 days I resealed the oilpan, replaced all the o-rings with it, put in a new tensioner pulley (and reground the rounded off adjusting rod hex head) new accessory belt, put in a new front main seal (probably in too far, but Im crossing my fingers) with spacer o-ring (spacer has threaded m3 x 0.5 holes to pull it out with) new valve cover gasket (old one was solid, and very short, leaking badly) pcv valve and grommet, took the throttle body and iac valve off ( basically all clean, but I did notice iac valve wasnt fully open, maybe thats been the source of my low power woes...ill look into this further) and no leaks so far! Only ran it for a few minutes to properly fill engine oil, and check for fuel leaks.

With much much much help from Scott.

Ill be taking it to work tomorrow, and checking for leaks that night.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
No leaks from the stuff I installed... but head gasket is leaking for sure out the passenger side... ugh. And I should probably do a clutch too... severe shuddering from takeoff since I got it.

Im also going to be double checking all the ground wires in the engine bay, and also looking at how the ecu is grounded.

Does anyone know if the way the ecu is mounted can impact grounding?
 

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2002 Blue 5MT
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severe shuddering from takeoff since I got it.
Check your rear motor mount before you do anything wild with the clutch. Mine was shot; replacing it fixed my shuddering. They're not built too strong since these are really light engines. There's a guy on eBay who sells rebuilt mounts for about $65 shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Check your rear motor mount before you do anything wild with the clutch. Mine was shot; replacing it fixed my shuddering. They're not built too strong since these are really light engines. There's a guy on eBay who sells rebuilt mounts for about $65 shipped.
Good suggestion, it really is the clutch, unfortunately. Previous owner said they did a clutch job without resurfacing OR cleaning flywheel.

I do need to replace the passenger side mount, but lower and drivers side mount are new.
 
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