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I had a scare that maybe my camshaft broke or some valve issue. Could t start my car two days in a row but this morning she started up after several attempts and ran just fine. I was thinking maybe fuel pump looking at 273k miles. It runs fine now and I’m left wondering. Anyone else experience something like this?


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2002 Honda Insight [manual]
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Threw in a Prelude shift adapter. Then took my friend to Taco Bell to find the passenger seatbelt has the wet problem. First good rain here since I've had the car.
 

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2002 Honda Insight [manual]
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My spoiler/brake light trim piece fell off yesterday and was hanging by the wires so I took a look and saw the middle bolt seemed to be missing a nut. Took off the interior trim and saw it rattling around in it's little hole... so that's what that rattle sound has been!

Generously applied loctite and screwed it back on. Now the spoiler is tight and only as a little bit of slop side to side since there's no plastic tabs holding the ends on, just the middle bolt.

Lots of things going wrong lately!
 

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Put 963 miles on the car yesterday. Wanted to test an IMA change but got IMA code P1448 (read from IMA ECU, not main ECU) which probably means I did not hook up the fan before I buttoned it up and the pack overheated. Not.about to unpack everything to fix. IMA light on but DC-DC still working means press on. Did learn that this moves redline from 6000 to 5500. Learned how much that extra 500 RPM matters in second on the big grades on I-40 at 7000 feet with no IMA!!!

Put about 25 of those miles on old route 66:
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I'd love to take a month or two at some point and puts around and do a cross country drive. Bucket list for sure. Would prefer a k swapped insight just for the bigger grades though. However a good working stock insight is really more than capable if in no hurry.
 

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2000 Insight with Manual Transmission and A/C
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10 Rocker Pillars Floor & Exterior Moulding Clips Compatible with Honda 91503-S3Y-003 Amazon.com: 10 Rocker Pillars Floor & Exterior Moulding Clips Compatible with Honda 91503-S3Y-003 : Automotive

Buy these X2. Remove roof moulding, perform wet seat belt fix.
Thanks for this link. From watching a couple of wet seatbelt fix videos on youtube, isn't there one clip on each side that's different than the others?

Also, I recall one video removes the trim by cutting the clips with a utility knife while the trim is still connected to the roof. Is there not another way to do this? Won't the interior pieces of the clips just stay in the A-Pillar forever if you do it that way?
 

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Mine decided to overheat today on the way to work. Turned on the heat and noticed the cluster's temp gauge went up the next notch/set amount of bars.

Whipped out my UltraGauge and lo and behold: 240-some°F

Pulled over and shut everything off. Waited about a minute, turned it back on and the UltraGauge read 220°F. Figured I was good to go, the temp reading climbed back up as I was moving. Turned the heat off for S&Gs and noticed temps dropping to an average 205°F at this point.

Being extra confused at 5am about why this was happening, I stopped at a Wawa (gas station chain) and grabbed some coffee. Temps went back down to the average readings and stayed put on the rest of the journey.

Drove it around town during lunch and even did some pulls. Didn't notice any loss of power. Temperature readings stayed within a normal range of 195-205°F. Fans kicked on the one time it went up to 212°F as I sat at a light and stayed at 204.8°F until I moved. I've even turned on the A/C to disable auto-stop. Photos below were taken on a closed course.




Coolant reservoir is currently empty. I remembered it being on the low end, but not quite below the low mark. Going to take it home, drive the Fit or Miata to work tomorrow, then burp the coolant correctly once I gather some hose and coolant on Tuesday.

I'll be relatively free that day and after witnessing an example of bleeding the coolant on a G1 at the maintenance meet, I knew I'd need to set some time aside. Another benefit on my side is my driveway is on an incline.

edit- enjoy a positive photo:

 

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I'll be relatively free that day and after witnessing an example of bleeding the coolant on a G1 at the maintenance meet, I knew I'd need to set some time aside. Another benefit on my side is my driveway is on an incline.
Just remember that it takes a looong time for the system to thoroughly burp all the air:)

You will need coolant in addition to equipment.
 

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Just remember that it takes a looong time for the system to thoroughly burp all the air:)

You will need coolant in addition to equipment.
See above or below ;)

Going to take it home, drive the Fit or Miata to work tomorrow, then burp the coolant correctly once I gather some hose and coolant on Tuesday.
 

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Daytime Wood Architecture Rectangle Font

This was the mornings project. It started leaking coolant Thursday, so I parked it and could only see it was the radiator leaking, the hoses were perfect. I ordered one online from RadiatorNow.com and had it in hand Friday.

It was hard to remove as the a/c condenser was jammed into it!, once I got it out I could see the "V" bend in the condenser in front of the radiator that caused the damage... I've had it 8 years/90,000 miles with no leaks. Some crap body work happened before I got the car, I knew the bumper had been off/painted, just never knew this.

So I could not easily install the new radiator, so after some prying and beating on the condenser with a rubber mallet I got it installed... and so far no freon leaks. The old condensers were sure strong, new civic ones are JUNK.

Refilled with Honda coolant, burped and bled the cooling system and all is well once again.
 

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@julianachos
I fixed an Insight with a major overheating problem. Can't stress enough safety when burping using the techniques described. Don't hold anything - figure out ways that things are supported - so that overflowing hot coolant does not burn you. Also, be prepared to shut down the car very quickly if it starts overflowing rapidly. That will stop the heat source and should quickly stop the overflow. Then be ready to add coolant quickly as it gets sucked back in quite quickly when it is cooling, as I recall. As more air is replaced by coolant, the tendency to overflow eventually stops and the process becomes less nerve-wracking. But again, you can get seriously burned. I would advise most people to pay to have this done.

If the coolant expansion tank is ever dry, that's a BAD SIGN - you are sucking in air. It should never be allowed to go dry. When you have everything fixed, you will know it is working when in the mornings you see the fluid level in the recovery tank at the same minimum after every night of cooling, and after a drive the fluid level in the expansion tank will be its highest.

There is a tendency of the tube attached to the cap inside the coolant expansion tank to fall off. This is BAD because the tank essentially works like a straw in side when the engine is cooling. It creates suction that draws the coolant back in through the straw.

In my car, the tube fell off but rather than fish it out, the mechanic stuck some random tube they had laying around onto the inside of the cap. The tube was hard plastic and did not seat well. Ever suck a soda through a straw with a crack in it? You get a lot of air. That is what was going on.

In my cars, to prevent the tube from falling off again, I used a knife to fabricate some "barbs" on the tube attached to the cap, then slid the "straw" tube on it, then wrapped a bunch of magnet wire around it to ensure it would never fall off.
 

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I'd love to take a month or two at some point and puts around and do a cross country drive. Bucket list for sure. Would prefer a k swapped insight just for the bigger grades though. However a good working stock insight is really more than capable if in no hurry.
A used Sprinter might be a better choice; you can sleep in it. Tons more room. Fantastic view. Towing an Insight, of course. @israndy knows about this.
 

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I fixed an Insight with a major overheating problem. Can't stress enough safety when burping using the techniques described. Don't hold anything - figure out ways that things are supported - so that overflowing hot coolant does not burn you. Also, be prepared to shut down the car very quickly if it starts overflowing rapidly. That will stop the heat source and should quickly stop the overflow. Then be ready to add coolant quickly as it gets sucked back in quite quickly when it is cooling, as I recall. As more air is replaced by coolant, the tendency to overflow eventually stops and the process becomes less nerve-wracking. But again, you can get seriously burned. I would advise most people to pay to have this done.
Planning on making a dedicated Insight funnel, so it could be properly hanged with the needed support. This will take about a solid hour of me finessing some driveway engineering. Good thing I have almost all day to worry about this however it does suck we are losing daylight hours.

If the coolant expansion tank is ever dry, that's a BAD SIGN - you are sucking in air. It should never be allowed to go dry. When you have everything fixed, you will know it is working when in the mornings you see the fluid level in the recovery tank at the same minimum after every night of cooling, and after a drive the fluid level in the expansion tank will be its highest.
I picked up some coolant on the way home yesterday after thinking about the drive and filled it up. Sure enough, it was damn low by the time I got home. Filled it up again once I got home as it was almost dry when I checked it.

There is a tendency of the tube attached to the cap inside the coolant expansion tank to fall off. This is BAD because the tank essentially works like a straw in side when the engine is cooling. It creates suction that draws the coolant back in through the straw.

In my car, the tube fell off but rather than fish it out, the mechanic stuck some random tube they had laying around onto the inside of the cap. The tube was hard plastic and did not seat well. Ever suck a soda through a straw with a crack in it? You get a lot of air. That is what was going on.

In my cars, to prevent the tube from falling off again, I used a knife to fabricate some "barbs" on the tube attached to the cap, then slid the "straw" tube on it, then wrapped a bunch of magnet wire around it to ensure it would never fall off.
I read that somewhere in a thread you've posted on. Mine hasn't fallen off, but I'm sure it will one day. Good call on the self-made barbs and wire. Might take that route.
 

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Burped the coolant today. Seemed like that fixed the issue I was having.




Will post details in my thread tomorrow after I change out the EGR plate. Bought a second one so I can just swap it out instead of having to clean it out right there and then when I take it out.
 
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