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2000 Insight 5MT
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Just finished a 600mi road trip in the Insight. Fuel economy on the way back was terrible (42mpg) but damn near everything was working against me. Wrong tires, no engine drip tray (my aluminum one from Scott arrived right before I left), AC on, 70-80MPH highway, stiff headwind, and rolling hills. Yikes.

Basically had to choose between using 5th gear and having AC, so I spent most of the drive back in 4th until I realized that if I made truckers upset by hanging off their rear bumper I could cruise in 5th and get about 65mpg on the instant readout.

Wheel Car Tire Land vehicle Vehicle
 

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2002 Monte Carlo Blue CVT
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1,444 Posts
Filled it with gas. Apologies for lack of photos, but I have really consciously been managing my mpg over the past week or so, and am thinking I won’t manage to get it much above say 60.8 avg/tank. I did not make a 600 mile tank (remember CVT with 317 K miles), since commuting needs forced me to have to fill up at 592 miles on the trip/tank ODO, but I was still showing two bars on the gas gauge and the fuel light had not yet lit. Took 9.6 gallons so calculated was 61.66 and dash display was 60.3 (I was using AC on econ for first time this year).

I kept mph at or below posted limit for much of that tank and did not use any ac. I think somewhere between 60.6 and 61.1 (dash display) is about the best I am capable of and still have a viable commuting vehicle. One way trip time for commute averages about an hour. I might do better driving 50, but I don’t want an endless commute.
 

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Just finished a 600mi road trip in the Insight. Fuel economy on the way back was terrible (42mpg) but damn near everything was working against me. Wrong tires, no engine drip tray (my aluminum one from Scott arrived right before I left), AC on, 70-80MPH highway, stiff headwind, and rolling hills. Yikes.

Basically had to choose between using 5th gear and having AC, so I spent most of the drive back in 4th until I realized that if I made truckers upset by hanging off their rear bumper I could cruise in 5th and get about 65mpg on the instant readout.

View attachment 97015
Suggest cleaning the throttle and maybe the EGR plate. Somethings not right. Cool new door tho. I like your Youtube videos also.
 

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Stared at mine today wishing I could drive it with the A/C on. I think my ISB is making noise, so I've been playing it safe instead of rocking it another 250 miles this weekend.

Instead I've been driving my Miata, which lacks A/C and still has its hardtop on. My other car also lacks functioning A/C.
 

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2006 CVT 179K
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36 Posts
Got an wheel alignment and installed the silver spat that came in the hatch of my red insight.
Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle


I don't hate it. Didn't buy the car for the body work anyway. But I'd like to find a red one to match the passenger side.
 

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Wheel Car Tire Vehicle Hood
 

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00 MT
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24 Posts
Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Car Vehicle
Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Car Vehicle


Much needed spring bath. I don't want the silver paint plague that seems so common, so I've been doing a ceramic coat every spring. This time was a strip wash, claybar, second strip wash and touchup on the stuff I missed, and then turtle hybrid ceramic (which is super easy to use, and lasts an easy 6 months). Did the headlights too, I was curious how well the ceramic coat will work on them to avoid yellowing. Probably not great, but eventually I'll get around to using a real urethane 2k clear on them.

I need to refinish the wheels next. I don't want to just paint them, I like the machined/brushed finish. My plan is to mount them on a unit/flange hub on the bench and spin them at ~60 rpm and sand them down, keeping that rotary scratch pattern (and leaving the painted sections alone) and then clearcoating.
 

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2002 Monte Carlo Blue CVT
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1,444 Posts
Pulled a P1457 evap code. Noticed a crack in the gas cap gasket, so swapped the gas cap with my current non-runner. Hoping that solves the problem.
 

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2000 Silverstone G1- 200k miles
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243 Posts
Really eyeing that Rostra cruise kit for my car. We'll see how my 500mi road trip this coming weekend goes.

Hopefully have a belly pan for me and another for my buddy on the way from Scott, excited to see what that does for my fuel economy.

Replaced my EGR valve today on a whim, car roughly doubled its off-idle torque and transients are buttery smooth now. Bought a Duralast part for a 3.0 Honda Odyssey. Car still doesn't love going into lean burn. It'll kick in for 1 second and then kick right back out. LAF is less than a year old and matches what the car had factory and the EGR passages are clear. Huh.

View attachment 96924
Interesting. I also just replaced my EGR valve with a similar unit and noticed no change. Thought maybe the internal sensor might have been corroded or worn. But I have very little power in lean burn per usual. It's a little easier/more willing to go into lean burn, so 60 before and 62 mpg after, but I think the injectors might be due. I'm gonna drive it for a few days before deciding on the LAF or the injectors
 

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2002 Honda Insight [manual]
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75 Posts
Took the front brake pads off, indeed they are quite worn. I have a consistent screach that goes away sometimes after braking. Couldn't find any new pads in town so I put the old ones back on and ordered new pads online.
 

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2000 Silverstone G1- 200k miles
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243 Posts
Took the front brake pads off, indeed they are quite worn. I have a consistent screach that goes away sometimes after braking. Couldn't find any new pads in town so I put the old ones back on and ordered new pads online.
Your brakes need bedding in. Try going up to 60mph as quickly as you can and firmly slowing down (not a full panic stop, but a quick slow down) to 5-10mph. Repeat 5-10 times and drive for 10 minutes (preferably on a highway; holding the brakes at a full stop during a bedding procedure could leave extra pad material at the portion you stopped at and potentially introduce shuddering).

Do this anytime you install new brakes or rotors and when you notice squeaking.

It helps to use a ceramic pad as well.

Edit: an exception to squeaky brakes being not bed in right is when the wear "indicator" (more like noise maker) starts rubbing on the disk making a similar noise.
 

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2002 Monte Carlo Blue CVT
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This evening’s commute suggests failure with the gas cap replacement as the solution to my P1457 evap code. Any recommendations as the what to check next, i.e., any common sources?
 

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2000 Silverstone G1- 200k miles
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This evening’s commute suggests failure with the gas cap replacement as the solution to my P1457 evap code. Any recommendations as the what to check next, i.e., any common sources?
Problem is likely to be the vent-shut valve

P1457 evap system leak.

A very brief search of youtube will reveal that P1457 is likely due to a leak in the "vent shut" valve that sits on top of the evap canister. This valve starts leaking because of rust.

I found that the evap canister area was packed with sand. I am in the rust belt. However, sand will do the job just as well as salt.

Ideally, you can get the evap canister to lift off the bracket. With removal of three hoses and an electrical connector, you can replace the "vent shut" valve.

Things did not go that well. I cleared out the area and got snootfuls of sand. Due to a snootful of carbon, I replaced the canister filter.

I was unable to separate the vent shut valve from the evap canister. I replaced both.

The "two-way" valve flunked visual inspection but was amazingly in stock.

A bolt holding two brackets together broke. The bolts holding the complex to the underbody held. Three brackets, a stay, and most of the hoses were replaced.

My P1457 was cleared using an ELM-327 transmitter and an Iphone using OBD Auto Doctor. Search Amazon for the ELM-327 transmitter. Search the app store for OBD Auto Doctor.

The ELM-327 iphone combination uses wi-fi. A version of ELM-327 is available for Android using bluetooth.

This was not an easy job. A very difficult part of it is to remove three electrical connectors. I visited Delegard Tool Co. (Minneapolis) and got a Lisle 13120 electrical connector separator. Use this to loosen things up. Remove the Lisle and remove normally.

I have since ordered a hose plier which is not a hose clamp plier. Some of the hose pliers are in sets of three for different sized hoses.

Perhaps of more significance is the front to back brake line which sits above this complex. This brake line sits below the electrical connectors and above the evap complex.

This brake line area shows rust. Visual inspection of rust is subjective. An area that has been packed with sand is somewhat more suspicious.

The right sided front-to-back brake line can be replaced without dropping the tank. However, I think that it will be necessary to detach the above-described brackets.

I am in good shape having new brackets.

My occasionally get this same code but it's usually due to aggressive driving or if I hand the keys to someone else. Never shows up for me funny enough.

Id check that vent shut valve first
 

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2002 Honda Insight [manual]
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75 Posts
OK, I received my new front brake pads from RockAuto and put 'em in. Pretty easy but I went to harbor freight and got a brake cylinder compressor since I didn't think of that. Did some stops at speed in neutral to avoid regen braking while bedding them in. I overfilled my brake fluid a couple weeks ago and some came out. Just a small mess. But it's silent now in auto stop and no more screeching at any time.
 

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2002 Insight 5MT A/C
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65 Posts
I know a lot of you are going to hate this.
15x7 Enkei RPF1s put on the car. Hankook Ventus V2 195/50R15.
Averaging over 50 mixed city and highway still with an IMA battery that just **** itself. Really fun coincidence for that to happen right after buying totally unnecessary wheels, lol.
In this spec, RPF1s are 1.5 lbs lighter than stock, so that may have a factor in the fuel economy.
I plan on eventually getting RE92s on the stock wheels and swapping them out as needed.
Car Wheel Vehicle Tire Vehicle registration plate
 

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I know a lot of you are going to hate this.
15x7 Enkei RPF1s put on the car. Hankook Ventus V2 195/50R15.
Averaging over 50 mixed city and highway still with an IMA battery that just **** itself. Really fun coincidence for that to happen right after buying totally unnecessary wheels, lol.
In this spec, RPF1s are 1.5 lbs lighter than stock, so that may have a factor in the fuel economy.
I plan on eventually getting RE92s on the stock wheels and swapping them out as needed.
View attachment 97347
BURN THE WITCH! HERESY!!!!

Real talk though, I love those wheels. I had RPF-1's on my Miata. I also love those tires. I have a set on my Volvo and they are about the best handling tires I have ever had.

[Edit]: About your IMA pack, it was probably on its last legs anyway and barely holding on, and adding the extra strain from wider/stickier tires just sent it over the edge.
 
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