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2002 Monte Carlo Blue CVT
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Yesterday— drove it for the first time in 11 days. I pass my mechanic’s on the drive home from work and didn’t see it in his lot, which had me thinking it was inside on a lift. Alas, I came home to find it parked in my driveway — he had dropped it off (probably because he wanted to drive it a bit, which I said was fine when he told me he was interested in getting one). Sometimes it’s good to live in a small town.

Yesterday’s drive was, thankfully, uneventful. I watch my dash display like a hawk when driving and it appears to have paid off this time given that I shut the engine off pretty much instantly when I saw the temp start to move upward.

For now, I appear to have avoided significant engine damage.
 

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This was the last trip coming home from Atwood Tennessee where I’m working.

I drive through seven red lights and five or six stop signs. The car is doing spectacular. Does not have a under tray yet.

Have not cut the muffler off yet that’s 8 pounds that you don’t need.

and I’m really thinking about making a folktale boat tail.

Usually only drive the car 8 miles to work and back or 16 miles round-trip. That 70 miles round-trip really makes me appreciate the car mower the smell of aluminum is getting more enticing.

car I’m driving is not Frankenstein with the yellow wheels this is just a car from Missouri that I don’t drive much. And I put the vapor gas line Doohickey on it which gives me 20 extra miles to the gallon. First two weeks I drove the car I was getting between 70 and 80 mpg now I’m getting what you see in the picture.

Car also has Walmart Douglas 175 6514 tires.

and they are ranked at 51 psi so I’ve got them at 70 psi. If they were re 92s I would have them at 90.psi
 

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This was July 21 map farmers should have stayed home stayed in bed all year going to lose huge amounts of money.

Making a fourth of a crop will help feed the people but it cost farmers everything.
Corn farmers around here will be losing about $400 an acre.

looks like Cotton will lose big time also.

some of the crocs will not even be harvested there’s nothing there. Some places have had two more rains than others and others have had a lot less than that.

it used to be you could have serval years of low
and do OK because seeds and chemicals were not extremely expensive. Today you can buy tea for seven dollars a cup in Humboldt Tennessee and I hear that there’s a place that sells coffee that’s very expensive. The chemical companies are doing the same with chemicals. If you don’t make a bumper crop you’re over.

bumper means better than normal better than average you know like comparing me to Brad Pitt. One of us would be the bumper crop the other would be average.

Brad Pitt Loves the smell of platinum in the morning😎
 

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On yesterday's hot day, kiddo reported ... two "your pack is shot - buy a new one" codes.
I got the car back and took it for a drive. The IMA seemed to develop full current, and did not throw codes. Then again, while I use full IMA, I do it only occasionally (on my favorite onramp) and otherwise try to keep the pack high while hupermiling. Perhaps repeated hits to a depleted pack throws codes?
 

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But actually I need to know why the pack needs conditioning. This will tell me:
Passive circuit component Circuit component Hardware programmer Electrical wiring Electronic engineering

Yeah it is ugly. But it is a proof of concept and teaching tool. Built it a few years back to measure channel voltages during full assist and regen. Opened it up to try different power and ground topologies for best signal integrity for version 2. Also fixed it so it hopefully measures pack current too. Plotted data is rock solid - on a pack in the basement. Before the latest power rewiring mods it was fairly jittery in the car. Really interested to see if the new power and ground wiring is stabilizing.
Mobile phone Mobile device Communication Device Portable communications device Gadget

Version 2 of this modded BCM is the basis for my LTO conversion which I am really excited about.
 

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Couldn't that tool be used to see when a grid charge is done? You would see all the voltages level out, right?
 

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Couldn't that tool be used to see when a grid charge is done? You would see all the voltages level out, right?
A good question. However, you are asking me about a technique for conditioning a pack that I don't use. After having found a grid charger ineffective on a pack, and then hearing it described as not a fix but a way to get a few more cycles out of a pack for which replacement is inevitable, yet reading here a few years back that Eli was confident enough in a conditioning regimen to offer reconditioned packs for sale with a warranty and having seen first hand the benefits of applying automation to the problem, I decided that there must be a better way and took a closer look at Mike D's work, read a lot of old posts on the subject, and built a cell-level programmable stick tester to actually test ideas.

I don't use grid charging to balance a pack - no grid charger installed. I only use OEM packs, and I very carefully discharge and charge at very low rates offline while another pack powers the car.

I use this tool to look for channels that drop much lower than the rest during assist which tells me a lot about a pack's condition.

This particular BCM started as a spare from another car, is a prototype, and is not for normal driving. For one, the wires would eventually break off from the constant vibration.
 

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Have you had the big cover off to seal the battery cooling fans? I used window putty, rolled a few ropes with it, and went around the fan to seal it up. My Insight, before I gutted the back end, didnt seem to mind 90 degree days with teh AC on during deliveries.

I found out also, some relays were nto allowing the power blower or battery fan to come on at low speed, would only jump right to high speed. THat might have something to do with my setup being a bit less sensitive (once the cooling was triggered).

All the big snapon scanners can force activate the cooling at all speeds, so well worth having a mechanic buddy help diagnose if you simply have a bad cooling relay. There are 2 relays in the rear (just behind driver right shoulder, forward battery enclosure) and the 4 or 6 relays in left far rear corner of enclosure.
Circling back to this post in response to my heating woes. I got a hold of my friend's scan tool while he was on vacation and did some tests on both fans.



Both fans ran on both settings. Went under the car while the DC-DC converter's fan was on and felt strong airflow from the vent. I think I need to just make it a habit of running the AC, especially during days over 90°F while the "feels like" temp was in the hundreds last week here - it's the hottest it's been here since I've owned the Insight.

It also doesn't help I've been reliving my teen years with the +40% hack on said hot days. Drove around all day yesterday with the windows down in 80°F and behaved myself a little. Giving it the beans didn't seem to affect it like it did last week.

I made an appointment for a windshield change yesterday and today I'm going to make another appointment for tint. The windshield guy said he can get a windshield in quick and tried to get me to do the swap today! If the forecast didn't call for rain today and the next few days, I'd be down to do it but I don't want to drive around with the A-pillar panels missing. I also need to fix the seam sealer under there, too.
 

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julianachos


Cabin temp makes a big difference for cooling, due to the passenger rear lower grill vent that is the air source for the battery pack.

If you drive with the window cracked open just a smidge, it should be noticed with the scantool showing temps.

You can certainly opt to super glue a pair of 60mm Noctua or Delta fans to it, so it forces air into the battery pack. Then just run a pair of 16-12 awg wires to the power/cig port backside in the center of the dash, so they only draw power with the car ignition turned on.

Sealing the fan made a big difference for me, as it creates much more air suction/movement.
 

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julianachos


Cabin temp makes a big difference for cooling, due to the passenger rear lower grill vent that is the air source for the battery pack.

If you drive with the window cracked open just a smidge, it should be noticed with the scantool showing temps.

You can certainly opt to super glue a pair of 60mm Noctua or Delta fans to it, so it forces air into the battery pack. Then just run a pair of 16-12 awg wires to the power/cig port backside in the center of the dash, so they only draw power with the car ignition turned on.

Sealing the fan made a big difference for me, as it creates much more air suction/movement.
I've been following this discussion with interest. I want to find a way to create negative pressure in the IMA compartment so that a vented LTO cell vents outside the car instead of inside. The DC-DC/IGBT cooling airflow is outside to outside while the pack airflow, not so sure.
 

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Couldn't that tool be used to see when a grid charge is done? You would see all the voltages level out, right?
Your post was an inspiration, @Balto. Although I don't grid charge to balance, it helped me realize that a dedicated data stream that an external charger can use (to fill or float a pack) that includes cell voltages and pack temps would be really useful. Obvious in retrospect. Below is an RS-485 board that will stream this data to multiple listeners - charger, data logger, dash display, listener to push to the web... I may hang the Bluetooth interface off this bus instead. It will exit through spare pins on the BCM temp sensor/PTC strip connector.

In addition to RS-485 providing noise immunity (much needed for any data lines leaving the IMA compartment) the extra parts provide isolation (signal isolation and a small isolated DC-DC converter for power isolation).

I'm using the Analog Devices ADuM1201 for signal isolation for the first time. All breakout boards and the DC-DC are from Amazon. This isolator apparently handles very high speeds. I may try pushing the serial interface to 1 mbps and see how it goes. On V2 which is for LTO I will use it to publish a lot more data for logging and analysis.
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Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Audio equipment Electronic engineering

There is a convenient slot on the BCM connector inside the enclosure that will hold this board, and I am replacing a short screw in the BCM enclosure with a longer one to secure the board at the corner.
 

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Cabin temp makes a big difference for cooling, due to the passenger rear lower grill vent that is the air source for the battery pack.

If you drive with the window cracked open just a smidge, it should be noticed with the scantool showing temps.
I did another test today while I drove it for 150 miles. Feels like temp today was 95° and drove in town with the air on the floor vents and did a decent difference. I’m just not the kind of person using A/C all the time. My job is me sitting in a server room majority of the time and I’m not a fan of the cold. Staying cool is one thing, but the battery area only seems happy in town if I have the air on auto at 60°F while i freeze myself compared to ECON at 70°F.

You can certainly opt to super glue a pair of 60mm Noctua or Delta fans to it, so it forces air into the battery pack. Then just run a pair of 16-12 awg wires to the power/cig port backside in the center of the dash, so they only draw power with the car ignition turned on.

Sealing the fan made a big difference for me, as it creates much more air suction/movement.
On 8/9, the Insight is getting ceramic tint. I’m going to see how much of a difference that does before I go crazy with installing auxiliary fans. I will admit that crossed my mind…
 

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2001 Insight Manual
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Today I upgraded the old tired Polk marine speakers in my insight to Infinity References. The kids are no longer painful to listen to, but the top end still seems to slip away at times. Perhaps I need to splurge on independent tweeters....

Also added sound deadening (cld tiles) and muffling (memory foam chunks in large Ziploc bags) to the rear around the battery compartment. I was careful to leave the vent inlet and outlet clear. Tomorrow I'll see how much of a difference filling the gaps behind the rear speakers makes for road noise.
 

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Finished the early stages of my triple 5v powersupply installation.

Car idles perfect at 14.9v with blower fan on max speed, AC on, lights on, and hazards blinking.

Cleanup and redoing wiring with thicker gauge is the next step. This first step was proof of concept and function.

Hood Automotive lighting Trunk Automotive tire Motor vehicle

Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Trunk Bumper


Bridge rectifier gets HOT at idle. Give the engine a buzz to around 2500 rpms, and the heat starts to go away. Idle just tries using too much amperage for this cheap chinese rectifier.

I have a spare to swap in if this one fails, and I also have a small cpu cooler heatsink to use to help out.


Does perfectly fine driving.
 

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Finished the early stages of my triple 5v powersupply installation.

Car idles perfect at 14.9v with blower fan on max speed, AC on, lights on, and hazards blinking.

Cleanup and redoing wiring with thicker gauge is the next step. This first step was proof of concept and function.

View attachment 98100
View attachment 98101

Bridge rectifier gets HOT at idle. Give the engine a buzz to around 2500 rpms, and the heat starts to go away. Idle just tries using too much amperage for this cheap chinese rectifier.

I have a spare to swap in if this one fails, and I also have a small cpu cooler heatsink to use to help out.


Does perfectly fine driving.
Realistically, with your smarts, you could probably attach a cpu all-in-one to it to keep it cool permanently. H50's and such can be had for ~25$ these days. Could wire the fans directly to 12v or add a resistor to keep the pump/fan speed down, idk. Just a thought.
 
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