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Engine-Off-Coast
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Let us know how that window sealer holds up for the wet seatbelt fix. I've tried both silicone and polyurethane and not had good results.
 

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2002 Monte Carlo Blue CVT
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Passed NJ state inspection this a.m. I had been sporting a 1457 code, but I pulled fuse 16 to reset. I suspect monitor was not ready, but I am guessing I could have one monitor not ready and still pass.
 

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Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting
Car Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting


Interior delete. lol

This is a pretty trashed Insight I'm K24A4 swapping. The interior was horrendous and ended up molding. Engine still runs though. 277k with damn near every little problem these cars can have, but still runs like a top...
 

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Are you saving the seats or disposing of same. Tan or gray seat covers? In good shape? I may need some tans.
They're tan and I'm holding onto them for the time being.

Passenger seat is decent. Driver seat is fairly worn.

They also molded once. I thoroughly cleaned them with concrobium and vinegar/water running through a Bissell little green... but now that that's happened, there's always a chance it could come back.

TL;DR: I would not buy these seats if I were you.
 

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Picked up race fuel for a very special car my friend is in current possession of.



Probably the silliest photo I've taken: An Insight getting fuel while it has a five-gallon can of race fuel inside the cargo area.



The very special car:

 

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2000 Silverstone G1- 200k miles
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342 Posts
Let us know how that window sealer holds up for the wet seatbelt fix. I've tried both silicone and polyurethane and not had good results.
Have you tried automotive RTV silicone? I find it to stick alot better than bath and kitchen silicone and other sealants meant for home materials rather than painted and cleared aluminum body.
 

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Have you tried automotive RTV silicone? I find it to stick alot better than bath and kitchen silicone and other sealants meant for home materials rather than painted and cleared aluminum body.
Might this work? The web site indicates bonding to nylon (which apparently is what the clips are made of, according to the packaging, and aluminum - but painted aluminum? https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b5005281015/ 3M™ Scotch-Weld™ Nylon Bonder Structural Adhesive
 

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2000 Silverstone G1- 200k miles
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Might this work? The web site indicates bonding to nylon (which apparently is what the clips are made of, according to the packaging, and aluminum - but painted aluminum? https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b5005281015/ 3M™ Scotch-Weld™ Nylon Bonder Structural Adhesive
That's probably overkill. That's similar to the stuff that hyper cars use instead of bolts to secure panels onto cars. It's an adhesive instead of a sealant.
 

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2000 MT
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Picked up race fuel for a very special car my friend is in current possession of.



Probably the silliest photo I've taken: An Insight getting fuel while it has a five-gallon can of race fuel inside the cargo area.



The very special car:

I'm still flabbergasted that a guy in PA was able to convince VW to let that car come over here, insane.
 

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2000 Silverstone G1- 200k miles
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I wonder if a primer on the paint to bond and/or a primer on the nylon part, and an epoxy that bonds either directly to the part or to the primer would work.
I mean, if someone wants to use an adhesive/epoxy they're more than welcome to. I just think it's overkill. Personally never had problems with RTV sealants not sealing to things unless fuel was involved. When I used to mess around with 2 stroke engines, we used Hondabond or similar sealants since it had to be fuel/oil proof and airtight
 

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I mean, if someone wants to use an adhesive/epoxy they're more than welcome to. I just think it's overkill. Personally never had problems with RTV sealants not sealing to things unless fuel was involved. When I used to mess around with 2 stroke engines, we used Hondabond or similar sealants since it had to be fuel/oil proof and airtight
RTV failed for me. The bond was ephemeral. In gasket situations, the sealant is held in place with a compressive force over a large surface area.

Here, the interface between the sealant and the clip / body is unsupported; the sealant itself provides part of the structure. Without a true bond, it can delaminate and fail. I've seen this in previous attempts to address this on my car and on a window molding that an installer took a shortcut with and "secured" with windshield caulk. It separated easily when I removed the molding. I was lucky. We've had several posts where people are seeking new moldings because their old ones departed. I lost one that I thought was secure using non-latching clips, done because I needed the molding to be removable. The wind force at highway speeds, particularly in rain, is significant.

I'm trying to find something that is designed to make an actual bond with the nylon, because it is designed to and a bond with the paint for the same reason, and is strong enough to survive thousands of miles of vibration. This is a difficult ask.
 
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