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Washed it and took it to a local cruise night. Only the 2nd Japanese car there (Miata). Two British (both Lotuses). Rest was Detroit iron (or fiberglass - lots of Corvettes).
 
Cheating a little bit here. No car work, but I joined Insight Central exactly three years ago to the day. I was on the site for two years plus before I acquired my first and only complete, driveable Insight.
 
I gathered as much, but I don't speak double e. What I know about electricity could be written on the inside of a matchbook with room to spare. Plus, neither X nor Y axis are labeled which makes interpretation challenging.
 
Got it (the new-to-me 5 spd) titled and registered, got plates and started grid charging with a Maxx Volts grid charger (included in purchase) at 10:15 a.m. @ 159 V, now (7:40 p.m.) at 174 V. Started at 271 mA rate, now at 258 mA rate. Probably 82°F here now. Charger and IMA fans running.

Been at 174 V since 7:40 p.m. (now 9:10 p.m.) and steady at 258 mA charge rate.

It will likely rain tonight and the rear hatch is cracked enough to allow an extension cord in. If I am going to charge it until it stops rising, can I break off the charging overnight and pick up for another 12+ hours tomorrow, or is there some reason the charging should be uninterrupted?

Plus the meter on the grid charger has no decimal places, so I don't really know whether the charge has stopped rising. Any suggestions other than get another charger with a better meter?

Left it on overnight due to the black 🐻 (wife forgot to bring in the sunflower seed bird feeder a/k/a bear snack dispenser).

Grid charger @177 V and 274 mA charge rate at 5 a m., so nearly 19 hours after first beginning. Charger will stay on for a while longer.

178V @ 262 mA at 7 a.m. (after 21 hours) so it will stay on the grid charger a bit longer.

178 V @ 258 mA at 12:30, so 26 hrs. 15 min. in.
 
I don't have discharge capability right now. I'm either going to have to remove the Maxx Volts harness and replace with Prolong Harness, or make and fit a light bulb discharger.

Also, the Maxx Volts has no decimal places in the voltage read out, so if it is increasing by hundreds or tenths (or stable), I have no way to judge and yes, it is a little warm here.
 
Changed engine air cleaner (needed). and spark plugs (dumped Densos for correct Honda Bs). The gap on the replaced plugs was probably 2x spec. The plugs were also loose in the head (all three). Here's hoping MPGs improve.
 
Found out from my local mechanic, who pressurized the cooling system for me, that it was leaking coolant from the oil cooler housing ('02 CVT has 2 coolant lines there). Will attempt fix Sunday.
 
91094
91095
Minor engine bay detailing step: the rubber on the battery hold down bar was cracked and deteriorating leading to rusting of the steel bar. I removed the rubber coating, soaked the bar in Evaporust over several days and finished with about six coats of rattle can plastidip.
 
As far as upping mileage -- check torque spec of spark plugs. They work themselves loose. Torque spec is 17 ft lbs. If mileage is poor, you may find them only hand tight.

Loose plugs can diminish mpg, as can non-Honda plugs.

Potenzas (tires) at 45 psi will give you a mileage boost.

Underbody aero panels are worth several mpg as well.

Foregoing A/C use will boost it as well.

As will pulse and glide driving technique.

On my only 5:speed, mpg is still climbing from pick up mileage of 36.7 to 42.3 and rising.

Dragging brake will kill mileage too.
 
Probably has something to do with the fact that the front driver's side caliper is essentially seized, to the point of barely being able to turn the rotor by hand when the car is jacked up, the IMA pack being dead, dead, dead and the prior owner taking frequent short trips and loving the A/C, not to mention having incorrect size, non low rolling resistance tires, so, yeah, it is possible, but, as noted, you do have to work at it. Oh yeah, the prior owner was running non Honda plugs that were basically finger tight in the head too. I am attributing mileage gains to correct plugs at proper torque, plus not using the A/C. Rebuilt calipers on the way. I imagine they will result in a significant mileage boost.

Prior owner was also unaware that brake fluid is a two year maintenance item, so never renewed the brake fluid. I'm guessing that produced the sticky calipers.

I suspect the passenger side front caliper is in similar shape.
 
Wept and gnashed my teeth over it. The water outlet reseal (separate thread) is an unpleasant, but necessary task. I discovered a perished flange on the small diameter coolant inlet pipe which has ground the project to a halt while awaiting replacements (small and large diameter).

On the plus side, all removed fasteners got the Evaporust treatment which they surely needed.
 
I changed the "o-ring" (really a gasket with filter screen) for the timing chain auto tensioner. It had been weeping oil down the back of the block on the passenger side. Pretty simple job. I got a good tip from Scott K., to use a thin coating of Hondabond on both sides of the metal gasket on reassembly.

Although probably unnecessary, I won't run the engine until tomorrow to let the Hondabond set up overnight (since the whole reason I did this was to cure an oil leak). I figured with oil involved, I should give it a little extra time.

This is a pretty trivial procedure. If you have that characteristic leak down the back of the block, there is really no reason to put off replacing that gasket.
 
Honestly, the most time consuming aspect of the timing belt auto tensioner gasket replacement is cleaning up the parts on removal and applying the Hondabond to both sides of the thin metal gasket.
 
Installed Scott's rear springs, changed driver side beltline molding with good used and washed and waxed with Meguiar's hybrid ceramic wax. Probably should have installed the grid charger harness instead, since I got an iIMA light on the test drive for the springs.

And, I see fresh oil down the back of the block after having done the timing chain auto tensioner reseal (well I know it isn't leaking from there).

I also recently replaced the valve cover gasket (it needed it).

So could oil there (on the passenger side rear) be evidence of a bad head gasket? If not, what else could it be? As far as I am aware, I don't have any other symptoms that might be associated with a head gasket leak. At least I don't think I do.
 
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