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Installed a new EGR valve gasket

Finished CVT Lean Burn conversion. This morning I got 77.7 mpg from home to work (8 miles one-way). Before conversion I used to get around 65-68 mpg. The car now has a light herky jerky. So I checked the spark plugs and discovered that they are not OEM :mad:. Ordered a set from Majestic today.
 

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Mine also has the slightest of herky jerky, only when in lean burn with background charge. So far it hasn't been bad enough to look into, and 99% of the time it is fine. Your mileage increase is impressive!

Sam
 

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Did this yesterday but didn't get around to posting.

Spent WAYYY too much time restoring my headlights
(forgot to take a before pic)
 

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Haha, it's clean. I just edited the photo to block out my plate number. I do see people around here all the time with black out shields over their plates a lot though, seems like they're always driving like an idiot too.
 

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installed a new instrument bezel to replace the old one that was broken :) - Broke the new instrument cluster replacing the old one :(
 

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Was having a noise and handling issue. Took off drivers side rear tire to find a broken bolt. Shout out to Feezin4 for coming out to help!
 

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I've been thinking about getting some of that tacky "carbon fiber" wrap, or even some vinyl, to cover my cracked bezel.
I recently cracked my bezel and fixed it. It came out quite well, I have not yet reinstalled it though so not sure if it will crack again in a different spot

Crack after bonding



some filler



taped and sanded



finished product

 

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Whoah those things can break?

I had the "blob" issue on my 2001 (I heard only 2001's get that problem??) and rhall had given me a spare cluster, so I replaced it and all is good, but my bezel didn't break.

I have to take it all apart again in the future to fix my trip and mph buttons, and I don't want to break the bezel if I do that. Are there any tips about how to make sure I don't crack it?


########

Back on topic:
- Oil and filter change (Mobil 1 0W20 same as last time)
- This meant I had to take off my KLR3CYL aluminum belly panel

When I originally put that panel on I had great difficulty, but the install video looked so simple. I figured it must be because I'm a newb with a socket wrench and some ramps while Scott has a modern garage and a lift and a screw gun.

Anyway, upon removal of the panel I noticed that the front two brackets from the radiator to the panel were all bent out of shape. I had bent them into proper shape before installing them, but upon closer inspection I may have installed them backwards. I bent them back to the proper shape using some wrenches, and installed them in a 180° rotation from how they were on, so now the arrow points towards the back of the car. After I was done the oil change it was much easier to reinstall the panel and it wasn't getting bowed as much as before.


Something else from the oil change:



When I got the panel off I saw this weird residue near my Fumoto valve. Anyone know what this is, and if it is a sign of something needing to be fixed? I love fixing stuff.
 

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The residue is most likely oil, right? put some on your finger and smell it to confirm. It doesn't look like much, was there any oil on the panel you took off? If you spill a little when filling the oil, it can creep all the way down the back of the block in that pattern. Just check your oil level for a while to be sure you're not leaking any and you don't have a problem.
 

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You have the "Fumoto" valve installed 180 degrees wrong. PLEASE INSTALL CORRECTLY!

Willie
 

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I put the Fumoto on last year, that's the orientation it went in, I don't think there's anything I can do about that. I was afraid of breaking the oil pan if I tried to tighten it more. Back in the winter when I installed the aluminum panel I did affix a piece of coroplast to the aluminum belly pan, between it and the Fumoto valve, so no damage occurred to either.
 

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This has me thinking, on a stock Insight, what panels if any have to be removed to drain the oil? I've never done my own oil change on the Insight like I used to with my Mustang as my school did my first one and Honda gave me a free one last year.
 

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I put the Fumoto on last year, that's the orientation it went in, I don't think there's anything I can do about that. I was afraid of breaking the oil pan if I tried to tighten it more. Back in the winter when I installed the aluminum panel I did affix a piece of coroplast to the aluminum belly pan, between it and the Fumoto valve, so no damage occurred to either.
Rather than tighten it more, put a washer on it.

This has me thinking, on a stock Insight, what panels if any have to be removed to drain the oil? I've never done my own oil change on the Insight like I used to with my Mustang as my school did my first one and Honda gave me a free one last year.
Just one of the plastic underbody panels. It's held on by a few bolts.
 

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Did rear brakes today:

New shoes, cylinders and hardware kit. Reused drums... had them machined. They were hard to remove as the original shoes had worn into the steel liner and made an edge that prevented easy pulling off of drum.
 
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