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Engine-Off-Coast
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Discussion Starter #1


I'm shamelessly copying this idea from the G1 section. Just post what you did to your ZE2 Insight.

Anyway, as you can see above I removed the front bumper. The previous owner ate the curb at some point and there was a big indentation on the passenger side. I pushed it back out and got it mostly back into shape.




The scratches look terrible, but the right corner is shaped properly again. Compare it with this picture:



I also put in LED side marker lights.
 

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Looks great Natalya! Great idea with this thread, I was considering it myself. Hopefully someone will sticky it.

I also have recently joined the dual generation Insight club. Last Saturday, I charged the 12v battery, troubleshot the ABS system, and got the multiple warnings to clear. Also did my first oil change. CVT fluid change is next, along with new proper wheels and tires, and TPMS sensor install. Oh, and I also gently broke into my own car. https://goo.gl/photos/awHh5j2B71DW28169
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)


So last weekend I changed the CVT fluid and both filters.




You need these items, plus a new gasket (not shown) for the pan. The little package top left is an o-ring for the new internal filter, turns out a new one of those comes on new internal filters, so I didn't need it. Here's the part numbers:

25430-PLR-003 (External Filter)
25420-RBL-003 (Pan Filter)
90471-PX4-000 (Washer)
21814-RPS-000 (Gasket)




The external filter is easy to get done first since it's easy to get at.




Then you drop the pan. The pan has fluid in the bottom even if you drain for a while, so do like I did here and leave two bolts half-way in to catch the pan. It was stuck pretty tight at first, but I took a wrench and lightly tapped all around the corners and kinda tried to wiggle it. The tapping noise would change as the gasket got loose at a given corner. Eventually it came off. Don't pry at it with a screw driver or paint scraper, there's no need, gentle tapping will get it to release.

From what I've read here, you don't have to do the internal filter each time, but the car is new to me and I don't know how the PO treated the car, so out of caution I went and did this.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)


The fluid was pretty close to black. Gross.




I also cleaned up the magnets. There are 3 inside the pan, and then this one attached to the drain bolt. The ones inside the pan snap out pretty easily.




New filter in place, about to put the bolts in. The two bolts it uses are black so you won't confuse them with the pan bolts. I wish I had a photo of it, but the old filter was totally gray inside, nothing like the yellow seen here on the new one.




Everything is back together.

My only tips are tapping on the pan and using carb cleaner to remove the old gasket from the pan. I don't have photos, but the old gasket was stuck pretty good in some places. Carb cleaner and a rag and a lot of patience got the job done.


On refilling with new CVT fluid, I do want to mention the FSM says 3 quarts, but with the pan drop for me I ended up using 3.75 quarts. I don't think the manual accounts for the extra you lose if you drop the pan and replace the internal filter. I might have been okay with 3.5 quarts, I need to check the dipstick when I get to work tomorrow. But originally I tried 3 like the manual says and it was low.
 

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Picked up a set of stock 15" wheels, but haven't decided on tires yet.

Also fixed the accessory port, which had no power. Used the service manual to determine how to remove the panel (pry gently from upper right edge with a trim tool), then discovered the ground terminal had no continuity to the inner barrel where the accessories plug in. Very strange, as I had ground and positive power at the connector itself and I didn't expect to find the socket itself bad. I scraped up the terminal and the barrel a little, then soldered a jumper.

 

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whatever tire u get just dont get the stock 2010-11 size of 175 65 15 ... i got a zero plus upgrade of 185 65 15 that fits on the stock steel rims fine and feels a lot better on the road ... other users report 195 60 15's are good too on the stock rims and are even better handlers

and yes, theres plenty of extra room in the wheel wells for the bigger sneakers
 

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whatever tire u get just dont get the stock 2010-11 size of 175 65 15 ... i got a zero plus upgrade of 185 65 15 that fits on the stock steel rims fine and feels a lot better on the road ... other users report 195 60 15's are good too on the stock rims and are even better handlers

and yes, theres plenty of extra room in the wheel wells for the bigger sneakers
Won't this affect fuel efficiency? Also a closer upgrade would be 185/60R15 for you.

Edit: I see what you meant now. Now that I am researching more closely, it looks like Honda changed the stock size to 185/60R15 in 2012. I wonder if they changed because of American's preference for handling over mileage or for some other reason. My wife would also probably appreciate better handling, so I am thinking the above advice is the way I will go. Costco seems to have a good deal going on the Ecopias right now.
 

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Last Friday I got Bridgestone Ecopia 185/60R15's installed on the new/used wheels, and the TPMS sensors all synced up by Discount Tire. It took 2 shops to get the procedure right, but they got it work. I can verify that these work with our vehicles:

$46 for all 4 new TPMS sensors. 4 x New TPMS Tire Pressure Sensor for HONDA Odyssey 42753-SNA-A830-M1 | eBay

Install kits:
8 delivered for $21.65.
Autopartsandstuff.com - Search

Also realized radius seat lug nuts in a complete set are not stocked by any of the big name auto parts stores in town. Found them at a 2nd Discount Tire store, who was also able to sync up the TPMS for me finally and the car stopped beeping at me incessantly. $40 for 16 lug nuts.

Saturday I washed and waxed the new beast. Still need to go get a spare from the dealer I got it from - haven't had time to go back across town for it yet. Also need to adjust the passenger door up at the hinges because I have a nice air leak and noise over there. Seems to be about 1/8 inch low at the front edges. Looks like I need to remove the fender to get at the bolts, so that is a project for another day.
 

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Went to my winter storage of the two insights. Both started instantly. rand them for a few minutes to get a coat of engine oil on the engine surfaces. Shut them down then recovered them. Awaiting April so I can put them back on the road.
 

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So last weekend I changed the CVT fluid and both filters.




You need these items, plus a new gasket (not shown) for the pan. The little package top left is an o-ring for the new internal filter, turns out a new one of those comes on new internal filters, so I didn't need it. Here's the part numbers:

25430-PLR-003 (External Filter)
25420-RBL-003 (Pan Filter)
90471-PX4-000 (Washer)
21814-RPS-000 (Gasket)




The external filter is easy to get done first since it's easy to get at.




Then you drop the pan. The pan has fluid in the bottom even if you drain for a while, so do like I did here and leave two bolts half-way in to catch the pan. It was stuck pretty tight at first, but I took a wrench and lightly tapped all around the corners and kinda tried to wiggle it. The tapping noise would change as the gasket got loose at a given corner. Eventually it came off. Don't pry at it with a screw driver or paint scraper, there's no need, gentle tapping will get it to release.

From what I've read here, you don't have to do the internal filter each time, but the car is new to me and I don't know how the PO treated the car, so out of caution I went and did this.
How much did that cost in parts alone? Considering to do filter changes as the car is nearing 100k right now.
 

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Went to my winter storage of the two insights. Both started instantly. rand them for a few minutes to get a coat of engine oil on the engine surfaces. Shut them down then recovered them. Awaiting April so I can put them back on the road.
You should run ur cars at least one time per month so the im battery doesn't die!!

That is mentioned in the owners manual
 

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Engine-Off-Coast
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
How much did that cost in parts alone? Considering to do filter changes as the car is nearing 100k right now.
$93 shipped from Majestic Honda. Would have been $91 if I hadn't bought that extra o-ring by accident. That price doesn't include CVT fluid, which I got at the dealership.


You should run ur cars at least one time per month so the im battery doesn't die!!

That is mentioned in the owners manual
Bazzetta was in the wrong thread, he's talking about his G1 Insights.


################




Today I hit 88888 miles.
 

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Added some LEDs

Replaced the trunk light and dome light with some LED grids yesterday.

Here's the pair I ordered from Amazon.

The clear plastic cover for the trunk light no longer fits, but it looks fairly OEM to the untrained eye.




It just barely fits in the dome light, but is super bright. I'll snap a photo tonight and edit this post.



EDIT:



Night shot. Super bright even with 50% tint on the front windows and 35% on the back.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I'm wondering if there is a smaller grid that might fit the trunk. These grids are the best though. I put one in the dome light of each of my Insights. For the G2, like you mentioned, the dome is a very tight fit. What I did was I took some scissors and I trimmed about 2mm off of one of the long sides, being careful to NOT hit the wires (if you look up close you can see where they are). Trimming it that way made it sorta snap into the dome. It's way brighter inside the car now, I couldn't recommend this upgrade more for anyone else considering it.
 

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There are smaller grids, like the one I have under the doors.

EXes over here come with under door lights, which as OEM provide so much light that you can actually see some light is coming out there when it is very dark.
I put narrow LED grids in them so I can see what is on the ground before I step on it.
 

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Yeah, for the dome light I trimmed off the thick 3M-esque adhesive from the back of the grid. Gave me a little more wiggle room, but not much. I was actually able to stuff the trunk LED grid behind the removable panel, but the clips from the clear lens extend too far back to reinstall it. I thought about trimming them down, but decided against it.

Maybe I'll consider a smaller grid in the future, but I was pretty happy with the dual pack I got on Amazon for 8 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17


Yesterday I replaced my reverse lights and rear side-marker lights with LEDs. In the above photo the left one has been replaced, while the stock bulb is in the right. It's pretty bright outside, so it's hard to tell, but the LEDs are way brighter than the stock bulb.




This is one of the new reverse LEDs in the housing, it's a large boxy rectangular thing.




The rear side-marker light is seen here slightly above the rest of the stock LED fixtures. For this I used a red LED.




These are the packages, I got them off of Amazon.

The new reverse lights are wayyyy brighter than stock. I reversed down the driveway last night and even from the top of the driveway, about 120 feet away, that whole side of the house was illuminated, along with the driveway itself. The red side-markers are also brighter than stock, but not to the same degree. At this point, if I turn the knob to the first position, only LEDs are being used.
 

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What did I do my Insight today? I smashed my mirror on a pillar when reversing out of a parking garage....

Luckily I was able to find a painted one from a wrecked car on ebay for $50.

At least I didn't scratch the body.
 
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